13 November 2023

One bucket list destination I was fortunate to visit was Antarctica, travelling in style on Scenic Eclipse, having flown from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia. Leaving Ushuaia we headed south to the Antarctic peninsular, where we found clear skies, placid waters, snowy cliffs and sea ice all around us. The ship offered various ways to enjoy the scenery. There were two helicopters on board for scenic flights and a mini submarine, to take guests beneath the clear waters, There were kayaks and zodiacs to explore the surrounding area on the water. Each morning we would awake in a different bay and spend a couple of hours ashore on an island or on the Antarctic mainland, in search of penguins and seals. We were taken ashore by zodiac, togging ourselves up each time we left the ship, with layer upon layer of thermal wear. We were provided with fisherman style waterproof rubber ‘muck’ boots which had to be scrupulously cleaned each time we boarded the ship. There were strict rules about cross contamination between landing sites. Expedition leaders and assistants would go ashore earlier with flags to mark out safe routes for us to follow. Any area that had a treacherous overhang, hidden by the snowy surface, was marked. Most of us chose to use ski poles to help our balance. Snow covered trails were either ankle deep in snow, or slippery. It was important too to keep to the marked route because criss-crossing our path were tracks made by the penguins as they made their way to their family groups. Penguins always had right of way. Unused to humans, it was clear they had no fear, as they waddled past us, sometimes tripping up and sliding on their bellies. Amongst the different species of penguin we recognised the Gentoo with their red lipstick beaks, and Chinstrap penguins, with black and white heads and a line of black under their beaks. The noise was deafening. Amongst them hungry skuas searched for any tasty eggs or chicks. Penguins weren’t the only wildlife on land of course. We saw a variety of seals, either perched on rocks, or laying in a slug-like heap on the shore. The smallest were the fur seals, who ambled along using their strong tail flippers and the largest were elephant seals, named for their size rather than for any resemblance to an elephant.. Weddell seals with pretty little faces congregated in small groups on other islands. We came across old huts, used as a refuge for anyone in need of shelter. Some had a flag outside.. A ragged Union Jack flew outside one particular old hut. We were able to go inside the British hut which had basic sleeping bunks, an old table, and some ancient dry provisions on shelves. A former stopping off place for scientific expeditions, it hadn’t been used since the 1990s. Using our ski poles, we were able to hike up to some higher points here and there to get great views across the water to mountains and glaciers beyond. There was one island which was volcanic, with no snow at all. The shoreline here had black lava sand, and as we walked up to higher ground, the lava became mixed with penguin guano, making it slippery under foot. The views were worth the climb. Looking back towards our starting point below we could see the wild black landscape with a hint of green lichen visible amongst the hordes of penguins. Ahead of us, we looked down onto a black bay, with lava rock arches. This was quite different to some of the other islands we had seen before. Across the water from this island we sailed into a flooded caldera, with just the one way in and out, and with sheer black lava coated walls all around. The weather gave us different perspectives. On some days we would have heavy snow and low cloud, but despite this it didn’t deter us from going ashore. In some bays the sea looked like it was on the point of freezing as small and large chunks of ice moved slowly together. It all added to the raw beauty of the region. It was just as interesting when we were out on the smaller zodiacs moving between icebergs in search of wildlife. Every day we were able to go out for a couple of hours with our binoculars and cameras, with our expert guide on the lookout for seal or whale sightings. I particularly loved the bright sunny times when we were on the millpond waters, moving past chunks of blue-white ice that had broken away from the icy cliffs. Some of the icebergs were spectacular, soaring high above us, and dwarfing our ship moored at a safe distance. A few of these had large holes and shapes carved into them, looking like art installations. We spotted basking seals and cormorants taking a rest, a pretty silver grey crabeater seal and the most abundant species, the leopard seal. They can grow to the length of a zodiac and can be dangerous. One came up close and followed us as we were heading ashore. This particular seal swished down beneath the zodiac, and up to each side, almost within touching distance, it’s mottled coat clearly visible beneath the water. This wasn’t the only encounter with a leopard seal, however. On a separate occasion we watched a Gentoo penguin swimming and porpoising across the water, but then realised it was being chased by a leopard seal. Unfortunately for the penguin, its time was up as the seal expertly snatched at the penguin’s wing and held it fast in its jaws. The next thirty minutes were spent watching the seal tenderise the penguin, by whacking the poor penguin against the water surface, and dragging it down beneath the water, only to repeat the action. Another highlight for me was the chance to see some whales. We headed out in their direction, shutting off the zodiacs’ outboard engines, gliding quietly along, some distance from where they were. We were rewarded with a group of six humpbacks breaching the water, then diving below. We watched for the tell-tale sign of their waterspouts as they moved along, only to surface again a few minutes later. Another whale highlight came one evening. The crew had spotted three separate pods of Orcas ahead of us. The whales were too far out to get any decent photos, but guests and crew alike became very excited to see this uncommon site. Their fins were clearly visible and there must have been about thirty or more of them. We had two further days at sea heading back across the wild seas of the Drake Passage, but thankfully the crossing this time was better. I will never forget the experiences we had on the seventh continent in Antarctica.

05 October 2020

2020 had scuppered any plans to travel abroad, but feeling the need to see a different part of the UK, we decided to rent a cottage and discover the scenic delights of the Yorkshire Dales. Fortunately we were extremely lucky with the weather, as this really is an area where it's needed. We stayed just south of Settle, on the Lancashire/Yorkshire border, in a beautiful quiet spot, but only about 15mins drive to the National Park. On our first day we headed to Ingleton, to do a circular walk taking about 3.5hrs discovering a number of pretty waterfalls, dry stone walled landscapes, and rolling green vistas. Just about the right level of difficulty for us, as we aren't serious walkers, but plenty of stops along the way to enjoy the views. We continued past the Ribble Head Viaduct, watching numerous hikers on their 3 Peaks Challenge, and on up to Hawes, a pretty village in Wensleydale, home of the cheese. The place was busy with day trippers and walkers. From there we continued north to have a quick drink at the highest pub in the UK, the Tan Hill Inn. It's on the Pennine Way, so very popular with campers, hikers and people passing through. The following day we first visited the Hardraw Force, which is the largest single drop fall in England. It was tucked away behind the Green Dragon Inn, just outside Hawes. It wasn't free to see it, and thought it was a bit over priced. We then continued back to Hawes and tried to visit the Wensleydale Creamery, but due to Covid 19 the queue was too long to get in. So after another wander around Hawes we continued along Wensleydale to Aysgarth, where there are some lovely waterfalls. There are 3 areas to see, with very pretty views, and definitely worth a visit, and it only cost to park the car. Robin Hood Prince of Thieves was filmed there. From Aysgarth we continued to Castle Bolton to see the very impressive Bolton Castle. Set in the middle of more pretty countryside, Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned there, but lived in relative comfort. Another place worth visiting. So that was the area to the north of where we were staying covered, so we decided to head east the next day. Set deep in the Dales, my favourite destination of the trip was next, to Malham Cove. With glorious weather, we set off on foot from Malham village along the Pennine Way to Janet's Foss, a pretty waterfall set in a wooded glade, with babbling streams filled with iron rich water. It was so peaceful there. We continued on the trail to Gordale Scar, a massive limestone ravine. You can climb up over the top. We didn't but continued along the Pennine Way towards Malham Cove. The scenery all along the route was spectacular, easy to walk and plenty of places to stop and take in the views. We eventually arrived at the top of Malham Cove, which is a huge curving amphitheatre made from limestone. On the top is a limestone pavement, which was fun to clamber over, giving great views down the 70m drop below to the village in the far distance. I'm glad we walked the route in the order we did because the steps up to the top of Malham Cove, which we descended, were steep and fairly slippery, so ascending would have been harder. The following day we drove further east again, through the pretty village of Grassington to just outside Ripon, and the Heritage and NT site of Fountains Abbey. Another very impressive ruin, set in lovely grounds within Studley Water Gardens. We spent a few hours wandering around, taking in the views, about 75 mins from where we were staying. Had we time, we would have continued into Ripon to explore a bit, but instead we returned via NT Brimham Rocks, which are set high on a hill, about 8mls from Harrogate with some weird rock formations, sculpted over the centuries by wind, ice and rain. Again more fantastic views to be seen. Unfortunately the weather deteriorated the following day so we headed into Harrogate to explore and took a free walking tour of the town. Harrogate has some fine buildings and of course is popular to visit the Turkish Baths, or take a spa treatment. Betty's Tea Rooms were as popular as ever. The town boasts some pretty well kept gardens which would have been lovely to explore had the weather been kind. On our final day we decided to head back north on a circular drive and cover Dentdale. We drove along a remote hillside road wide enough for one car, through farm gates and eventually arrived in the village of Dent. We felt we had stepped back in time. The remote village has narrow cobbled streets and we discovered was very popular with hikers. Talking to the owner of the local cafe, we discovered he knew one of my colleagues. What a small world! We loved the Yorkshire Dales, and easily filled a week. Had we more time, we could have driven to neighbouring Lake District, only about 40miles away, taken a trip on the Settle to Carlisle train, or visited Skipton and Bolton Abbey. We have some wonderful areas of Great Britain and feel this is one of many we shall explore further.

