Albergue life along the Camino Frances - part two
Sometimes it’s simply impossible to have managed to wash and then actually dry ones clothes the previous night. The cool evenings are not conducive to laundry drying, which inevitably means the following day your pack becomes somewhat of a clothesline... strategically placed socks, leggings and undies will dry quickly once the sun rises, but this does require a degree of indifference to the fact that you are indeed showing your smalls to the world. I’ve seen Y-fronts on hedges, socks strapped to walking poles and sports bras on backpacks - there is no shame: this is The Way.
The glorious site of another village looming! This promises much needed shade, cafe con leche, perhaps a delicious pastry as a cheeky little reward for reaching that point as well as a unique sello (stamp) in your pilgrims passport. The half crumbling, terracotta-roofed building with rustic doors hold so many memories; have seen so many things, of that I am certain. Locals; with their weathered, smiling faces, linger in the streets, chatting in an unintelligible regional language - well, to those with an ignorant ear anyway. Everyone so keen to wish a peregrino ‘buen camino’ (good walking) as we pass on by, perhaps boosting each tiny village economy by a euro or two throughout the day. Storks settle down in their humongous nests atop the ancient bell towers throughout each village along The Way. In the town square a fountain spouts a deliciously refreshing splash as the water hits the hot stone paved floor, reminding and tempting you to refill your bottle and rehydrate your body. Something which is critical to staying healthy for these weeks of walking westwards whilst the sun beats down relentlessly on the left hand side of your body ...
Bizarrely, food is of very little importance throughout the day. It’s almost like our bodies already have enough reserves to burn off without the requirement for extra calories! Having said this, as soon as I stop walking I am ravenous immediately; as if I haven’t actually eaten for a week. Sadly, as aforementioned, the food along the Camino Frances is proving to be somewhat of a disappointment, with the staple food group being carbohydrates. Primarily white bread and patatas (chips). Alongside this you may find an exciting inclusion of ensalada mixta (mixed salad) but other than that, pretty much anything of the deep fried variety.
The end of the walking day is nigh as we slope in to the albergue booked for this evening. Having assessed each toilet stop, food source and surface under foot along The Way, I am now also a connoisseur of rating establishments based on their WC amenities; basically the fundamentals of soap, toilet paper, a toilet seat and hand towels. Including the albergues, I am quite appalled by the lack of soap throughout and also the lack of use of the soap which is provided! After a concerted effort over the weeks, I can tell you that the best tortilla (Spanish omelette) is to be found at Meson de la Tortilla in Pamplona and that when considering the surface you walk on; if you have any possible means to avoid walking on tarmac, I’d strongly suggest you take it - even if it’s scuffing along the edge of the verge until the track changes course to grit and sand. The balls of your feet will thank you dearly!
That really sums up a typical day on Camino Frances, from dawn until dusk. If there are 4 things I’d recommend someone to take with them along The Way it’d be to make sure they have good earplugs (eg silicone flexible ones), carry at least one pole (great support for balance as well as knees on descents and hauling yourself up the hills!), have a multi USB adaptor (as generally there are limited plug outlets so this means more than just one lead can be plugged in simultaneously) and to have items in either colour coded dry bags or clear / freezer bags makes life so much easier for locating items!
Something you might fancy experiencing? Then what are you waiting for?
May you learn Spanish fast, And Spaniards speak slow.
May the storm clouds pass, For a buen Camino!