A Kefalonian Kaleidoscope - June 2017

Archana Nathwani on 26 July 2017
Planning on visiting Kefalonia in the future? The largest of the Ionian Islands, this mythical island is best known as the setting of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin and the birthplace of Odysseus. However, there is much to discover behind the abundance of postcard perfect images you have perhaps seen in travel brochures. Immerse yourself in the mythology and historical architecture of this unspoiled island, and you will feel like you are travelling back in time.

Opportunities for cycling, walking, windsurfing, riding and caving will keep the active busy. But if you prefer to explore in a more leisurely manner then regular pleasure boats make the short ‘hop’ over to the mythical Island of Ithaca or go ‘island hopping’ taking in Lefkas, Meganissi and Skorpidi (owned by the Onassis family). If you get hooked by seafaring then you can hire a small boat and take off to discover your own beach. By car you can drive between pine clad hillsides where monasteries dot the countryside or along scenic coastal routes stopping at picturesque harbours where yachts gently bob at anchor and pastel tinted houses line the quaysides.

Our recent summer holiday to this beautiful isle truly exceeded our expectation in many ways.

The island is a natural wonderland; home to wild horses that roam the natural park on the slopes of Mount Aenos, its highest mountain, and nesting ground to loggerhead turtles that come to bury their eggs in the soft warm sand of its beaches. There are underground lakes and limestone caves and all along its 250 kms of coast where azure sea meets limestone cliffs or pine clad hills in a wash of turquoise at an abundance of small undeveloped bays. Many of the long sandy south and east coast beaches have grown into small and sophisticated beach resorts but with no building over 3 stories permitted, tourism has been contained, maintaining a pleasant laid back atmosphere.

For those with an interest in the past, Kefalonia has a diverse history which can be explored in the Museum in Argostoli the capital and whilst there, the walk across the 900 m bridge to Drapano is a must or the short ferry ride across to the Lixouri peninsular from which you may be lucky enough to spot dolphins in the bay. Stop for a coffee or something more substantial at one of the tavernas on the elegant waterfront or amongst the palm tree lined streets. The Kefalonians themselves are known for their hospitality so wherever you go, you’ll be greeted by a hardly discernable nod of the head and a ‘yassou’ and very soon you’ll find yourself answering and relaxing into the Greek way of life.

One of the treasured landmarks of this island is the fortress of Assos, owing to its scenic and raised position. The quaint fishing village of Assos itself enjoys a laid back atmosphere, where you could quite easily sit in the traditional tavernas and watch small fishing boats come and go in the tranquil harbour all day long. The village is joined to the fortress by way of a narrow passage of land which connects the coast, and this trip between the two, through a trail of woodland, is quite simply overwhelming. And if this all becomes too hot, you can take a dip at a nearby famed beach, which features in the best-selling Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.

Undoubtedly a “must-see” in Kefalonia, it is the striking natural beauty of Myrtos Beach. Situated on the west coast of Kefalonia, and home to what can only be described as a kaleidoscope of colourful water, this beach also grants you the “must have” holiday photo. The beach itself is pebbled, offering inviting turquoise waters and endless views ahead across the Ionian Sea. But the best thing to do here is to view it from above, from the top of the cliffs and looking down towards the shimmering sea below. There is a windy road providing access to the bottom of the cliffs, and the beach itself, but do make sure you take appropriate footwear as the beach is made up of white marble pebbles.

Fiskardo - This picturesque port village is located in the north west of Kefalonia and features several charming 18th century buildings for visitors to explore. The harbour at Fiskardo is particularly pretty and this is a great place to sample freshly caught fish cooked in the traditional Greek style in excellent quayside tavernas.

Exploring the Caves makes a great day out from the sunbathing - visitors to Sami usually take the time to explore two local caves. Spili Melissani is situated just to the north of the town and can be reached by riding in a rowing boat on a partially exposed lake. The sun’s rays create a kaleidoscope of colours as they strike the water, giving the boat trip a magical feel. Follow the road leading from Sami along the eastern coast towards Argostoli and you will reach Drogarati Cave. This impressive cave is famous for its unusual collection of stalagmites and visitors are permitted to explore the cave alone. The main chamber of this cave is so large that it is often used to host special concerts!

This ‘gem’ of an island genuinely captivated us; it is perfect for those who enjoy a relaxing environment with stunning vistas and lovely countryside!