05 December 2019

After a fantastic trip last year visiting South Island New Zealand, ( see separate blog) we decided to return and explore the Central and Eastern areas of North Island. Scenically very beautiful, with more Maori culture than on South Island. On arrival in Auckland we picked up our hire car and headed straight to Mt Eden, which gives a great view of downtown Auckland. From there we crossed Auckland Harbour Bridge to Davenport on North Shore to get a different perspective of the city. There is a lovely marina area on the city side full of expensive looking yachts. From Auckland we gradually made our way south and east, first stopping for a couple of nights on the Coromandel Peninsular. This area is really pretty with a rugged landscape, thick forests and winding roads leading to pretty sandy coves and dramatic cliffs. We made our way to Hot Water Beach armed with a couple of spades to dig our own hot water pool, as the hot springs seep into the sand at low tide. Very popular with tourists as this is such an unusual phenomenon. Then we drove to Whitianga and got a boat that took us along the coast to see the beautiful rock formations and caves, and in particular Cathedral Cove, which can only be accessed by boat or walking a trail. Continuing to drive along the coast eastwards is a very enjoyable drive, with plenty of scenic vistas to enjoy along the way. We drove through Tauranga and on to Whakatane to spend a couple of nights overlooking the Bay of Plenty. The town's nearest beach is long, dark, and wild, called Ohope, mainly frequented by surfers, and locals walking their dogs when we visited. The main reason for stopping in Whakatane was the chance to visit White Island, some 80 mins offshore. White Island is a living volcano and can only be accessed by boat through one company authorised to take guided tours, or by flying over it. The volcanic activity was at a high level 2, which meant we could visit under strict supervision for a limited time. We were given gas masks to wear, as the sulphur levels were affected our breathing. This for me was the highlight of our trip, as it was fantastic to experience the raw power of a volcano with plumes of gassy steam emitting from the bowels of the earth, bubbling hot springs and sulphurous landscapes, all just a few hundred feet from where we stood. The following day we set off on a long drive around the east coast to the most easterly point East Cape, where the sun rises first on New Zealand. Plenty of photo stops on the way as the road wound its way through hills and around coves, all very dramatic. On from East Cape brought us to our overnight stop in Gisborne, which is the first place that Capt. James Cook landed in 1769. There is a statue commemorating the landing, and we enjoyed a walk along the waterfront discovering the history for ourselves. Across the water is a great spot to view the city too. To the south of Gisborne is the delightful city of Napier rebuilt in 1931 after a devastating earthquake. Consequently, the centre of the city has many Art Deco buildings which add to its charm. Although the beach is rough and not suitable for bathing, there is a long wide path running its length which is used for walkers and cyclists, plenty of café culture too, so I felt it had a lot to offer for a couple of nights. After leaving Napier we cut across North Island to the west coast and stay 2 nights in Wanganui. Running through the town is the vast Wanganui River, and from the opposite side to the town there is a great viewing platform, accessed by an ancient elevator, which gives wonderful views of the river and town beyond. Along the river was a bustling street market, and riverboat trips to enjoy. We found Victoria Lake just outside the centre and enjoyed a lovely walk around it, watching the various birdlife. After that we drove to the nearest beach, called Kai Iwi which was busy with locals, but quite a wild beach stretching far into the distance. Time to head northwards, we drove to the Turangi by the Tongariro National Park, and stayed in a lodge for a couple of nights. Although not serious hikers we wanted to walk part of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which can take a day. We took a shorter walk to the Taranaki Falls Waterfall, and got a good feel for the wild nature and mountain scenery. The following day we drove north to Rotorua for our final couple of nights, first stopping along the way at Taupo, which had a great tourist buzz, offering plenty of lake side activities. Lake Taupo dominates the area and is surrounded by mountains. A bit further on we stopped at Huka Falls, which has the most beautiful blue/green water as it tumbles along. Then further towards Rotorua we stopped again for a geothermal experience at Orakei Korako. Unfortunately the heavens opened as we arrived, so couldn’t enjoy the hot springs, bubbling mud pools and thermal landscapes as much as we could have. Our final full day was in and around Rotorua. First stop was to the highly recommended 3D Trick Art Gallery. We spent an enjoyable 90 mins being creative, being part of the 3D pictures, taking plenty of photos. Then we headed south to the Waimangu Volcanic Village for a 3km walk amongst the most amazing landscape. Mt Taranaki can be seen in the distance and in 1886 it erupted and has left hot lakes, silica filled rivers, steaming gas fumaroles, and mud pools for us all to enjoy. So a bit of everything geothermal. Back to Rotorua we wandered around the centre and lake front and found an interesting Maori area with a church and a Meeting House (Matere). There are plenty of places to eat, and a nice walk too along the lake front. We took 14 days to discover this region, and this time didn’t head north of Auckland or go as far south as Wellington, so I think to see everything you would need 3 weeks. We thoroughly enjoyed our time in North Island. Scenically not as dramatic as the South, but more beaches and pretty coves plus much more Maori culture, so together the two islands would make an awesome holiday!

05 December 2019

One of my bucket wishlist trips was to see Orangutans in Borneo, and this year I have ticked this one off. We flew via Kuala Lumpur for an overnight airport hotel stop and onward to Sandakan. Our guide took us to our accommodation just outside the Sepilok Orangutan Reserve. As we arrived in the early afternoon we had time to walk to the Reserve in the hope of seeing some Orangutans feeding. Food is put out for the apes around 10am and 3pm daily and as it is an open forest area, the apes are free to come and go. When we visited in September we discovered it was the fruiting season, so many of the animals feast on fruit in the rainforest so have no need to come to the Reserve. The best time to visit is Apr-July when the weather is dry and there is no fruit to be had. We only saw 1 large male that afternoon, which was a bit disappointing, but had booked to visit early the next morning. Just opposite the Orangutan Reserve is the Sun Bear Conservancy Centre, which has only been open a couple of years. We went there first and saw plenty of cute little sun bears, with their yellow noses and black bodies (who remembers the Sugar Puff adverts?!) Then we walked across to the Reserve, put our belongs in a locker and headed off to the viewing platform. This time we were much more fortunate. Plenty of apes and monkeys swung down and entertained us all, whilst we clicked away on our cameras. Other monkey species joined them. After a while we moved along to the Nursery, where behind glass we could view the younger members, who were outside, swinging on ropes and playing roly poly, very enjoyable for us to watch. Leaving Sepilok, we were dropped off at a jetty on the Kinabatangan River, and were met by a guide with some other travellers joining us to start a 2hr boat trip on the wide muddy river to our home for the next couple of nights. On the way we paused to see a fresh water crocodile and kept a look out for various monkeys and birds along the river. Eventually arriving at our riverside lodge we had time to check in meet up for the first of a number of river excursions. On the night excursion we discovered different types monkeys and birds using a strong spotlight. I was very impressed with our guide, as I couldn’t spot a thing until he pointed it out! The following morning we were up at dawn to see the animal life waking. We saw rare probiscus monkey troops, macaques, hornbills, eagles, giant monitor lizards and kingfishers. Later in the day we spent time sailing down some of the narrower tributaries and found different species. To enable the monkeys to cross the river, there was a high wire high across the river, where we witnessed a superiority act between a coup of macaques! Neither fell in! Leaving the River Lodge we headed back down to river to the airport and flew to Kota Kinabalu. We were met by our guide who took us to the jetty for Gaya Island Resort, our home for 3 more nights. Gaya Island is a beautiful Eco island just off the mainland, taking about 15 mins to get there. We had a beautiful villa overlooking the sea, surrounded by lush vegetation and walkways. There are number walks, and things to do. The food and service is first class too. The water is crystal clear so ideal for diving too. Then it was time to move on and spend our last full day in Singapore. We arrived in Singapore with enough time to head to the Marina Bay area, to see the free light show at the Gardens by the Bay, worth seeing as the lights are very pretty and colourful. There is also a free laser show by the Marina Bay Sands hotel each night. Having visited Singapore before (see previous blog) we decided to head back to the Marina Bay area the following morning and explore this region in greater detail. The Gardens by the Bay have 2 Domes, in which there are some fantastic floral displays from around the world. If time is short, then you will see more here than in the Botanical Gardens. We enjoyed everything there and then walked through to the Marina Bay Sands Hotel, and took the Sky Park to the top ( ticket entry - if you have travelled on Singapore Airlines you get a discount, and they also have a Senior Discount!) The view from the top of the hotel is fantastic. Non hotel guests are restricted where they go, but the view is not affected by this. You get a full perspective of the city from there. We then wandered around the lake in front of the hotel to the Merlion, a symbol of Singapore, and then along to the river to the statue of Sir Stamford Raffles. From there we walked to Raffles hotel before getting a taxi back to Orchard Rd and to collect our suitcases for our journey home. We didn’t visit Clarkes Quay or Chinatown this time, as we’d seen these on a previous visit. Singapore is a great place to stop for a short visit. They have a great zoo, a night safari, fabulous shopping, street food, markets and plenty of place to eat. Such a clean city too. We love it.

04 June 2019

Having explored New Zealand back in 1984, we promised one day we would return, and cover the parts we missed and revisit our favourite areas. Arriving at Christchurch airport we spent the night at a local motel before collecting the car for the start of our adventure. We didn't explore the city but wanted to get on the road, first heading to Lake Tekapo for our first stop. Somewhat larger than it was in 1984, there are a string of shops and cafes along the south end of the lake. Still quite remote and just as lovely as I remembered, we were lucky enough to see the wild Lupins adding colour to the lakeside, with beautiful views of the mountains beyond. After a night there we continued towards Queenstown stopping at Lake Pukaki which had great views of Mt Cook/Mt Aoraki, with a stunning aqua colour to the glacial lake. With the Southern Alps to our right we headed south and arrived at Queenstown in the early evening, just in time to get the gondola to the Skyline Restaurant for our pre-booked evening buffet meal. We ate there 35 years ago when the menu was a carvery choice, much expanded now to include an Asian buffet, carvery, salads, pastas and seafood. The main reason for booking though was for the fantastic view of Queenstown with The Remarkables and Lake Wakatipu below. Next morning was the Queenstown marathon and luckily the weather was glorious. The atmosphere was relaxed as people jogged/ran/walked along the route. We had a good walk around the peninsular edging the lake and explored the rest of the town, enjoying the cafe culture, people watching and the busy lake activities. In the evening we took the famous TSS Earnslaw steamer across the lake to Walters Peak and had a meal at the farmstead watching the sun set - just magical. Exploring a bit further afield we drove up to Coronet Peak the next morning where the views across the valley towards Arrowtown are breath-taking. Continuing to Arrowtown, we stopped for lunch and a wander around this old gold mining village, geared to the tourists but still worth a visit. We return via the valley and stopped off to watch the brave bungy jumping. Next day the weather turned as we headed south towards Te Anau in Fiordland. The road south edges Lake Wakatipu so there were some good stops for photos, but gradually the weather worsened and by the time we arrived at Te Anau it was beginning to sleet. I thought of the Crowded House song Four Seasons in One Day! We found a nice walk on the edge of the town and remembered the blue gum trees that edge Lake Te Anau. The following day we had an early start and were picked up by a coach which took us along the lake and through the Homer Tunnel to Milford Sound. By this time, we had quite a bit of snow and it was freezing. Just so glad I'd packed layers! The snow certainly added to the beauty though and after joining the Milford Sound cruise we sailed out to the open sea weaving our way through the misty waters and getting glimpses of the snowy peaks and waterfalls. Despite the unseasonal weather I wouldn't have missed it. We began the next morning with a stop at Lake Manapouri and a trip out to Doubtful Sound. Luckily the weather had improved, and we thoroughly enjoyed the trip on the boats, managing to get some great photos. Returning to Queenstown we continued towards Wanaka, via the Crown Range road. Again, we had a snowy drive on that road, but it all added to the beauty. After a night in Wanaka, we headed west on perhaps the most scenic part of our trip. The 3-4hr journey to Franz Josef took us over 7hrs as we stopped for photos and walks along the spectacular route through the Haast Pass. The snow-capped peaks added to the beauty. On arrival in Franz Josef we had a wander around the area and made plans for our stay. One thing we wanted to do was a scenic flight over the Southern Alps as this had been our highlight on our last visit. Back then we took a ski plane and landed on the Tasman Glacier, but sadly this is no longer possible. There is a choice of seeing the area by plane or by helicopter. We chose the plane because it covered the whole area and flew much higher than the helicopters. This trip is weather dependent so we had to see if the flights were operating. The first day they weren't so we headed off early to Fox Glacier and Lake Matheson from which you can see Mt Cook/ Mt Aoraki mirrored in the lake, a photographer's dream. The road to Fox Glacier itself was still closed after landslides a few months prior, so we headed back to Franz Josef Glacier and took a longish walk to as close as we could get to the edge of the glacier. We noticed how much the glacier had shrunk in 35yrs but were about to get a much better view when we flew by plane the next morning. We spent an hour in the air flying over the Southern Alps almost within touching distance of Mt Cook and Mt Tasman, with fantastic views below to the various glaciers and landscapes. Then we headed back to our car and drove north along the west coast towards Greymouth for our overnight stop. Next day we continued north stopping at Punakaiki and the Pancake Rocks with their unusual rock formations and blow holes, and onward to Nelson with many stops en route. Nelson was our base to explore the Abel Tasman National Park, a great area for hikers but scenically very pretty too. On to Blenheim for a couple of nights we enjoyed a half day wine tasting, followed by a day driving down to Kaikoura. Sadly, the bad weather scuppered any chance of whale watching but we were able to see where the land had risen above sea level after the earthquake. Fascinating to see rocks that had once been under the sea, now covered with seals. After returning to Blenheim we drove around the northern area around Picton before getting the ferry to Wellington for our final night. Wellington is a compact city, easy to get around. The wharf has been developed and is the place to go for your restaurant choices. We enjoyed Wellington's fine building including the famous Beehive government headquarters. Our trip lived up to its expectations. New Zealand's people are the friendliest I've encountered. As most of my client's bookings seem to be tailor made nowadays, I find New Zealand one of the easiest countries to book, mainly because I love it. North island is very different, but no less interesting , but that's another story!

