Marrakech

I never know which language I should be speaking in Marrakech. Although English is widely understood, I think it’s only polite to greet people in their native tongue. It does get a bit confusing when you greet someone in Arabic and they reply in French though! On the whole, Moroccans are a fun loving bunch and I’m sure they do it just for laughs, or maybe it’s just me.

The Arabic hospitality, ancient traditions, good weather and a four hour flight combine to make a great weekend break and arriving into Menara airport as the sun sets over the Atlas mountains is a wonderful way to start.

There is a large poster at the airport taxi rank which clearly explains that the fare into town is 50 Dirhams and then goes on to tell you that you should pay double what is on the meter! I’ve never understood why, it’s always been like that. But that’s Morocco for you.

I stayed at the Le Meridien N’fis which is just outside the city walls on Avenue Mohammed VI but as Marrakech is quite compact it’s only 10 minutes taxi ride to the very hub of the city, the Djemmaa El Fna. This huge square, surrounded by cafes, restaurants and shops, is full of stalls selling everything from freshly squeezed orange juice to leather handbags and as the sun goes down the tempo rises, snake charmers, story tellers and restaurants seemingly appear from nowhere and ply their trade into the early hours.

Just behind the square is the main souk. This labyrinthine warren of ceramics, leather and spices extends for what seems like miles. It’s very easy to get lost in here - I speak from experience, but it’s certainly an adventure and there are big bargains to be had on leather goods, beautiful ceramics and fantastic metal lampshades if you barter hard enough.

To escape the hustle and bustle take a taxi to the Majorelle Gardens. Built by the painter Jacques Majorelle in 1947 and now owned by Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, they are a haven of tranquillity. Wander through some incredible cacti and bamboo and find shaded corners and pergolas painted in that unique Moroccan blue. It's a gentle, relaxing way to spend an afternoon.

The Tagine is the national dish and while there are some excellent places on the edge of the Fna, strolling away from the square with the Club Med behind you, there are some fantastic little riads where dinner for two can be had for about fifteen pounds although these are rarely licensed, which is a shame as Moroccan wine is very good. So it’s back to Le 6, a bar/restaurant on Ave. Mohammed VI, a stone’s throw from the hotel for a nightcap.