Marrakesh Express
Day 1 The flight to Marrakesh’s bright modern airport is only 3 hours, the drive into the city around half an hour and my first impressions were of a clean and verdant environment – with beds of flowering roses bordering the highway. After freshening up we were driven the short distance to the Medina – the old city - and began our walking tour through crazy chaotic traffic conditions: cars, mopeds, donkeys, horses, bikes, hand-carts, along colourful, noisy streets with a fascinating mix of trades – metal-workers, tyre-repair bays, carpet sellers, spice shops, cafes. But inside the gates of the Bahia Palace it’s an oasis of peace and tranquility: birdsong, flowers and the sound of water – our guide explained the Berber tradition to hide all evidence of wealth and success within the walls but to spare no expense with the decoration within. Most buildings have a plain wall facing outwards, with rooms facing inwards to a courtyard garden with a fountain – a peaceful cloister with the sounds of ‘God’s symphony’, many also have gardens and terraces on the roof: this proved to be the case with all the riads we visited within the old city.
Day 2 On the drive into the Atlas Mountains (an hour+ from the city) we were told that the road has been much improved recently, but it’s still pretty challenging with tortuous bends overlooking deep ravines so I was glad we had a professional driver. Stunning scenery past Berber villages, some of which are still only accessible by foot, and a souk (every Tuesday) that has a donkey-park where locals pay a few dirhams to park their donkey whilst shopping or trading! We visited Kasbah Tamadot – located in beautiful valley with views of snow-capped mountains, a gorgeous spot to chill out; and later took tea at Kasbah Angour, a little closer to Marrakesh, a beautiful place with a very different style. Activities in the mountains include trekking, mountain-biking, horse, camel or donkey riding, guided trips to Berber villages and souks or just relaxing. Returning to Marrakesh we check into the wonderfully luxurious and quirky Riad La Sultana, where each room and suite is unique, individually decorated and furnished with animal themes. After a short relaxing dip in the hotel’s spa pool we walk into the maze of the old city to visit another hidden gem Les Jardins de la Medina, where we have dinner.
Day 3 Bargain-hunting in the souk today: walking across the square with snake charmers and street performers to enter the maze of covered alleys and open squares that are a riot of colour and clamour, with goods of all descriptions displayed for sale – but no prices! Haggling is the norm and even if you’re not buying, watching the sparring is very entertaining and an experience not to be missed! After lunch at the legendary Hotel La Mamounia – reopened after extensive refurbishment, we have some free time and I choose the peace and tranquility of the hotel pool instead of returning to the hustle and bustle of the streets outside. Our final hotel inspection this evening is the Four Seasons – a very modern resort complex between the city and the airport. 3 days, 3 beds (including 1 at Gatwick airport) 10 fabulous hotels, 3 breakfasts, 3 lunches, 3 dinners, In the Medina we visited Riad Palais Sebban, Les Jardins de la Katoubia, Riad la Sultana, Les Jardins de La Medina, La Mamounia Outside the Medina we visited Es Saadi Hotel, Es Saadi Palace Hotel and Villas, Four Seasons Hotel In the Atlas Mountains we visited Kasbah Tamadot, Kasbah Angour The food is lovely – a mélange of sweet and spicy, vegetables and meat cooked to perfection – you must try a traditional Moroccan meal – starter of mixed mezzes followed by chicken tagine with preserved lemons and olives, then flaky fried pastry with cream – we did, several times! Although this is a Muslim country it does not have strict alcohol laws and it is possible to have wine with meals and there are bars and nightclubs.
I liked Marrakech – it’s a vibrant chaotic city but with lots of quiet, peaceful spaces and beautiful gardens: a great place for a short break or a longer holiday twinned with the Atlas Mountains or a beach resort.