05 December 2019

Having sent a lot of clients to South Africa and along the Garden route, I decided it was about time I paid a visit, so in March 19 we flew out to Cape Town and headed for the V&A Waterfront. We stayed in an apartment just 5 mins walk from the main tourist waterfront area, so no problem with finding anywhere to eat. We loved the relaxed safe vibe of the Waterfront and enjoyed browsing the Artisan Market and watching the seals swim into the harbour. We got the Hop on Hop off bus for a trip around Camps Bay and Table Mountain, took the cable car to the top of the mountain and got some great views of the city. The following day we joined a small group and headed south to Cape Point. Some great views are to be had along the way, but unfortunately the weather was against us, and once we got to Cape Point we had horizontal rain and gales. Still enjoyable though. We headed back up the peninsular and stopped to see the penguins at Simons Beach and Kurfustenhof Botanical Gardens before returning to the city. We should have taken a trip to Robben Island the following morning but the winds were strong so the trip was cancelled, so we looked around the museum instead. Time to pick up the hire car, we headed out to Franschhoek for a couple of nights. We had booked a wine tour early the next morning and by 9.30 we were sampling various wines, having had a brief history of Franschhoek and its origins first. Franschhoek is a delightful town with traditional Dutch influenced architecture and Huguenot history. It is surround by mountains set in a lush green valley, ideal for wine growing. Heading through the mountain pass through to the Karoo region, we saw some local monkeys. The mountain pass twists and turns giving way to some beautiful scenery and views. The roads are good and empty so easy to drive. I wanted to return to Karoo and see the Cango Caves at Oudtshoorn( see previous blog), as they are some of the best caves systems I’ve ever seen. We had an early morning start the following day as we went in search of meerkats as they woke at dawn. It was great watching it get light in the middle of the Karoo, not a sound to be heard, and then gradually you’d see a few meerkat heads popping up from their burrows checking it was safe to head off for the day. We continued our journey east passing through George, and then onto Plettenburg Bay, stopping on route at the Knysna Elephant Sanctuary. I had been there before on a work trip (previous blog), but we spent a bit more time and interaction this time with the orphaned elephants, getting up close with our own guide. A good place for an hour or so to have a break on our journey. Shortly after we arrived at our next stop at Plettenburg Bay, with time to watch the sunset over the Bay. Early next morning we headed to the Robberg Peninsular, which is a National Park next to Plettenburg Bay. Getting there early means you can park easily and then head off for a choice of walks. We picked the middle one which took us along the cliffs and about half way along you come to some sand dunes, where you can either continue on a more difficult walk to the end of the peninsular or cut across to the other side the peninsular across the dunes and slowly make your way back. I found if fairly strenuous but enjoyed the flora and fauna. It took about 3hrs in all I think, probably quicker if you are fitter. The car park was full and cars parked all along the road when we returned. Our final day we headed to Port Elizabeth Airport but stopped along the way at the Tsitsikamma National Park to walk the suspension bridge across Storms River, which was a very enjoyable break in our journey. Some people kayaked around the gorge below us. A quick but enjoyable trip across the bottom of South Africa, full of varied activities and views. Hope to return one day!

08 April 2018

For many years I have yearned to explore the southernmost region of South America, so was extremely excited to be able to plan my dream holiday. We flew direct to Santiago with BA overnight in comfort in business class, which allowed us to get some good hours of sleep, so we would feel refreshed to start our adventure. We arrived at a glorious sunny Santiago and were met by our driver who took us straight to our hotel. With nothing planned for the rest of the day, we took a taxi out to a Military Aviation Museum, which suited my husband, and gave me a chance to see the city as we drove across the city. First impressions, were wide streets and leafy parks, peppered with some lovely European architecture. After an early night we met our personal local guide who took us around the city using public transport, and on foot. It was a great way to see the city from a 'local' perspective. The metro was clean, comfortable and felt safe. We wandered through the local markets, which sold everything from fish, vegetables and fruit to beautiful flowers in stunning arrangements, being mainly for funerals. We headed to the centre, walking through pretty plazas, passing the Basilica, Post Office, which was housed in a lovely French style building through to the seat of government, an area where the public demonstrate. On the day we visited there was a peaceful pro-abortion demonstration. We continued to a view point which gave us a panoramic view of the city, backed by the Andes. All in all, a very nice, safe city, with friendly people. That evening we flew to Punta Arenas, arriving in the evening, met by our driver, and driven to our overnight hotel in the centre. The following morning, we were ready for a long five-hour drive north to Torres del Paine National Park, which I really looked forward to visiting. The first couple of hours we drove along some flat and fairly uninspiring scenery, stopping to take photos of guanaco (a type of wild Llama), seeing rhea, and surprisingly some flamingo too. After a couple of hours, we stopped at an Estancia (ranch) for a Patagonian lamb BBQ, some Pisco sours and local wine, followed by a demonstration of sheep shearing. A nice way to break the journey. After about three hours we could start to see a change in the scenery, and the mountainous National Park in the distance. We passed very close to the Argentinian border, which we would return to, to continue the next step of our adventure in a couple of days. Our hotel in the National Park was lovely, and everything including the long transfers was included. We woke to a beautiful sunrise and set off on a day long excursion stopping for numerous photographs. At every turn were stunning vistas, a photographer’s dream. This is what I had hoped it would be like. This area is a hiker’s paradise. I've never seen so many fit people! All ages, although no children. I'm not the fittest of people, so we took the gentler route, by minibus, but still had the opportunity to enjoy every bit, without the effort. There were also keen cyclists who had hired bikes to explore the area too. We were taken to Lago Grey Glacier, and to get there we had to walk across part of the dried-up lake, which no doubt in winter will fill again. It was quite strenuous walking on the shingle for about 15mins, but we kept stopping to take photos along the way. We eventually arrived at the lake, and boarded a boat, which took us to the edge of the glacier. An enormous chunk of ice had broken off and up close it was beautiful. It became very windy on the return, struggling to stay upright as we returned across the shingle, but well worth it. We stopped on the return to the hotel for an impromptu picnic. A lovely way to end the day outside with other travellers from around the world. The following morning, we wandered around outside our hotel watching the horses being prepared for their riders' excursions, one of the options we could have chosen. Others set off on various hikes, some for a day, some for a half day to different parts of the Park. We headed to Lago Azul, the Blue Lake, which would give us another perspective and photo opportunities. Again, another lovely area, where were walked along the edge of the lake admiring the scenery all around us. We stopped to see a pretty waterfall and admired a small bird called the Torrent Duck, battling to stay upright as the waters plunged over the edge of the waterfall. Then it was time to take the 4-5hrs transfer across the border into Argentina. We didn't leave the hotel until 2pm, so by the time we got to the border about an hour later, the border traffic was minimal. We'd heard from others who'd crossed in the morning, that the wait can be quite long. The border itself was interesting. After leaving the National Park and all its stunning beauty, we travelled along the dusty roads to the Chilean border point. Pretty straightforward getting our passports stamps, and a quick 'Banos' stop, we travelled for about 8km in no man's land on a fairly decent road, which abruptly came to end arriving in Argentina. The road changed to a dusty bumpy track, and border point was no more than a large hut. No facilities, but a strategic sign telling us that the Malvinas were part of Argentina - very subtle! As we were only two on our minivan transfer, we didn't have to wait long. We went back to our minivan, driven another mile or so, and then stopped again. We wondered what was happening as most conversation was in Spanish, but quickly realised we had to change to another vehicle and a new driver, who would continue our transfer for another 3hrs. Noticeably there were no guanaco, or indeed any wild life along the way. Scenically the long straight road cut through miles of empty brown plateau. I was glad I had my book with me and my husband put his seat back and had a snooze. By the time we got to our destination, El Calafate, it was beginning to get dark. El Calafate has grown since the airport was built there a few years ago. It is a small town, purpose built really for tourism, set on the largest lake in Argentina, Lago Argentina. We stayed outside of town, on the edge of the lake, with lovely views across to the mountains in the distances, but this area has not been developed, so there is nothing there. 'Back of Beyond' I think I said at the time! On reflection I think I would recommend staying in El Calafate itself, as there are places to eat and shops. To be continued. See Part 2 .

