Hluhluwe–Imfolozi Park

After leaving Rorkes Drift we drove for seemingly miles on gravel roads until finally we reached tarmac, and began to make good time on our journey. We knew the park closed at 6pm and thankfully we made it through the gates long before then, and started the slow drive to our lodge, always looking for something, anything.

Many times we said hopefully, “Is that a rhino?”, when it was simply just a rock minding its own business. As you get used to the surroundings, you do start to notice animals moving against the foliage. We did see a rhino on the way to the lodge , but thought better of sticking around to observe - I didn’t think the hire car would fare too well against it.

We drove through the gates to the lodge just before dark, and were surprised to be told after dark we had to be escorted to our rooms by security, no half measures here. We had a 3 night stay at Rhino Ridge, and its position over looking the plain below gave us ample times to spot wildlife, with elephant and giraffe frequently being seen. The food here was very good, as was the wine.

Part of the agreement of the lodge construction was that staff were to be taken from nearby communities and trained to work in the lodge. Our first morning (and every morning) was an early start at 6 am for coffee and danish, in time to join our dawn game drive. Well wrapped up, 4 of us climbed onto the back of the vehicle and set off through the lodge gates in search of wildlife, I swear it was like being in Jurassic Park. We spent around 4 hours driving around, with one very welcome stop for refreshments all served very civilised from a table brought by our guide.

We lost count at what we saw, rhino, elephants, giraffe, impala, buffalo. Twisted necks and searching eyes straining to spot the next animal. The days are well structured at a lodge, after the dawn drive you return to the lodge for a hearty breakfast, and a bit more wildlife spotting, until around 2:30 when you are served with a light snack before joining the sundowner game drive. So not only do you sit in the comfort of the truck all looking to spot game, but as the sun goes down, your guide takes you to one of the many rest stops, and expertly sets up table offering snacks and drinks to toast the sunset, we could certainly get used to this. The sundowner drive could take anywhere from between 3-6 hours depending on how far you get away from the lodge, and there is ALWAYS something to see. Once back at the lodge, it's time to eat - again!

We did something special on our last full day, we joined another couple and a guide to do a bush walk, in the open. We left the lodge just as dawn was breaking and headed out. We parked just off the track near to some zebra (as y’do) and our guide took us aside and explained his life and the life of nature in the park. He also gave us a short pre flight check on what to do and not to do if approached by animals. He also had a rifle, we all hoped he didn’t have to use it. It was quite strange walking through the park wondering if eyes were watching you, hopefully them more wary of you.

As we walked silently in the park, we noticed he was barefoot, none more so when we stopped next to some elephant dung, which he then temperature tested with his feet, confidently informing us that it was fresh, and elephants were close.

The highlight by a mile was to come face to face with a fully grown white rhino and her calf. Our guide directed us to freeze, make no sound, which it turned out was quite easy to do. We watched them, they watched us, and after about 15 minutes of grazing and sniffing the air, they got bored and wandered off. I swear I had held my breath the whole time. Then surprisingly our guide presented us with water and the crunchiest apple I had ever eaten, and we all crunched away, the rhino still close by.

We made our way back to the truck just taking in all nature around us, not to mention the zebra and other rhino we passed on the way.

Over lunch we noticed a family of giraffe down on the plain about 15 minutes drive from the lodge. That afternoon we left the lodge to drive to our next stop at St Lucia on the coast, but before we left the park we were so very lucky to cross paths with the giraffes, standing only feet from the track. We stopped the car, and ran silent, for almost 30 minutes, not speaking to each other, so close to these magnificent animals. We must have taken hundreds of photos of anything and everything, and it was so well worth it, and we had one final little smile as we exited the park - two juvenile elephants appeared from nowhere at the side of the road, a fitting way to bid farewell to the park.