Marrakesh is a charismatic city at the foot of the Atlas Mountains. Here you can still meet a Berber herbalist selling lizards' gizzards as a Moroccan Viagra. But there are also Internet Cafes, German bath taps and BBC World. Accommodation standards have soared recently, particularly in the very fashionable riads, chic conversions of traditional merchant's houses. Moreover the authorities have stamped down on the hassle from shop-touts and guides, formerly a real plague in the souq. The focus for holidays in Marrakech is the Jemaa El Fna, the famed central square, a theatre of North African tradition and superstition full of snake charmers and toothpullers. By night the square becomes one giant restaurant. Marrakech’s souk was described by Churchill as 'the most beautiful place in the world'. Its narrow ancient streets still constitute an assault course for the senses: colours and spices, shoes and clothes, food and drink, arts and crafts - some of which you might recognise from Europe’s trendy interior design shops. Marrakesh is a great place to start excursions up into the Atlas Mountains, where the last few years have seen the opening of upmarket and rustic hotels. From here the emphasis is on walking from one mountain village to the next, stopping en route for glasses of mint tea.
Romantic short breaks
Adventurers
Unofficial guides - occasionally you will be approached by someone volunteering to practice his English. Ultimately his main motive will be to get you into shops that will earn him commission. Sometimes, however, it can be worth having such a 'guide', if just to discourage the others.
Several Marrakech hotels offer day-long cookery courses for guests and outsiders. But don't eat with your left hand; locals consider it unclean.
Bring a spare suitcase. Moroccan crafts are irresistible - and substantial.
In the winter Marrakech is generally warm and sunny with average day time temperatures in the low 20°sC, but nights can be cold – especially from November to February. The hottest months are July and August when temperatures can reach the high 30°s C /95°F plus.
Flights to take Marrakech from the UK take about three hours
Driving is on the right. Car hire is not advisable because road-signs are minimal and traffic erratic. Best to get a car with a driver, for a small extra fee. You don’t need your own car for getting around Marrakech.