09 April 2018

We had arrived in Argentina and woke in El Calafate to see another highlight of our trip the Perito Moreno Glacier. Another place high on my wish list, we took a well-organized excursion, picking up others on the way and were driven about an hour around the lake towards the mountains. First stop, we travelled across the lake to our first view of the 4km wide glacier. All the time we could hear the cracks and thud of ice breaking off. We headed to the edge of the glacier, donned some crampons and began a mini trek up onto the glacier. What a thrilling experience. Small groups followed an ice track weaving over the crevices, after which we were lucky enough to go underneath and inside the glacier. Definitely a wow! Next the boat took us back to the shore and we drove to the main area where were viewed this enormous piece of nature from a series of walkways at different levels. Just fabulous. The following morning, we took a short flight south to Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world. The Andes backdrop this edge of the world. Our hotel overlooked the Beagle Channel, with Chile just across the water. We spent the afternoon exploring the small city (a town really) and then the next day headed into the Tierra del Fuego National Park. Here we travelled by the Tren del Fin Mundo (end of the world train), which cut through the peat and undulating scenery. We then continued by road to the end of the Pan American Highway, loving the fact that nearly 18000kms to the north was Alaska. We could go no further south by road. The following morning, we joined a catamaran to sail along the Beagle Channel in search of cormorants, seals, sea lions and penguins. Although extremely chilly, we enjoyed the views and got photos of various sea life along the way. South of us was Antarctica! We warmed up with a hot lunch and another wander around Ushuaia before heading back to our lovely hotel. That evening we flew to Buenos Aires and were met by our guide. The first thing she said was to leave my husband's watch in the hotel safe. That really instilled confidence! The following morning, we were picked up and driven north of the city out into the countryside for a day of Gauchos and a BBQ. The Estancia was run by a fourth-generation family of gauchos, so it was good to see the authenticity. Some of us opted to ride with the gauchos, and others take a leisurely ride in a sully (old fashioned open carriage). We then had a traditional BBQ with wine and beer, followed by demonstrations of horse whispering and traditional dancing. All very relaxing and enjoyable. The following day we met our guide for a tour around the city by local bus and on foot. Like Santiago, it was good to be part of the city and not cushioned by a private car. Buenos Aires is a very large city. We had been warned about the traffic, but as it was the Easter break we were lucky enough not to be affected. The city has a European influence, having drafted in French Architects in the 18th Century. Full of wide leafy boulevards, parks and pretty buildings, the central area was very attractive. We moved then to the bohemian area of La Boca, which was full of colourful buildings once inhabited by artists and now a buzzing tourist area. We were treated to some Tango dancing in a market area, plenty of local handicrafts to browse, and numerous open-air bars and restaurants, although we were always mindful of keeping valuables out of sight. A distinct contrast to the wealthier central area, but just as interesting. We ended up in the Recoleta area of the city and visited the mausoleum where Evita is buried. That in itself was an eye opener. The mausoleum houses many tombs, like small houses, and you wander around the 'streets' to view them. In the evening we went to a Tango Dinner show downtown, in an art deco theatre. Very Strictly! Next stop was a flight to Iguazu Falls. You will read on a previous blog about an earlier visit, but this time I returned with my husband as this place is awesome, and possibly my favourite place in the world. Our hotel was outside the park, but in the rain forest, so we saw monkeys and wildlife within the grounds. First exploring the Argentinian side of the Falls, you take a small train to the giant Devils Throat, at the head of the Falls. With over 1.6 million litres of water a second thundering over the 285 waterfalls that make up the Iguzu Falls, it is a sight to behold. There is a walkway too that goes over the smaller falls, with views into infinity, seeing double height falls. We also took a boat that took us right into the spray at the foot of one of the falls, naturally getting soaked to the skin, but great fun. They provide a waterproof bag to but your own bag, camera, and shoes to keep them dry. It was like sitting under a full-on shower! There was also another more leisurely boat trip on the quieter part of Rio Iguazu, which was peaceful. After a full day there, we hopped over the border to another dinner show with 7 South American countries represented by dancers performing traditional dances from their countries. We had the next morning free to relax and pack ready for our evening departure to Rio, but first we travelled over the border into Brazil and stop at a view point where 3 countries, Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil met, and then continued to the Brazilian side of the Falls. Unlike my last visit this time there were thousands of butterflies, numerous cute coatis, and a few monkeys all around us. The views from the Brazilian side are just as awesome and a must if you want to experience everything the Falls has to offer. We made our way along the walk ways, gradually getting wet from the spray, but well worth it. Our guide took us straight to the airport for our flight. With just a day in Rio I wanted to revisit the sights. First stop Christ Redeemer, with views across to Copacabanca, Ipanema and Sugar Loaf Mountain. Next, we drove to Sugar Loaf and got the cable car to the top. The views were beautiful. We watched planes land at the domestic airport below us and took in the panorama. I could have spent hours there. Next stop was the cathedral that houses 20,000 people and looks like a dalek from the outside. Inside is impressive and symbolic, but the 1960's architecture didn't impress. We rediscovered the Selaron Steps, made up of thousands of tiles from around the world before returning to the airport for our flight home. Sad to leave, it was epic and memorable!

31 January 2018

The Gambia is a country I've never considered visiting, so leaving the UK on a bitterly cold January morning, I had no preconceived idea of what to expect on my arrival. The six-hour nonstop charter flight arrived mid-afternoon. It’s the same time as Britain so no need to adjust. It was lovely stepping out in the warm air, dressed in summer clothing. Immigration was a breeze, but slightly chaotic collecting our bags. Who knew it was OK to walk across the baggage belt!? We had about a 45-minute drive through the capital Banjul to our resort, passing half-built buildings, corrugated roofs on shacks, goats, donkeys and colourful locals going about their business. I noticed how lovely the ladies were dressed in their traditional brightly coloured dresses with matching headwear. Clearly still a developing country, The Gambia's people struck me as the happiest I've seen on my travels. We passed people selling fruit and local crafts on the dusty roadside. Our hotel, the Ngala Lodge, was an oasis of calm set in beautiful, if quirky gardens. We were greeted by Jonathan the English manager who welcomed us with a local juice drink, Wonjo, made from sorrel berries. All the rooms are decorated in a different, but quirky way. For the first three nights we were in the original Gambian building, which was home to the owners. The room was spacious but could have done with an update. We had beautiful views overlooking the gardens from our balcony. We moved to a newer room for the next four nights as the resort was fully booked. We knew this in advance. The second room was lovely, with a hot tub and outside shower, our own pretty garden, and gate leading to a secluded pool, shared with their guests. I also looked around the Manor rooms, and the Atlantic Suites, all very nice and all with nice views. There were many repeat guests, mainly British and Dutch, no children, which lays testament to the staff and general relaxed ambiance of the hotel. Each staff member remembers your name and I was particularly touched by the fact that Lamin, the pool lad, got our sunbeds ready for us in advance, without us knowing. Jonathan was right when he said the hotel was all about good service. Food in the restaurant was excellent and frequented by outside guests too. We took a day trip into Senegal to visit the Wildlife Reserve at Fathala. To get there we rose at dawn (not that early, as sunrise is about 7am), drove back to Banjul and took the local ferry across the River Gambia to the north shore at Barra. The ferry crossing itself was an eye opener. Cars, trucks, people, babies and goats. We had to be careful not to have any valuables on show, as white people are targets for the local sales pitch. The crossing took about 40 minutes and we watched the sunrise. Then we boarded an open truck and travelled to the Senegalese border, about 30 minutes away. The roads were good and straight, although very dusty. We passed waving children, more animals and more run-down shacks on the way. The border was a busy place where locals had set up their wares and children asked for money, empty water bottles, anything they could sell on. No one was aggressive, and it all felt safe. We had to show our passports and yellow fever certificates at the border and were asked our occupation. They didn't know what a travel agent was! On arrival at the Reserve, we had a quick comfort stop. We then drove into the Reserve. We were soon rewarded with views of zebras, rhino, warthogs, giraffe and various antelope species, a beautiful bright blue bird, and a couple of monkeys. Some were well camouflaged in the dry long grasses, but everyone onboard had their eyes peeled. All in all, a good trip to break up the week. Out beyond the hotel are numerous places to eat, although a walk or taxi ride away. You book a taxi for the evening, for about £10 and they will wait while you have your meal. There are a few other excursions can book, such as boat trips along the river, bird watching, and cultural excursions too. Sadly, we had to return home all too soon. My impression is that The Gambia has perfect winter sun temperatures, so ideal for a relaxing break away between November and May.

21 September 2017

For some years my family have enjoyed the cruising experience and we have covered the Med, Alaska, Norway and Iceland, but this year felt we should try a more grown up experience and booked on Celebrity Silhouette with a group of likeminded friends. As we had booked some months ahead, we were able to take advantage of the many enticing offers Celebrity offered such as the free drinks package, and on board credit. These offers are really worth having because the on board spend is drastically reduced. We flew into Stockholm and spent the night on board, which gave us a day to enjoy the delights of Stockholm. We picked up the Hop on Hop off bus and made our way to the ABBA Museum getting there early to avoid the crowds. Thoroughly enjoyed being taken back to the 1970s, and even had a go at singing myself on stage with a hologrammed ABBA! Next stop,we headed to Gamla Stam, the Old Town, and was enchanted by the beautiful old buildings and winding streets. Like many of the other places we visited on this cruise the architecture is very pleasing. Some of our friends took a short boat trip out amongst the many islands in the area. Next stop was Helsinki, which was surprising nice. Again we used the Hop On Hop Off bus, stopping at the Segovia Monument, and The Rock Church, yes a church built into a rock! Then we headed down to main harbour area, which is also home to an impressive cathedral and seat of government. This area is very photogenic and much time was spent strolling around. . Again boat trips were possible, for a change of scenery. Just across the water was my favourite stop at Tallinn. What a magical place the Old Town is. I felt like I was stepping into a Grimms Fairytale book, with the many pointed church towers and onion domed tops, Dutch influenced buildings, cobbled streets and pretty shops. We came across the main square which was buzzing with families and people enjoying a café culture, A brass band played in one corner which added to the pleasant vibe. A place I'd like to return to and explore further. Next stop was St Petersburg, which if you read another of my journals on this site, I have visited before in Spring. This time we were in the height of summer so I was keen to revisit Peterhof Palace and see the golden fountains in their full glorious splendour. The gardens were beautiful, with numerous fountains to enjoy. After this we revisited the Hermitage Museum, seeing other art works and remembering others. One can spend all day there and only see a fraction of the artworks. The Winter Palace, in which the Hermitage is housed is a work of art itself. I'm sure Cinderella was there for the ball! St Petersburg is a truly beautiful city. Leaving St Petersburg we headed to Riga in Latvia, which was substantially cheaper, when buying drinks and food. Whilst similar to Tallinn, the infrastructure for tourism isn't really in place. There was far more graffiti and it didn't have the same feel. However, around the parliament buildings and streets nearby, it was pretty, having a medieval feel about it. More cobbled streets and churches added to its charm. Glad I have been there, but probably wouldn't return. Our final day at sea gave us a chance to enjoy the ship. As expected the food and service on board was 1st rate. Various options to entertain included a variety of theatre shows, music, a silent disco, which proved very popular. The spa, solarium and pool areas were popular, despite the cooler weather. We travelled with couples who had cruised before and also non cruisers, and all agreed the whole trip was very enjoyable.

