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My Travel Diaries

The search for Tir na nog

Tuesday 6th October 2009

5 Stars

There is a land, far off the western coast of Ireland, that is populated by people that have eternal youth. To them, happiness lasts for ever. It is an island that you can only reach if you are invited. This is the mythical land of Tir na nog. To me, you do not have to travel further west from the coast of Ireland to experience a peaceful, happy and beautiful land, where pleasurable pursuits and music all interact.

Ireland is a green island. It is so beautiful. There are so many lovely places in the world and life is not long enough to see them all. Ireland has wild places, mountain ranges, boggy plateaux, limestone scenery rich in wild flowers, lonely wooded valleys and stunning sea cliffs; empty white beaches, blue loughs and tumbling peaty rivers. If it's fishing you want, you need go no further.

I have visited this wondrous land many times. It is so close and yet so different. The people, the culture, the tradition, the spirit and the soul of the place, is unique. The music has its own warmth and character. The countryside is familiar yet, somehow, of its own time. It feels old and steeped in history. Memories haunt the hills, bogs and empty stone cottages. It is of course a divided island. It has had more than its fair share of wars and disasters. The relaxed good humour of the people, however, makes it a great place to visit.

I used to rent a cottage on the west coast, again, in Kilala village. An open fire and a dog-friendly property was essential. I love County Mayo, County Sligo and Galway as well. If you want music, go to Clare, where you can also visit the Burren, a rocky limestone plateau, full of rare alpine plants. In Clare, there are also the awesome Cliffs of Moher. Some of the tallest sea cliffs in Europe, they lay just north of the resort of Lahinch and are famed for their majesty, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and the huge waves of Aill na Searrach. Or there's Crab Island, just outside the harbour of Doolin, just a little further up the coast, a fabulous surfing break.

This time I stayed in the small fishing village of Easky in County Sligo. We travelled all along the northern shores of Sligo and Mayo, through the boglands, out to the far West, where the beaches are white and the Atlantic is blue. It's changing though, there's now even a Tesco in Ballina!

I also love the mountains. My dog loves it as well. Sure it rains a lot - that is why it is so green. It only rains for a while, as the clouds drift in from the Atlantic and then the clouds part and the sun shines through. Take your wet weather gear and get out there.

Croagh Patrick rises immediately to the south of Clew Bay, to a height of 2,500 feet. You can climb using the stony Pilgrim's Track, which starts at sea level. I took my dog and two young sons. On a clear day, the panorama unfolded from the summit, and is one of the finest in all Ireland. There is a chapel right on the summit. Ireland's most holy mountain and named after the patron saint, has been a mecca for pilgrims who, often barefoot, make penitence by getting to the summit in the honour of Saint Patrick. He spent 40 days in AD441 on the mountain, fasting and praying for the Irish. You can get up and back within a couple of hours (wearing a good pair of boots!!) and there's a welcome restaurant at the base. Another good trek is up the even higher Nephin, quite close by.

The music, the literature, the landscape, the architecture, the Celtic heritage, the fishing, the Guinness and the general feeling of warmth and welcome, are unique and are all great reasons to make the journey to our close neighbour.

It is easy to get there, either for the weekend or a longer duration. Fly from a local airport, to any one of a half dozen or so airports, all over Ireland. Drive across from Wales or Scotland, using one of the fast ferries. Take an organised coach tour, a fly drive, a city break or, just rent a cottage or book a hotel and tour around. You will not regret it.

They say "Cead mile failte" - 100,000 welcomes... and they mean it.

Contact Keith on 0845 058 8029 for up to date prices on flights and accommodation

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