Minarets, Markets and Mayhem - 4 Days in Cairo
We spent 4 days there in early December on our way back from a beach holiday in Hurghada. Weather wise it's a lovely time to visit, with daytime temperatures in the mid-20s and comfortable evenings to stroll around. Arriving in Cairo the first thing that strikes you is the crazy, seemingly random, though remarkably safe driving. It’s like bumper cars, without the actual bumping. They seem to have a sixth sense about how to avoid each other, and never lose their temper, just sit constantly pressing their car horns, whilst swerving in and out of the redundant lane markings. It takes a bit of getting used to, but as every driver says – ‘relax! It’s normal’
So where to stay? On the advice of a regular visitor, we were recommended to stay in the upmarket central area of Zamalek Island, a great location for getting out and about, with an abundance of cafes, restaurants and, if wanting something more familiar, upmarket western style hotels, where you can always find an ice-cold beverage.
Once settled in, our first wander out of the hotel made us really feel the vibrancy and liveliness of this city. People, cars, motorbikes, and brake-less bicycles came from every direction, though everyone was so friendly and welcoming. You can really sense their natural kindness and generosity, even to odd-looking strangers like us.
In three very full days in Cairo, we managed to visit all the must-see sights, such as the Great Pyramids at Giza, the Sphinx, the Cairo Tower, the Egyptian Museum of Cairo and even managed a small river cruise on the Nile to breathe in the city afloat. Of course, seeing the Pyramids for the first time is an awe-inspiring experience, and a real highlight, even whilst you try and dodge the local hawkers selling their tour guiding services. The Pyramids are the last remaining of the Ancient 7 Wonders of the World, and they really must be seen, just to wonder how on earth they were built over 4,000 years ago, without a modern crane or earth-mover available yet. Truly masterpieces of ancient engineering.
As a child I can remember the Tutankhamun Exhibition that came to London in the early 70’s, and to now see the famous golden mask of the boy-king, discovered in 1922 by British scientist Howard Carter, up so close it truly mesmerising. The Egyptian Museum houses over 50,000 extraordinary antiquities, from tiny intricate golden jewellery to mummified remains of the pharaohs and their elaborate sarcophagi. It is a unique, memorable experience.
On our final day we took the very modern Metro to visit the Khan Al-Khalili souk in Old Cairo. We chose to visit on a Friday, the Muslim holy day, and we did notice that our neighbourhood was a little quieter than usual. We soon found out why – everyone seemed to be at the souk, or at one of the mosques at the souk. It was amazingly busy and chaotic, but we couldn’t help but smile as we snaked our way through the narrow streets and alleyways, past the shouts of ‘welcome to Cairo’ as the traders lured us to their overflowing market stalls, with everything you can imagine for sale. When it became too much, we just took a seat at a street café with a refreshing mint tea, or remarkably strong local coffee, whilst practicing our haggling skills
After every sense had been battered, we found a lovely retreat at nearby Al Azhar Park. As it was a Friday the park was full of families picnicking, playing, and just generally relaxing in the calm, tranquil fresh air of this city centre park. Road trains full of lively youngsters singing and wanting to just say hello, processioned around the greenery. We grabbed a delicious kebab, sat on a bench, and watched the world go by, as well as the boisterous wedding parties all flocking in for photos by the lake.
Getting around is never an issue in Cairo. With the modern, low-cost Metro available, and the cheapest Uber taxis I’ve ever encountered just a tap on an app away, it was easy to travel, and it was far more comfortable to sit in the back of a taxi than try and walk. Eating was always a treat, whether in a street café, or one of the wonderful riverside restaurants. From Egyptian mezes of grilled vegetables, tasty koftas and delicious salads and sauces, you’ll never go hungry. I personally recommend trying the Beeja Restaurant at the top end of Zamalek. Sat on the banks of the Nile it is a great, buzzy place to watch the river life float by at night, as the lights of Cairo glimmer around you. The food was lovely, the service attentive and the waiters even played tricks on us. A great way to finish our trip
For me Cairo is one of the great cities of the world I have been lucky to visit. I can understand that it might not be to everyone’s taste. It is incredibly noisy, manic, and seemingly disorganised, but that all seems to add to its charm. The people are so friendly and welcoming; it always felt safe and secure. If you want to experience something so different, yet so close, please give Cairo a consideration. You won’t be disappointed….but take a deep breath first!