Winter in Istanbul
We arrived accompanied by a small flurry of snow to a picturesque and largely tourist-free Istanbul. I'd not really known what to expect from the anticipated 'East meets West' location - for some reason I'd got it in my head that mainly meant West! On the journey into the city itself (via train and tram) we got to see the heady mix this meant - conference centres and business hotels near the airport giving way to incomprehensible signs in Turkish and countless minarets.
Our hotel was in Sultanahmet, location of the vast majority of the famous sights and the best place to stay for a long weekend. If you're thinking of doing the same, then the must-see sights are the Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace but there are many other experiences near the top of the list. Sights can get busy on Sundays when the Turkish come and join the tourists. I've listed below when things are closed.
From our base we visited Aya Sofya (closed on Mondays) and the Blue Mosque on the same day. Since its construction in the 6th century the Aya Sofya (Hagia Sofia) has served as an Eastern Orthodox cathedral, followed by a Roman Catholic cathedral, then as a Mosque for nearly 500 years before becoming a museum in the 1930s. You can't help but gasp when you first enter the building and look up - to think that such a huge dome has been standing for nearly 1500 years is nearly as impressive as the mosaics and marbles.
The Blue Mosque (actually the Sultan Ahmet Camii if you're struggling to find it on your map) is so-called because of the blue tiles lining its interior. It's been a mosque since the 17th century and only worshippers can enter during prayer times, so try to plan your visit accordingly. It's particularly beautiful to photograph the exterior as the sun sets from the park whilst listening to the calls to prayer.
If the weather's against you, this is the day to visit these two wonderful buildings. You can always drop into the Basilica Cistern if you're getting a bit chilly - this original water storage tank seems to retain heat and is a fascinating place to get some eerie pictures and play spot the biggest fish.
You'll need at least half a day to visit the incredible Topkapi Palace (closed on Tuesdays) and don't miss the Treasury. The Harem makes for an interesting addition although as you can buy a ticket once you're inside the main palace, so I'd see how your feet are feeling! The Palace was the opulent home of the sultans for the best part of 400 years and the wealth both within the Treasury (try to find something that's not jewel-encrusted) and in the incredible decoration of the building itself is excessively apparent. I was particularly fascinated by the costume collection on display but there's something that catches the eye at every turn. It's also strategically located with especially wonderful views over the Golden Horn. As a fair bit of the palace and, of course, the grounds are open to the elements, a dry day is best for a visit.
Another fantastic experience is to take a wander around the bazaar district - the Grand Bazaar warrants its own map as there are areas dedicated to different goods, especially carpets, jewellery, gold, copper and leather, alongside the obligatory electronics and market tat which seems inescapable. Not far away is the Spice Bazaar (head towards the Golden Horn) where you can marvel at the displays and varieties of the lokum (Turkish Delight). If you want the best, then you need to seek out Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekkir at Hamidiye Caddesi 83, running close to and parallel with the Golden Horn. The shop's been there since 1777 and it reminds me of an old-school pharmacy.
Of course this isn't everything to do in Istanbul. A cruise along the Bosphorus is a great option if the weather's behaving. Leaving from Eminonu and taking around three hours for the round trip, you'll see well-preserved summer retreats and fortresses. You can get on and off if you want to explore further. Another option are the city's many hamams. Some of these Turkish baths still operate in the original Ottoman buildings, such as Cagaloglu and Cemberlitas. Alternatively, try the modern version at any of the 5 star hotels offering the experience.
I have two dining experiences I would strongly recommend, although I'm veggie, so I'll have to take it from other authorities that this is the place to have a kebap.
Recommendation number one - if you've still got the energy after all of the walking you'll have done, hop on a tram to Karakoy on the other side of the Horn and take the funicular up the hill. Once you arrive on Istikal Caddesi you'll feel transported back to the West. This is the place to come for casual lokantas and meyhanelers (taverns) through to high-end, top-notch Anatolian cuisine and for pretty much everything in between. If you'd like a drink (and in some cases meal) with a view, then check out 5 Kat, 360, Mikla or (as I did) Leb-i Deyra (good luck trying to find it!). For a meal you'll probably have to book on Fridays/Saturdays but the view over to the old city is captivating.
The second recommendation is for when you really don't think you can go any further than your Sultanhamet hotel lobby. Try to make it to Cooking Alaturka - a cooking school run by Dutch-born Eveline Zoutendijk. She specializes in teaching and preparing wonderful local cuisine and you'll get a four-course meal. She can adapt it for pesky vegetarians like myself and the results were wonderful. You'll find her on Akbiyik Caddesi 72a and is well worth the visit. Try for lunchtime though as she's not always open in the evenings.
Of course there are many other foods to be sampled in Istanbul. I've already mentioned the infamous kebap and it is also renowned for its fish, so meat-eaters will be spoilt for choice.
Enjoy - and if you'd like to know more, please contact me!