25 September 2017

I have just spent a very enlightening and educational time exploring Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Vietnam and Siem Reap in Cambodia. All 4 countries have something different to offer, culturally, historically and socially. It has been a real eye opener, and I have learned much on my travels. First stop , we arrived in a spotless Singapore, with gleaming high rise buildings, great restaurants, and an easy subway system to explore. Although very busy on the road, the traffic was orderly, and easy to negotiate. We stayed near Clarkes Quay, where there is an abundance of eateries, and a metro nearby at Chinatown. Unfortunately the weather was against us and we couldn't see an cityscapes from various high points due to lightening, but our overall impression was a clean, safe city. We did have the required Singapore Sling at Raffles, which was in a colonial oasis. Some fabulous architecture too, from Hindu temples, to modern high rises. Next stop Kuala Lumpur, and we decided to get the hop on hop off bus to explore, all of £8.50 each for the day!. We were able to see KL's highlights, first stopping at the Petronas Towers, for fantastic views of the city . Traffic in KL is horrendous, so it took time to get to each place of interest. Our favourite area was slightly beyond the main drag, around the National Palace, with it's golden domes, the Bird Park, and Merdeka Square, and Chinatown. Mainly a Moslem country, we found the cost of living to be low compared to Singapore. Next stop was Hanoi, North Vietnam. We had a half day tour that included Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, the Presidential Palace, the Temple of Literature and the One Pillar Pagoda. We wandered through the streets of the Old Town which were full of tiny shops and stalls selling street food. Hanoi hit our senses, full of mopeds, sounds of horns, and smells of food. Vietnam is still a Communist country with a strong Chinese influence in their architecture. From Hanoi we drove to the World Heritage site of Halong Bay for our overnight stay on a junk. We weaved in and out of the Bay, past the famous limestone stacks, stopping for a beautiful walk into some hidden caves. After a short flight we arrive at Danang, and drove to Hoi-an for a couple of nights. Hoi-an has a traffic free central Old Town, and is famous for it's artisan crafts and tailor shops. We wandered around for a few hours, bartering for some bargains, and enjoying a relaxed lunch. After Hoi-an we drove to the Citadel and original ancient capital of Hue. Vietnam has a strong French colonial influence and the older buildings were very attractive. The Citadel in Hue was a fascinating place to explore, a place where the King had his Forbidden City, so there were many Chinese looking temples. Next stop was Ho Chi Minh City in South Vietnam. An enormous city, which seemed more modern than Hanoi, mainly because of the US influence from the war. We were taken to the Cu Chi Tunnels outside of HCM City to see how the Vietcong rebels had survived the war, by using an ingenious set of tunnels. We saw the traps they set for the US enemy, and learned a lot about the awful war that dragged on in the 60s/70s. Back to the city, we had a city tour, and discovered a beautiful boulevard with a statue of HC Minh and City Hall behind. The Catholic Cathedral was impressive, and next to this was the stunning Post Office Building, built when the French governed Vietnam. The Jade Pagoda was another fascinating place to visit, watching the locals praying for various things, such as a better life, or a son. The Pagoda smelled of incense, as this is the way that the living communicate with the departed. We enjoyed wandering around the former Presidential Palace, now renamed as the Reunification Palace during the Vietnam War. Many of the buildings in Vietnam looked old, but were in fact rebuilt in the 20th Century after the French Colonial war, and Vietnam War. A troubled poor country, that hopefully has turned the corner, and can start to enjoy a peaceful life. Leaving Vietnam, we flew to Siem Reap, in Cambodia for our last couple of days to explore Angkor Wat and surrounding ancient Buddhist temples. On arrival we headed straight to Banteay Srei, also called the Citadel of Women. This dates from the 10th century, and has some fine bas reliefs examples of Khmer Art. Our visit to various temples showed us a contrast to the modern reconstructions in Vietnam. These were original , most dating from the 12th Century and all the temples were different to each other. The most impressive to me was Angkor Wat, which we viewed at sunrise, and was one of those magical moments I will never forget. Each temple had thousands of beautiful carvings and bas reliefs, all telling a story. We visiting Ta Prohm temple too which was the place where they filmed Tomb Raider. This temple has been left to Nature, and there are enormous trees whose roots weave and intermix with the stonework. It all added to the atmosphere. Cambodia is economically less developed than Vietnam, and has a mainly Buddhist/ Hindi influence. The style of the buildings in the city are reminiscent of Thailand. It is still a Communist country and I feel that travel is still in its infancy, so a great country to visit while there are few western influences. There is a UNESCO beach a few hours from Siem Reap, so a great country to combine history, culture and relaxation. We were travelling early April, which is the best time to visit both Vietnam and Cambodia, although rainfall is likely, it won't be continuous. It will be very hot and humid throughout though. So a fascinating couple of weeks, experiencing 4 different cultures. I learned a lot.

05 December 2016

Arriving in Perth in the dead of night, we whizzed through immigration and found ourselves in our city hotel room within an hour of landing. Our first day was spent exploring all that Perth has to offer, our favourite area being Kings Park, with its fabulous views of the city skyline and beautiful flora and fauna. Perth is a mix of old and new, and is quite provincial. We got a train to Fremantle which is a delight and a bit old fashioned, and took a ferry to Rottnest Island, a traffic free white sand island just off the mainland and met the local quokka population, travelling back to Perth along the Swan River. Next stop Sydney. The best way to approach the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House is by ferry. This metropolis was buzzing with tourists. We wandered around Darling Harbour and were treated to the weekly free fireworks display. We strolled around Circular Quay, The Rocks, and the Botanical Gardens, which led us to Hyde Park, and the busy shopping area. Another day was spent up in the Blue Mountains, and a visit to the Jenolan Caves, which are well worth it. From Sydney we flew to Launceston in North Tasmania, for a fly drive around the island. Cradle Mountain took us back to nature, a complete wilderness retreat, where all you could hear was bird song and the only visitors were the pademelons and possums. A wonderful place to walk and photograph. Driving east from there we arrived at the Freycinet National Park, in contrast to the undulating scenery we found beautiful white sand beaches and coves, my favourite being Wineglass Bay, which although a took a strenuous hour or so to walk through the undergrowth and an uphill trail, was well worth it. It was bliss having an evening drink overlooking Coles Bay and watching the sun go down after a hard day's walking and photographing. Plenty of wallabies to be found here. Next we headed south towards the Tasman Peninsular. Here the coastline becomes rugged, with crashing waves and carved rock formations, very dramatic. We stopped at Port Arthur and spent a day at the Heritage site there, learning about the lives of the many convicts who were sent there 150 years ago. Life was hard then and it was interesting to hear the stories from the informative staff. Ninety minutes on from Port Arthur is the region's capital Hobart. An attractive city, mainly focused around the waterfront, we strolled around and found the old Victorian streets and houses that could have been on the Isle of Wight. Not to miss was the drive up to Mount Wellington which overlooks the city. The views from the top were magnificent, as you could see the city and across to the Tasman Peninsular and over the mountains to the north too. Back to the mainland and Victoria, we picked up another car and headed west from Melbourne to the Grampians area and Halls Gap, which is the centre for campers and walkers. We explored the mountains, with great views from various lookouts, walks and waterfalls. Lots of kangaroos came out to feed at dusk in this area. From there we drove south to the coast and Port Fairy. This little town is very pleasant, and has everything, nice beach walks, a marina, quirky restaurants (we ate at Coffin Sally) and the second oldest lighthouse in Australia. About 15 minutes along the coast towards Warrambool, we stopped at the Tower Hill State Reserve and were very lucky to see a koala within touching distance, busily feeding on gum leaves. Emus wandered by too, so it was great to see different wildlife. We stopped at Kennett River too and saw more koalas and cheeky parakeets, which took a liking to my head and arms, using them as a perch! Along the Great Ocean Road, from Port Campbell to the Otway Peninsular we found the most dramatic rock formations, such as the 12 Apostles, Loch Ard, and London Bridge. At almost every turn there was a view to photograph, so it took some time to complete our journey that day just outside Apollo Bay. From Apollo Bay, along the coast to Melbourne, isn't so dramatic, although there were plenty of pull-ins, the view was less spectacular. The road hugs the coast and winds its way towards Melbourne. Melbourne's roads were extremely busy after the hours of driving along virtually empty roads, but we found our hotel and decided not to use the car again until it was time to return to the airport. We stayed south of the Yarra River and were glad we did. In this area, there are plenty of restaurants, street theatre and music as you wandered along the waterside. We did venture across the river, but found the CBD to be busy, and not as appealing. We took a trip to the top of the Eureka Tower, which gave fantastic panoramic city views and strolled along the river to the beautiful Botanical gardens and parks. We found the Shrine of Remembrance which in itself was very interesting, but also gave some beautiful views across to the city. In the evening we booked a dinner on the Colonial Tramcar, which is an old tram that takes you south to St Kilda to see the old part of Melbourne, whilst enjoying sumptuous dining. Then it was time to drive back to the airport and return to Blighty. Our overall impression of Australia was that it was relatively expensive, but the people and the scenery more than made up for this. We loved it, and shall return one day to explore the other areas we couldn't visit.

08 February 2017

We decided it was time for a return visit to New York, so in June 2016, we set off for a weekend exploring. Interesting to compare our experiences at immigration. 2 of us arrived at JFK, and the immigration queue was very long, taking about 2hrs to get through. 2 people flew to Newark and got through immigration quickly, so they arrived at our hotel some time before we did. Our 1st day, we had time to wander to Times Square and absorb the buzz, as the evening neon lights came on and lit the sky. Up next morning and we headed for the Intrepid Air and Space Museum, which is on board an old aircraft carrier. We walked west from 7th Street/34th Street to the shoreline, and got there early enough to avoid the school trips and hoards of tourists. This enabled my aircraft-fanatic husband to get people-free pictures of the aircraft lined up on the deck. We were able to see a Space Shuttle and the exterior of a Concorde too, plus we clambered all over the aircraft carrier, good fun, even if you aren't an aircraft enthusiast. After this we walked a few hundreds yards along to another pier to board a boat which took us south along the Hudson River giving us coastal views of the New York skyline, a close up of the Statue of Liberty, and the around the bottom of Manhattan and up the East River, returning the same way after going under Brooklyn Bridge. This gave my husband, a first time visitor, a good overview of Manhattan from the water. We purchased a multi-day hop on hop off bus ticket which covered a double loop to cover the whole of Manhattan. We found that we could also use this as our means of getting around, whilst having a guide explaining everything. The next day we headed south for our timed entry to the 911 Museum and Peace Garden. The museum is to be recommended, and it is beautifully laid out and takes you on a journey of that fateful day. It really made you think about the enormity of what had happened. Very poignant. We also had timed tickets to go to the Observation Deck in the World Trade Towers, but the view was blocked by low cloud, so we took a rain check for the following day. Whilst in the vicinity we headed to Battery Point and took a ferry across to Liberty and Ellis Islands. On reflection the statue of Liberty was just as visible without going ashore, so we could have gone on the free Staten Island ferry and still had a very good view. However, I think Ellis Island was worth a stop, as the Immigration History is conveyed in a very interesting way. We walked from Battery Point around to Pier 17, past Wall St, and it is there that you can get discounted Theatre tickets for that evening, without having to queue. It isn't the easiest place to find, but it is tucked away across the road from the Pier, next to a children's park. Otherwise the same TKTS booth can be found at Times Square, but it is sometimes very busy there. We bought tickets to see a show on Broadway for that evening, and excellent stall seats we had too. The next day, which was a Saturday, we explored the area to the north of Times Square. Our hop on hop off bus took us up around Central Park, and down Park Avenue, past the Metropolitan and Guggenheim Museums. We then had a lovely walk in Central Park, watching the numerous families out at play. There were ball games, picnics, street dancers, roller skaters, people in rowing boats, riding bikes and a few bridal groups having their photo opportunities. It was all very pleasant. We found Strawberry Fields, and Alice in Wonderland sculpture too. After that we headed to the Top of the Rock at the Rockefeller Centre and this gave us a great view of the Chrysler Building in one direction, and Central Park in the other. From there too, you get the best view of the Empire State Building. We watched the sun set, and Manhattan light up for the evening. Our last day started off extremely wet, so we decided to keep to indoor activities. First stop was Madame Tussauds, sitting at the President's desk, and seeing numerous famous American faces. Next stop was a tour of Radio City Music Hall. This beautiful Art Deco building has bags of history and our guide was very informative. The weather eased so our last stop was a view from the Empire State Building, which gave us distant views of the Statue of Liberty, and the East River. I'm glad we saw Manhattan from every view point. It was time then to head back to our hotel to meet our pre-booked taxi. Unfortunately, I think the hotel desk must have called Uber, as a lady arrived to take us back to JFK and used her mobile as a Sat Nav. She clearly didn't have a clue where she was driving, and we ended up having a detour around Queens, which was surprisingly nice! Our hour long trip took us nearer 2 hours so we had to dash to check in, fortunately making it in time. So a word from the wise, don't use Uber! All in all, I think we covered a huge amount. We weren't interested in shopping, and proved that there is still enough to do without browsing the shops.

