History, culture and amazing cuisine - a twin city stay in the Basque country
Travelling in early October, we knew that we might have been taking a bit of a gamble with the weather, but could not have been more surprised, with every day hitting the high 20s and early 30s. And there was plenty of sunshine.
Bilbao
Our first port of call was to the largest city in Basque country – Bilbao. The first thing that strikes you as approach the city, is the enormous hills that surround it. Whilst the city centre is relatively flat, if you are staying out towards the suburbs, then you need to be prepared to do a bit of uphill walking. However, this is where Bilbao’s excellent transport system steps in. With an extensive metro, bus and tram network, if the pavement pounding has left your feet in need of a little rest, then head for the underground and for less than 50 pence, you can travel from one side of the city to the other.
We stayed in a lovely hotel about 15 minutes uphill from the Casco Viejo, Bilbao’s atmospheric old town, and in my opinion the most fascinating part of the city. The old town is a maze of charming streets, with quirky shops, markets, including what was once the largest indoor market in Europe, and my favourite, plenty of pintxos bars, restaurants and cafes. If you've overdone the pintxos and rioja, then this is another bonus of the fantastic metro system in easing your journey home.
“Pintxos” are the Basque equivalent of tapas, and bar hopping around this part of town is great way to sample these tasty little snacks, washed down with a lovely glass of local ‘vino tinto’, and all on offer at a great price. We tried all sorts of prawn, chicken, fish, chorizo, olive dishes, with so many ways to serve them. And there are also plenty of fantastic, more formal, restaurants serving traditional Basque food if you are looking for something more substantial.
Once you have thoroughly explored the Casco Viejo, one of the other must-sees of Bilbao is the famous Guggenheim Museum, with its striking modern design set by the river, and world-renowned for its collection of modern artworks. It’s incredibly popular, so make sure you plan your visit. Even if modern art is not your thing, just explore the building and its surrounds. It’s well worth the effort. The joys of Bilbao are not just confined to the city centre. As it was particularly warm, for a bit of fresh air and some spectacular views of the city, we took the funicular up to the summit of Mount Artxanda, where you can feast upon exceptional views, take in some lovely walks, and perhaps a few more pintxos
Finally, if time allows, and for the cost of around £1, take the metro out to the north-west of the city, where you will find some lovely urban beaches, and quaint little villages like Algorta, where we had a delicious lunch of spicy mussels, calamari and ham & cheese croquetas, washed down with fabulous local wine. It was lovely to see so many locals just gathering for a coffee and a chat in the relaxed and friendly cafes dotted around
San Sebastian
After 3 busy days in Bilbao, we took the bus to Donostia-San Sebastian, around 65 miles to the east. The drive really showed you how mountainous, and beautiful this region is. The buses are very busy, though this might have been because we were travelling on the eve of a national holiday, but very cost-effective. It wasn't long before we were pulling into the compact city centre, full of hustle and bustle.
Known for its stunning architecture, beautiful beaches and world-renowned cuisine, San Sebastian has long been on my “Wish List” for a visit. And it did not disappoint. One of its main attractions is La Concha Beach, a crescent of golden sand, right in the city. With its beautiful promenade, it is a perfect place to soak in some rays, and then watch the sun set over the surrounding mountains.
At night, the city buzzes with a multitude of charming pintxos bars and restaurants crammed into every narrow street, all with their own unique slant on local Basque food, especially fish and seafood. There are 16 Michelin starred restaurants within a 10-minute drive of the city centre! Even if your budget doesn’t stretch to one of those, you will never be disappointed with any of the other humbler offerings.
If you can put down your fork for a minute, there are plenty of interesting museums and some magnificent Gothic churches to visit or walk along to the other end of the city to take the funicular to the top of Monte Igueldo, where you not only get unparalleled views of the bay and the city, but can amuse yourselves with old-fashioned fun fair rides and attractions. What's not to like about dodgem cars and rickety old roller-coasters? It is very enjoyable way to spend a few hours.
These two cities offer contrasting experiences, within an hour or so of each other, and 5 or 6 days would allow you to experience the modern dynamism of Bilbao, before chilling out on the beautiful beaches of San Sebastian, dining out on delicious pintxos and fantastic local wines. The flights there are inexpensive, and getting around the cities is easy and great value. Also, did I mention the food and wine? We’ll definitely be back!