My weekend in Kraków
For far too long Krakow has had something of a reputation for attracting crowds of soon-to-be-married gentlemen on stag weekends, but it really does deserve better. Poland’s second city and former capital is upstanding and architecturally fine: the showpiece Wawel Castle has undergone major restoration since the country gained independence in 1918, while Rynek Glowny, supposedly Europe’s largest medieval city square, is truly an incredible feat.
During the Second World War, the Nazis made Krakow their home. While the rest of Poland was bombed, the old city was preserved. In their 70th year of liberation, the Auschwitz concentration camps make for an uncomfortable but worthwhile visit, for which you should put aside the best part of a day. The main site is about an hour from the city and is a lasting reminder of the Nazis’ depravity, the sheer scale of their extermination programme, and the lasting impact of the genocide on Poland’s population. Fortunately, Poland today is a happier place. So when you go, relive memories - painful, yet necessary, and take the chance to wander through a city that merits a better history than it has endured.
An idea of what you to do with your days:
Day One
On arrival, make for the main square and St Mary’s Cathedral. Inside, wander around this stunning building and marvel at the overall highlight; the pentaptych altarpiece.
With an absurd number of bars and ‘beer-houses’, try the Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa first – a 24-hour bar serving quince and plum vodkas within the newspaper covered walls. For more local atmosphere and cuisine, make your way across to Pod Aniolami restaurant where you really should try the wild boar with juniper berries whilst sitting in the 13th century cellar.
Day Two
On your first full day here, head to Wawel Hill, which has seat of Polish kings for over 500 years. The Royal Castle here is a magnificent Renaissance construction housing state rooms and private royal apartments with some of Poland’s most treasured works of art, including Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine, on display. Whilst up there, take a peek into Wawel Cathedral with its ice-cream scoop domes or one of the permanent exhibitions which are on-site.
Taking lunch in Krakow’s Jewish quarter will show another side to this city. With a ‘make hummus not war’ attitude, visiting Hamsa is a relaxing experience offering mezze platters, full mains or their traditional ‘laffa’ bread. The area of Kazimierz is home to the Old Synagogue – a striking example of the buildings that survived the war.
Making sure you have time in between to wander the streets and take in the wonderful atmosphere, cross the Vistula to Oskar Schindler’s factory which is just past the MOCAK contemporary art gallery. Although this museum may be unsettling, you will come away with a better sense of Poland’s situation in the Second World War.
It would be wrong to come all this way and not visit the famed chocolate shop of Krakowska Manufaktura Czekolady. It's an extraordinary display of cakes and hot drinks to warm you up after a full day out.
Although the restaurants around the main square have beautiful views, I feel that they are somewhat overpriced and food is not always reliable. If you are happy to walk 10 minutes south to Pod Baranem restaurant, you will be pleasantly surprised at the slick service and delicious food on offer.
Day Three
The Nazis renamed the small town of Oswiecim, 44 miles west of Krakow, as Auschwitz in their Germanisation programme of Poland. Here, they established a series of concentration camps, where at least 1.3 million people were deported. Today, visitors can see the original brick barracks at the Auschwitz I camp, and the bleak, terrible expanse of Birkenau. Displays include mounds of shoes belonging to the prisoners and 40kg of glasses, collected as plunder. Independent visitors must reserve tickets in advance to guarantee access. You may find it easier to book a tour, so we can discuss the options for you – including coach travel and guide.
A lovely last evening might be spent tasting some of the local beer then dining at Albertina Restaurant & Wine – Polish cuisine with a Mediterranean twist! Also, Albertina can boast Poland's only ‘Enomatic system’ of self-service wine dispensers, with a superb range of 32 wines to buy by the glass. Just make sure you can get up for your flight tomorrow!
My top tip for travel in Krakow? Watch your step! The streets are shared by cars, trams and buses, and jaywalking is an offence.
Enjoy your trip!