03 August 2015

As Brazil was an unknown entity to me, I thought it was time to explore much of what the country has to offer. Flying into Rio de Janeiro, watching the most amazing sunset below, we were met by our English speaking guide and transferred to our hotel for the night. Next morning we were collected by a local transfer company by coach for a very long drive to Buzios. The journey is actually 3hrs, but due to the time collecting others and waiting around, it ended up being nearly 6hrs. Already we decided the return should be by private taxi! Buzios is a pretty beach area east of Rio. It has a very Mediterranean feel about it, much like Menorca. We stayed in a small pousada within 15 mins walk of a number of sandy beaches, and about 10 mins to the small centre with it's shops, beachside cafes and bars - very much a family resort area. Having now seen what Buzios is like, I personally feel it is too Mediterranean for my liking, and would have preferred something like Ilha Grande as our beach stay, as it is a bit closer to Rio and more tropical. So back to Rio for the next part of our trip, which involved a flight to Iguacu Falls. We spent 2 days exploring both the Argentinian and Brazilian sides of the Falls, both offering different views. Without doubt this was the highlight of our trip. The Falls are AWESOME! We saw various indigenous animals such as toucans, coati and capuchin monkeys. Our guide took care of all the border paperwork, and I think this is the best way to see the Falls. You can do both sides in one very full day, but the recommendation is to get to the Argentinian side for the first little train in the park at 8am that takes you to Devil's Throat, the thunderous waterfall at the head of the Falls. From there you walk a number of boardwalks to various points along side the river to marvel at the views below and across to the Brazilian side of the Falls. Included in the cost of the ticket is a boat trip which goes right alongside the waterfalls. You are provided with waterproof bags. and are advised to take a change of clothes and flip flips for the boat as you will get soaked to the skin. Great fun though! We saw some beautiful butterflies at this point. After the boat trip there is a safari ride through the undergrowth to see some of the wildlife. The Brazilian side would take less time, but is equally impressive and wet! From Iguazu we flew to Cuiaba for a 3hr road transfer to the Pantanal Wetlands. This area takes you completely back to nature. We went in their dry season, so were able to see many more animals and birds feeding by the riverbed. We saw plenty of storks, herons, kingfishers, cormorants and spoonbills, plus a couple of hyacinth macaws and other birds which made a cacophony of sound especially at sunrise. We saw capybara, caiman, iguanas and howler monkeys within touching distance. We had activities included in our stay at our pousada. The staff were fantastic, very considerate and knowledgeable. The first morning we donned our chaps and headed off on the dusty tracks on horseback, followed by a few hours relaxing by the pool in the 35c heat. Later in the afternoon we took a boat with our guide along Rio Mutum, the main river there, where we saw an abundance of wildlife. We watched the sun go down on the river, and felt completely at one with nature. No street lights, no sounds except the lapping waters and birds calling. The following morning we were up early to go on a safari drive, on the look out for hyacinth macaws, tiny owls, rheas, gaucho farmers and hundreds of bird life. We relaxed again for a few hours in the afternoon during the hottest part of the day, and then took the boat out again , but this time on the lake, in search of giant otters. The light was tremendous, with mirror reflections in the water. As the sun dipped beyond the horizon we were invited to fish for piranha, as this is the time when the flies and insects come to the water and the fish pop up to catch them. Again some great sunset views. We arrived back at our jetty to some waiting caimans, literally a couple of feet from us. They come up on land in the evening waiting for any piranhas caught that evening! Next morning we rose before dawn, and took a canoe out onto the river to watch the sun rise. We heard the dawn chorus and gradually the roosting birds began to fly off. It was magical! We ate well at the pousada. I can recommend piranha soup! After our sunrise excursion we packed and set off for the airport and flew back to Rio for our last day. The next morning we were met by our guide and had a full day exploring all the Rio has to offer. First stop was Christ Redeemer, the Corcovada statue standing high over the city. Unfortunately below the statue it was very misty so we couldn't see the amazing views of the city below, but the statue was very impressive. We drove down to a lower view point and through the haze could see Sugar Loaf Mountain. We continued into the old part of the city at Santa Teresa, where they have cobbled streets and trams. There are some fine colonial buildings which unfortunately have been left in disrepair, and could be beautiful again with some TLC. We took a tram down to the Financial district, and looked around the enormous Cathedral, which holds around 20,000. Built in the 60's to us it looked more like a large Dalek, due to its unusual shape. We wandered through Lapa District which comes to life in the evenings with street parties and live music. Next we stopped at some steps which have been covered in ceramic tiles from around the world...very bright and interesting to find your own country's. We saw the huge favelas cluttered amongst the rest of the city's buildings. These poor dwellings house anything from 35,000 to a million people. Nearly every building we saw had been marked with graffiti, some of it very artistic. The traffic was manic. Lanes of traffic converging, weaving in and out undertaking and overtaking at speed, but with few collisions . We spent some time on Copacabana beach watching the enormous waves crashing onto the empty beach. Our last stop before returning to the airport was Sugar Loaf Mountain. The haze had cleared enough to get great views across to the Corcovada in the distance, and Copacabana Beach. We could see the various beach districts from there, such as Botofogo, and Flamenca, and the smart marina below to the domestic airport in the distance. We had to take 2 cable cars to get to the summit and it really was worth the view. Our trip was memorable and amazing. We loved it!

27 May 2015

Garuda Airlines hosted a trip to visit Yogyakarta and Bali, where we visited temples, rainforests, beaches and hotels. The airline offers an excellent service and after a long flight we arrived in Yogyakarta, where we stayed at the Hyatt Regency for a couple of nights. The city was once the capital and is a busy, thriving place where you can visit the Sultan's Palace. A good range of hotels are on offer here. About an hour from the city is the very impressive and ancient Borobodur Buddhist Temple, which predates Angkor Wat by 300 years. We also visited the 9th century Hindu Temple of Prambanan, which was fascinating. A couple of nights in this region would allow a trip by jeep to one of the volcanos, and perhaps a ride on an elephant too. We saw rice paddy fields and local farming whilst driving, which was just perfect. An hour’s flight from Yogyakarta is the popular island of Bali. We first visited the family resort of Sanur, which has plenty of stalls, shops, bars and restaurants immediately outside the hotels. It has a safe feel about it and set on a long 5km sandy beach, would be a great choice for an authentic Balinese beach holiday. Further south are the resorts of Nusa Dua and Kuta. Nusa Dua is protected by a security point and houses a number of large resort hotels, again on a long sandy beach. Outside the boundaries of the hotels, there aren't really any places to wander in an evening, although there are stalls selling tourist 'tat' peppered along the beaches. The stall holders pounce on you as you wander by, and bartering would be the name of the game here. Some fabulous hotels along the coast, but to me for an authentic experience, I would prefer Sanur. However if you prefer a hotel based holiday with everything on hand, Nusa Dua would be perfect. Suitable or all ages. We drove through Kuta, which is geared for backpackers and is lined with tacky shops. About 90mins inland from the coast is the rainforest. I would highly recommend a few days up here, as the scenery and vegetation is lush and it is very peaceful. Ubud is the main centre in this area, and is lined with artisan shops, bars and places to eat. You will see local crafts here too. The main road through can get busy, but as soon as you step into the grounds of your chosen hotel, you step into an oasis of calm. There is accommodation in Ubud within walking distance of the shops, but you can also stay a couple of miles out, where you would get a shuttle to Ubud centre. This area is great for couples and honeymooners who want to get away from it all. Perhaps have a yoga class, have a relaxing spa treatment, go hiking, or hire a bike. We visited the Monkey Forest, where under supervision a macaque monkey will perch on your shoulder...a fun experience! Entertainment would be low key in the hotels, but you could enjoy a drink watching the star filled sky and be at peace, maybe listening to a guitarist. We also visited an Agro Tourism Resort, which really was isolated. Ideal for Yoga groups to practice and enjoy a peaceful, healthy getaway. Bagus Agro Pelaga is in central Bali and is 950m above sea level. It is a bit cooler up there and are not bothered by mosquitos, although we did notice some flies when dining al fresco. One evening we took a taxi to Seminyak, which is about 20mins from Nusa Dua. There are numerous bars, music venues and restaurants here. This thriving area attracts the younger generation, and was a great antidote to the quiet resort hotels. Although sometimes very busy on the roads, there was no road rage, no beeping of horns. The Indonesian people are just lovely, subservient, offering fantastic service. We tried many local tasty dishes, which were sometime spicy, but not always. The local beer is good, imported wines are relatively expensive, but they do produce their own. On the whole the cost of living is low. They drive on the same side of the road as we do. Voltage is a 220v 2 pin round European plug. Having experienced both Java and Bali, I would combine the 2 if planning my own holiday. Java offers ancient temples, an authentic Indonesia, whilst Bali has good beaches, rainforest, mountains, forests and lakes. To the north of Bali, the beaches are black volcanic sand, great for diving and much quieter than the south coast, golden sand resorts. From Bali you can get a ferry across to Lombok, which is quieter and great for diving. So all in all, a diverse place to visit which wouldn't disappoint those who like a varied experience.

