Enchanting Egypt. A jewel in the desert.
The Giza Necropolis is one such example of what humans can do at their best. There are many impressive structures in the modern world, but I would argue, none, not one, can be compared to the majesty of the Pyramids at Giza. To stand in front of the Great Pyramid – the only remaining one of Seven Wonders of the Ancient World – and not be humbled by its size, its ingenious design, and the knowledge that it was built as a way of simultaneously preserving and celebrating the dead would be to not be able to appreciate anything.
Add that it was built entirely by hand, by humans, 5000 years ago, and we could not help but simply stare, agape, marvelled by its magnificence.
The same astounded expression sat on our faces when we visited the Egyptian Museum. To see the intricately detailed, hand-sculpted golden sarcophagi of Tutankhamen, or the humble shoes that a King of the Ancient World wore, still intact and preserved was indescribable. It’s one thing to read about these things, but to look at them in person is a totally different experience.
The sentiment that lingered after visiting Cairo is that Egyptians are not only proud of their culture, but they genuinely want everyone else to love it as much as they do. The city has a certain character about it that can’t really be found anywhere else, be it from the unique smells and sounds of the bazaar (the infamous Khan-El-Khalili) to the local papyrus factory workers demonstrating how their ancestors introduced paper to the world, to their fantastic amalgamated past; a majestic Ottoman past mixed with Coptic Christianity, sprinkled with a good dash of Arabic passion.
Perhaps most charming of all was the way that drivers ignored all of the government’s efforts to modernise the traffic system, and drove at least six cars abreast. They’ve even developed their own vehicular language, communicating by horn; a couple of friendly toots to say hi to a friend, or a long, angry blast to tell a fellow driver that they are in the wrong.
One may think that the vibrant character of the city is lost to the Red Sea resorts and their paradisiacal nature, but actually, the desire to make foreigners feel welcome is echoed – if not amplified – by those in Sahl Hasheesh (near Hurghada).
Egyptian hospitality is worth specifically mentioning; nowhere in the last decade of holidaying have we experienced such incredible warmth and generosity from the locals. They defied any stereotype of Arabs and treated us like royals for our entire trip.
Of course, one of the primary reasons people visit the Red Sea is the reputation of its marine wildlife. Having been to plenty of beach resorts before this trip, notably the Maldives, my family approached the snorkelling with a touch of scepticism, ready to dismiss claims that Egypt offers some of the best oceanic experiences.
I am delighted to say that we were proved wrong, in truly stunning fashion. Believe all the hype about the Red Sea – on our first day alone we were lucky enough to see an octopus and a lionfish! On almost daily snorkels, we encountered spectacularly coloured fish and coral, including huge, vibrant parrotfish, a menacing, solitary barracuda, and blue-spotted stingrays, right under our feet. Perhaps the highlight of the trip was being caught totally unawares as a rarely seen eagle ray glided straight under us as we floated on the surface; majestic, elegant, and totally breathtaking. We were speechless – even the kind beachboy who offered to guide us on our trips didn’t quite know what to say. It was utterly magical.
In sum, both facets of this incredible country have proved to be as fascinating as each other, from the cultural heritage of Cairo to the serenity of the Red Sea. We can totally understand why people return again and again. I know we would…