Adventure in La Gomera
La Gomera, an orange shaped island without the mass infrastructure of its nearest neighbour, was the second stop on my Canarian adventure. I arrived at San Sebastian de la Gomera and picked up my hire car before driving the 40 minutes to where I was staying for the next six nights. The village of Agulo, is considered as one of the prettiest villages on La Gomera but to be fair to the other villages, they all have plenty of their own character. There were lots of local places to eat & drink, each with a slightly different take on La Gomeran cuisine and of course Canarian potatoes were pretty much a given.
The island is approximately 22 kilometres in diameter, rising to a peak of 1,487 metres at Alto de Garajonay. Driving around the island takes time and patience, and second gear soon becomes your new best friend. I must admit, there were moments when I wished that the romans had invaded but that’s part of the charm of this island. As the roads climb higher you reach a point of almost permanent cloud cover and mist. This results in a natural rainforest which receives up to 125cm of precipitation fall each year. This ecosystem was given UNESCO World Heritage status in 1986 and today the Garajonay National Park offers some amazing hiking trails with varying degrees of difficulty but all offering spectacular views of the island and other islands beyond.
Each day I headed off to a different corner of the island and the south of the island is where all you beach lovers should visit. Valle Gran Rey is the main resort on the island but a word of caution, if you are seeking the lively atmosphere of Tenerife, you’ll be sorely disappointed. This resort has a more laid-back approach to beach life with a smattering of restaurants, one or two shops selling nick-nacks and a couple of supermarkets. A resort has a long stretch of soft jet-black sand and as the sea lapped the shoreline it was like watching a video in monochrome. Playa Santiago, also on the south coast, is sleepier still but has a enticing atmosphere. The mountain villages of Hermigua, Vallehermoso & Alajero are worth a visit, each has its own character offering stunning views into the distance. As you drive around the island, remember to stop at the various Miradors for breath taking scenery. The capital, San Sebastian, with its colourful buildings is also worth exploring. It was from here in 1492, that Christopher Columbus made his last stop to collect provisions before setting sail for India only to discover the Americas.
The main highlight for me though, is Silbo Gomero. A unique whistled language created by the first settlers to communicate with each other along the ravines and valleys. It has been passed down through the generations and since 1999 is a compulsory subject in schools on the island and if you listen carefully, you may hear it whilst you are there.