28 October 2013

I have just returned from a fabulous few days away exploring the Garden Route and Cape Town. We flew into George, midway along the Garden Route, via Johannesburg and transferred to the Fancourt Manor House and Hotel, which is a beautiful hotel with a championship 18 hole golf course. The staff couldn't do enough for us, and added plenty of homely touches to our stay. It is ideally placed to spend a few days exploring the area. Very easy to hire a car, or transfers are possible. About an hour north is Oudtshoorn, where you can visit an ostrich farm, explore fantastic Cango Caves or enjoy some wine tasting. We did just that and returned to the hotel for a relaxing spa treatment, and then cycled around the stunning gardens and golf course. The following day we headed east along the coast. First stop was at Knysna and time spent close to the elephants at Knysna Elephant Sanctuary… fantastic to touch these beautiful creatures! We then continued to Plettenberg Bay, where we donned our wet gear and went whale watching, and managed to see some penguins, and a seal colony too. Great fun keeping watch at sea, even though we all got rather wet! We returned to the Fancourt in time for hot tea and pastries before a relaxing bath. The next morning we took an early flight to Cape Town, which to drive takes 4-5hrs, and drove straight to Steenburg, which is just south of Cape Town on the eastern side of Cape Peninsular. This is an ideal place to stay if you you'd like some peace and quiet. Again the setting was very pretty and next to another good golf course and Steenburg Winery. We had a tour around the winery and a tasting before enjoying an excellent reasonably priced lunch. I noticed it was also busy with locals. Steenburg is about 20mins south of Capetown and they will arrange a transfer twice daily to the V&A Waterfront. You can hire bikes and explore, or drive and easily get to Cape Point, and see the penguin colonies about 10mins away. We drove towards Cape Town via the west coast road to Chapmans Peak and through Camps Bay and Sea Point, which are all places where you could stay as an alternative to Cape Town. I liked the look of Camps Bay, about 20mins from Cape Town, It has a beautiful sandy beach and a real tourist buzz. We headed across from there to Stellenbosch, which is a pretty characterful University town. It has plenty of shops, bars and restaurants. We stayed at Majeka House, which had a really quirky feel to it. Possibly an acquired taste, but certainly memorable. We had a fantastic evening meal here, with a knowledgeable sommelier and an organically locally produced menu. The Springbok was melt in your mouth divine! Next morning we visited Franschoek, a short drive away, and strolled down the main street which was full of pretty boutiques and cafes. We drove to Mont Rochelle on the edge of town, where we had a gourmet tasting, matching 4 local dishes with various wines. The hotel was possibly my favourite, lovely decor, and glorious views across to the mountains. Our drive back to Cape Town took about an hour. We caught sight of Table Mountain, with a clear top and checked in the Victoria Hotel at the V&A Waterfront, just 3 mins walk away. My room had a clear view of Table Mountain. We strolled across to the V&A Waterfront, which buzzed with shoppers, street theatre, craft stalls and cafes. Boats were leaving to visit Robben Island and the surrounding bay. We saw a few seals by the boats too. It would be easy to drive in Cape Town, but if preferred, taxis are abundant, although you have to be careful and get one recommended by the hotel, or they will try and overcharge. There is also a popular open top Hop on Hop Off bus, which is ZAR150 per day and covers 2 routes. We had hoped to go to the top of Table Mountain, but it was too windy. Visitors will queue for hours if there are time limitations due to the weather. We looked around and dined at the Victoria and Alfred hotel, which was formerly a coal warehouse, and so has that industrial chic styling. Many of the hotels have a contemporary interior with grey walls, very typical of the region. Having had my taster trip, I shall definitely return!

05 June 2013

Along with over 100 Gold Travel Counsellors, I was invited to spend a few days sampling all that Abu Dhabi has to offer. My first impression is that the city is clean, and gradually developing. It is not as high rise as Dubai, which is only 90 minutes away by car. It is quite a spread out city, and not a place that is structured for pedestrians. There are some lovely hotels, which would be suited to business or leisure. We stayed at the Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, which is contemporary, with spacious rooms. There is a speciality restaurant owned by Frankie Dettori and Marco Pierre White, serving Italian cuisine. I liked the pool area, which has an inviting pool bar which kept you cool in the 38c heat. The water view rooms have a fantastic view of the Grand Mosque on the opposite shore, which is lit at night. Across the water is the Ritz Carlton hotel, which I found to be very elegant and calm. There are a few things to do beyond relaxing at the hotel. A visit to Yas Island will bring you to the F1 Circuit and Ferrari World, plus a fantastic Water Park. Ferrari World has the world's fastest rollercoaster and is a great place to get away from the heat of the day, as all the activities are inside. There are simulators and shows for those that don't want the high rollers. There are a few hotels in this area too, such as the Rotana, and the Yas Viceroy, which has a colour changing roof once the sun goes down. The tour of the city was interesting, as we visited the Heritage Village, and the Grand Mosque. You get a good feel for the size of the city. We crossed over to Saadiyat Island, which is being developed. By 2030 there will be a Louvre and a Guggenheim museum there, plus villas and hotels. It is a work in progress, but from this island, which looks out over the Arabian Gulf, you will get the most pristine sands and uninterrupted views of the sea. At the moment, there are two hotels completed and a Beach Club- the Park Hyatt and the Regis hotels offer a peaceful getaway. If you are looking for a beach based break in the sun for a few days, it would be a good choice, but you must be aware that the roads leading to the hotels are still under construction. As long as you know that, it wouldn't be an issue. Once inside the hotels, you can forget about the work outside. These hotels are only 20 minutes from the city and Yas Island. Another trip we did was a drive out to Al Ain, some 90 minutes away. This trip was rather disappointing. We spent a total of four hours on the coach, and visited a small museum, an oasis, which didn't have any water, a camel market and a large shopping Mall which had the main UK High St names, such as M&S. The trip was too far to travel for a limited amount of things to see. If shopping was of interest, there were shopping malls that were much nearer to our hotel. So for anyone stopping off for a day or two en route to Australia, or someone on a business trip, or just a place that guarantees sunshine and no rain for a winter break, I think Abu Dhabi would tick the boxes.

26 April 2013

I was fortunate to visit this beautiful part of the world, and had heard a lot about The Lodge, which is one of the luxury properties in the Virgin Limited Edition brand. The Lodge is a 15 minute stroll downhill to the centre of Verbier, in Switzerland, and offers comfortable luxury, yet with a really relaxing vibe. The whole concept is to make guests feel at home with shoes off at the entrance, casual attire and no need to dress for dinner...well, you wouldn't at home would you? Comfy sofas surround a cosy log fire, with a full bar in one corner and you can help yourself to whatever you want. The beds were probably the most comfortable I have ever slept in. The Lodge can sleep 16 adults and up to 6 children. In the winter the whole Lodge must be booked, so it’s great for a few families to get together. During the summer months, and at the beginning and end of the ski season, they do let rooms out individually, for 3, 4 or 7 night stays. To me the staff made the whole experience special. Without exception everyone I spoke to was friendly and helpful and with nothing too much trouble. There is someone there 24 hours a day, and none of the staff will disappear until the last guest has gone. They have a mini bus which will take you down to the village whenever you want. What makes the Lodge special is the food. The head chef will come and explain the menu, where the food is sourced from and how each course has been made. I heard comments from other guests saying that the Chef knew his stuff, and everything I ate was delicious. You could have pretty much anything you liked for breakfast. There are no fancy waiters, just good food brought to you in a relaxing manner. In the evening we joined everyone in the party room downstairs, where there was a 63" flat screen TV, pool table, bar, music and fun and games. We had a couple of local singers to entertain us too. The Lodge has a spa, indoor pool and indoor and outdoor hot tub. They will organise a BBQ or picnic in the mountains or accompany you if you want to snow shoe, or go off for a hike. They also have their own preferred ski instructors. There are plenty of things to do in this area in the summer and winter, aside from skiing and walking. You can go paragliding, ice karting, mountain biking, or get a train to Lake Geneva and visit Montreaux, Lausanne or Geneva. You can even get to the Italian coast in about three hours! If you want something really special and can afford it they can pretty much organise anything, for example your own private helicopter to take you on a trip over the mountains and valleys followed by your own picnic in the mountains, prepared by the chef. That was just one example they gave us. The Lodge offers stays on an all-inclusive basis, and that means all the food and drink eaten at the Lodge are included. Spa treatments are extra, and lunches in the mountains would be additional. To me this would be an excellent choice if you are a lover of good food, and want to spend quality time with friends and family, on a special occasion. The Lodge is sometimes more affordable too in the summer when they sometimes have four nights for the price of three.

18 June 2012

Gold Coast Tourism pulled out all the stops and planned a fabulous varied few days on the Gold Coast, showing all that this region has.This area south of Brisbane has a number of resorts merging along a large stretch of beach. we stayed at Broadbeach and Surfers Paradise. Pristine sands, high rise accommodation and surf is only part of what is on offer here. We had a surf lesson, a gentle boat ride around the many canals, visited a wildlife sanctuary and sampled an exhilarating jet boat ride around the fabulous waterside homes. At Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary, I held a koala and fed the kangaroos as well as viewing other indigenous animals. We spent the night at Reilly's Rainforest Retreat, high in the hills behind Surfers Paradise.The countryside here is very different and ideal for those who enjoy walks amongst the lush green trees. We learnt about the flora and fauna of this area, and even spotted a possum and carpet python on our travels. Another pretty area worth a visit is Mount Tamborine National Park. Here are rivers, rainforest, a pretty waterfall as well as tourist shops and restaurants. We then flew down to Sydney for a couple of days. A 75min flight compared to 14hrs driving. I took a hop on hop off bus around the city. It is very easy to get around. I particularly enjoyed the Rocks in Old Sydney, Darling Harbour and Circular Quay. It was wonderful to see the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. Travelling in May is autumn in Australia. Weatherwise it is an ideal time, as the humidity on the Gold Coast is lower and the temperature a very bearable 24c during the day. Sydney is a few degrees cooler, but still warm enough to wander in shirtsleeves. Shame we didn't have time to experience other areas of Australia!

