South Africa The Garden Route - Cape Town to Shamwari
Cape Town is one of the most picturesque cities in the world and I’m glad that we had our first view of the city from Table Mountain. If you go – aim to do this in your first/second day as the cable car trip up the mountain is weather dependant. The view of the coastline, with white sand beaches and many hues of blue sea, Robben island and the city itself were stunning.
Cape Town is a great base as, from here, there is a huge amount of wildlife viewing experiences available – from African penguins at Boulders Beach, to whale (July – Nov) and dolphin spotting from the shore, and even diving with great white sharks. If you are not driving, there are trips to the Winelands also available.
We stayed at the Table Bay hotel, the largest hotel in Cape Town, and situated in the compact Waterfront area, connected to the V&A Waterfront mall. It is very easy to get about the centre of the city with plenty of restaurants, outdoor entertainment, shops and markets for the whole family to enjoy and has a great atmosphere. The rooms in the hotel have either a view of the mountain or the ocean, and the breakfast buffet is very extensive, with sparkling wine, oysters, fresh fruit and hot options.
Dinner in the Cape Grace hotel, the oldest hotel in the city, was a real treat, served in the Signal restaurant with the knowledgeable sommelier on hand to pair each dish with a superb glass of wine – our first taste of South African wine! Each hotel guest can choose a bottle of wine from the hotel’s cellar upon check in, which is a lovely and unique touch!
Cape and Peninsula Tour - We left the hotel at 8.30am for our full day tour of the Cape and Peninsula Tour, passing through Camps Bay and Clifton areas before travelling along the spectacular coastal route and then through the Cape Point Nature Reserve (photo stop at Cape of Good Hope compulsory) where we had our first view of baboons. Lunch at “Seaforth” in Simonstown was a great place to stop – you must try the fish. We could walk from there to the African penguin colony at Boulders Beach. It was amazing to see these funny creatures, which are an endangered species, enjoying running into the surf. They are threatened by commercial fishing practices and are preyed on by seals and sharks at sea, whilst their eggs and chicks are targeted by mongooses and seabirds on land. The final stop on the tour was the tranquil Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, a popular spot for picnics set against the Eastern slopes of Table Mountain, with a fabulous canopy walkway through the treetops.
Our next hotel for the night was the Leading Hotels of the World “The Twelve Apostles” – overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The terrace of the Azure restaurant is a perfect viewpoint for sunset and the African tradition of “sundowners”. The hotel has a modern, bright feel, with each room individually decorated – this hotel is very proud of their impeccable service and generous hospitality, as well as being very family friendly. I loved the concept of “tiny noticeable touches” where the staff will go out of their way to look after guests in as personal a way as possible.
There is a lovely spa built into the hillside, which makes the spa experience very atmospheric! There is a complimentary shuttle service to the Waterfront area as well as Camps Bay, giving easy access to the attractions and restaurants in these areas.
From Cape Town we then went on to stay at Franschhoek which is quieter than the neighbouring Stellenbosch. We visited Boschendal Wine Estate where generations of families have worked. We took a cycle tour of the land and a spot of wine tasting too! Alternatively, there’s a famous tram service takes you along several local estates where you pay a small fee at each to sample an array of wines, with about an hour at each estate. Then you simply hop back on and head to the next one!
Onwards along the Garden route, we next stopped at the unique town of Hermanus famous for whale watching and stayed overnight at my personal favourite Grootbos. This luxury eco reserve is tucked between mountains, forest and the sea, with 2500 hectares of wilderness and a huge array of plant species. From here we experienced the best whale watching along the coast, a truly magical experience!
Our next stop was Knysna and then onto the beautiful Lairds Lodge Country Estate in Plet Bay, which is a Cape Dutch style homestead set on a 24-acre estate and delivers first class hospitality. Food and wine at Lairds offer exceptional and delicious choice…just watch out for monkeys! A visit to Elephant Sanctuary just across the road is worth a visit, where you can feed and touch these great animals too. Another option would be also to stay at Tsala Tree lodge which again is another unique stop along the Garden Route.
Our final stop was at the amazing Shamwari Game Reserve whose name means “my friend.” There are 6 lodges here plus 1 explorer camp, each provides a distinct experience. I stayed at Long Lee Manor which overlooks the magnificent plains for 2 nights, I also visited Eagles Crag, Riverdene, Bayathe whilst there too. Included are 2 game drives per day, either first thing at 6am or afternoon (around 4pm). Vehicles are comfortable and open which gives you a truly panoramic view of seeing the Big 5. The rangers and guides are passionate about wildlife and very knowledgeable, enabling you to have an unforgettable experience…which I certainly did!
Another must visit at Shamwari, is their Born Free Big Cat Rescue, in partnership with Shamwari Private Game Reserve, which operates two sanctuaries within the Private Game Reserve, for lions and leopards rescued from zoos, circuses and other captive facilities. The bush enclosures at Shamwari give the lions and leopards the space and privacy they so desperately need and is a truly moving experience.