27 October 2011

I was recently invited to Kalkan and Kas in Western Turkey to inspect a number of holiday properties. I was pleasantly surprised by the standard of accommodation and prettiness of both resorts. We flew on a charter flight to Dalaman and transferred by mini bus to Kalkan, which took about ninety minutes. In 2012, the transfer will take 10 minutes less because there are new road improvements as I write. We stayed at the Lykia Residence, in Kalkan, which is an adult only boutique hotel, and the jewel of the resort. I found it had a modern rustic charm, beautifully decorated and spotlessly clean. The staff couldn't do enough for us. A great choice if you want to get a way for a break. We also looked around a couple of other boutique hotels, the Asfiya and the Oasis. Both of these are more family orientated, but out of the 2, I preferred the Asfiya because there was a good selection of room types and a lovely pool area. From this hotel it took about 10 – 15 minutes to walk to the centre of Kalkan. The Oasis is more central, and I am told they are building a new swimming pool for 2012, which will make a big difference. There were some really lovely villas in Kalkan too. We looked around 4 of them, ranging from 3-5 bedrooms - again, all spotlessly clean and fresh. The larger villas would be ideal for an extended family, maybe parents, teenagers and their friends. Each floor had a bedroom or 2 with balcony and en suite, so if the teenagers had these, they would be pretty self-contained and if their day was different to their parents, they wouldn't really disturb anyone. Typical of me, my favourite was the most expensive, which was a 5 bedroomed villa complete with indoor pool, sauna, and lovely outdoor pool. We also visited Kas and looked around the Kas Peninsular Garden Hotel. Again, this is a small boutique hotel, but the special thing about this one is that most of the rooms have their own pool -spotlessly clean and prettily decorated. They have a shuttle service twice a day into Kas Town, which is about 10mins away. Both Kas and Kalkan have very pretty streets which cry out to be strolled along, filled with bougainvillea and other colourful flowers, and plenty of opportunity for shopping. Leather and silver are particularly good. We ate out in a couple of the local restaurants in Kalkan, and the food was excellent. I loved the authenticity of both places. No high rise buildings and proper Turkish food. In fact Kalkan doesn't have its own beach, but a few beautiful sandy beaches are fairly close by road. It does have a beach club, which is free to use, so you can swim in the sea and sunbathe on the sunbeds provided. There is a pretty marina, where many of the restaurants are to be found. There are also places of real historic interest within an easy drive and the town of Fethiye is about 1 hour away. Both places are excellent for divers and it is possible to take a gulet cruise around the bay too.

26 October 2011

I have a number of places on my ‘Bucket List’ I wish to visit, and right at the top is to see the Rockies. Luckily my wish came true this year. It was just my husband and I this time; we flew into Seattle and spent the night at the Fairmont Seattle before an early start the next day, taking the ferry across to Vancouver Island. On board we booked a trip to Butchart Gardens, which is a must with stunning displays of flora and fauna. The coach dropped us at our hotel the Fairmont Empress, after a tour of Victoria. The following day we had a five min stroll to the coach station behind the hotel for a coach and ferry across to the mainland, and dropped us off at the Fairmont Vancouver. We spent a couple of nights here, taking the hop-on-hop-off bus to take us around the sights, including Stanley Park, Canada Place and Gastown. Then we began our 3000km circular drive, first heading north via Horseshoe Bay to Whistler, where we had our first sight of the snowy peaks. Whistler reminded us of the film The Truman Show, somewhat Disneyesque, as it is a purpose built resort. We headed northwest from there and encountered our first black bear en route to our next stop at Sun Peaks north of Kamloops. Our hotel the Delta Sun Peaks Resort was contemporary and served the best meal we had on the whole trip. Nice resort, which would be a great alternative to Whistler. Next day we had a long drive north west towards Jasper. The scenery was so beautiful that the time flew by with many photo stops en route. On arrival at the Jasper National Park we had to pay for the number of days we were planning to be in the region, as this pays for the upkeep of the roads and facilities, so be prepared to have some cash to hand. Luckily the weather was glorious, so we had clear cloudless views of Mount Robson and other mountain peaks. Our hotel just outside of Jasper was the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, which was rustically styled, set on a beautiful lake, just a five minute drive from Jasper itself, and surrounded again by beautiful scenery. We took the Jasper tramcar up to a neighbouring peak which gave uninterrupted views of Jasper and the surrounding area. The highlight of our trip was the journey between Jasper and Lake Louise, which takes in the Icefield Parkway. Our 3 hour trip took us 7 hours to complete as the scenery is so breathtaking. Two thirds of the way along, we stopped at the Athabasca Glacier, and drove onto the Glacier in the Icefield Snow-Coach – what a memorable experience! At every turn there was mountains, lakes, wildlife and places to stop for a short walk. All the roads were well maintained and easy to drive. Everything was well sign posted, and plenty of places to pull in, complete with clean toilet cabins and picnic tables. We arrived at our next hotel, the Fairmont Lake Louise early in the evening to see the sun retreating behind the Glacier across the Lake. We splashed out and enjoyed a Lake View room, as this iconic sight was worth waking up to the next morning. We strolled around the lake, taking heed of the many ‘Beware of bear’ signs - just beautiful. Next we drove out of town to a cable car which took us up to grizzly bear country! Unfortunately we didn't see any, but others mentioned they had spotted some between the trees. Then we enjoyed more mountain views and headed south towards Banff. The next day we started our trip east back towards Vancouver, passing through the Glacier National Park, and stopping overnight in Revelstoke with a local family, who gave us inside info on the town as a ski resort and local area. We detoured slightly to enjoy a circular trip which took us across a couple of lakes on free local ferries before arriving at Kamloops. Kamloops is probably the least scenic of all the places we visited, but the Holiday Inn and Suites was perfect for our overnight stay before our drive to Vancouver Airport. The trip lived up to our expectations and rates as one of the best holidays we have had.

23 November 2011

I decided to take advantage of the fact that my daughter was spending time studying in Moscow to visit both St Petersburg and Moscow, as we would have our own personal guide to take us around the popular sites in both cities. On arrival at St Petersburg, we transferred to our hotel the Novotel Centrum, in a quiet spot, just off Nevsky Prospekt , which is the main shopping street in St Petersburg. I hadn't really known what to expect, and had visions of long queues for food at grey looking outlets, so was pleasantly surprised to find St Petersburg is a beautiful city, complete with Western shopping centres, with M&S and Top Shop. The architecture is a photographers dream. Many buildings are painted with a pale yellow exterior, and there are many beautiful churches with interiors that put our own to shame, embellished with much gold. Our daughter met us the following morning having got the overnight train from Moscow to St Petersburg. We wanted to visit the Hermitage first thing, and as it was a fairly long walk from the hotel, we took a local marchrutka ( mini bus) down the length of Nevsky Prospekt to the Hermitage. Had we not had our Russian speaking daughter with us it would have been totally confusing. You board the minibus, and then fare is passed through the other travellers to the front to the driver, all in Russian. I hadn't a clue what was going on, when someone handed me money! The Hermitage has long queues which can be avoided if on a guided tour . You can spend all day inside wandering around the magnificent rooms, marvelling at the famous art work within. From there it's an easy walk to St Isaac's Cathedral and then on to the Church of Spilled Blood. Even if you aren't religious, the buildings are very impressive. Both St Isaacs and the Church of Spilled Blood will take your breath away. Our 1st evening meal was at a Russian chain, a bit like the Harvester, but a Russian version. My daughter wanted us to sample real Russian food. I enjoyed the Borsch soup, but couldn't eat the Beef Stroganoff, which was strips of meat braised in lard I think, on a bed of overcooked ribbon pasta, also cooked in lard, with a dollop of sour cream on top. Yuk! The following morning we took a metro under the River Neva to Peter and Paul Fortess. This is a citadel which holds the first prison, where you could walk around the cells, and see who occupied them; well known names such as Lenin's brother, Dostoevsky and Trotsky. The citadel is also home to St Peter & Paul Cathedral, which houses the tombs of the Tsars, including the last resting place of Nicholas & Alexandra and family - all very poignant. We took a train out to Catherine the Great's Palace at Pushkin and again if we hadn't had our guide with us, we would have been lost. On arrival at Pushkin we had to get another marchrutka which dropped us off outside the Palace gates. We were one of a few non-Russian speaking tourists there, which meant we didn't have to go around with the Russian speaking guide and could enjoy the interior at our leisure. Again the palace was a magnificent building with ballrooms decorated in blues and golds. I imagine this is where Cinderella met her prince! On another occasion we took a bus out to Peterhof Palace, which looks out onto the Gulf of Finland, again another impressive building. We were there a little early in the season and missed the beautiful fountain water displays which were due to be turned on for the summer in May. I particularly enjoyed the gardens here, and could see that when the fountains were on, it would be stunning. We then took the overnight train to Moscow and checked into our Ibis Hotel. The train was an experience, quite comfortable and I did manage to sleep. We visited all the famous places in Moscow, Red Square, the Kremlin, which was much larger than expected, as the walls surround many museums and churches, the Space Museum, Gum department store. The traffic was manic here, and got around by metro with the help of our guide. Our final day in this area took us out to one of the Golden Ring towns called Sergeev Posad which is spiritual home of the Russian Orthodox Church. Fantastic!

31 March 2009

I have recently returned from a short trip to Dubai to see how the city has developed. Dubai is continually developing with many ongoing projects. What struck me was how unusual and striking the architecture is. We saw the tallest building, the Burj Dubai, opening in Sept 09, adjacent to the largest shopping mall, the Dubai Mall. Ten minutes from there we witnessed skiers and snowboarders enjoying real snow runs in the Ski Dome, attached to another vast shopping mall, the Mall of the Emirates. Another 10 mins further on we came to the Marina area, from where you could access the first of three Palm Islands. At the head of this island is the large resort of Atlantis, worth a visit even if just to look around the aquarium. Along the marina area are a variety of excellent hotels, all on the sandy beach, looking out to Palm Island. A few miles further along the coast is the Jumeirah beach area, where the iconic Burj al Arab Hotel stands. There is no current development in this area, so if you are after a beach break, then this could be the place to choose. Worth a visit too is the Deira area, where life centres on Dubai Creek. This is the older original part of Dubai. We visited the Dubai Museum, where they have interesting displays showing traditional life in Dubai, and replicas of the pearl fishermen's boats and dhows, the large boats that sail up and down the creek. From here we crossed the creek on the traditional abras, which are small boats which ferry people across to the souks on the other side of the creek. We had fun bartering in the various souks. Start at a third of the price asked and work up to a half. The souks are divided into different areas. The Spice Souk gave off exciting aromas, whilst the Gold Souk glittered with jewellery. I loved the beautiful material on display in the area where you'd find upholstery and fabrics...an interior designer’s heaven. Before I travelled to Dubai, I wondered if the building development would mar the enjoyment of this richly diverse city. I don't believe it does. True, at every turn a new road is under construction, and the monorail is being developed all over the city, but I noticed that even partly completed buildings had attractive fascias. So to me it just made it an interesting venture to watch. Dubai is a city of superlatives: tallest, largest, and most unusual. It will appeal to those wanting to relax on the beautiful beaches, to those who enjoy excellent food and service, who like to see the Arabian culture, or just enjoy some time shopping and bartering. It takes about 20 mins to get to the coast or the city from the airport. The flight took just over 6 hours, which was long enough to enjoy a film or two on board.