Hong Kong - The Inside View
Did you know the name Hong Kong means ‘fragrant harbour’ and it was given this name due to the amount of incense offloaded from ships.
With careful planning around other travel arrangements, it is quite easy to be able to get around to see all the major sights in a relaxed way.
Top of most people’ list of things to do are Big Buddha and Victoria Peak.
When visiting Big Buddha on Lantau island I’d allow almost a full day. It takes around 45 minutes by MTR to get to the final stop at Tung Chung. There are several ways to reach Ngong Ping village, most opting for the cable car trip up and over the hills. The trip takes around 40 minutes and you get a great view of the new bridge link to Macau and Hong Kong International Airport. Once at the top, there is a mini tourist village with lots of shops and food outlets. It’s a short walk to the steps up to the Big Buddha, but be warned its quite a climb, especially in the heat of summer. You can also reach Ngong Ping by way of a public bus and of course by the ever-present taxi.
Victoria Peak looks over the harbour. A good rule of thumb as to whether it is worth visiting is that if you can see the peak, take the trip, as it can frequently be covered by mist and fog. An interesting way to reach the top is by the tram. Spending the 10-minute ride sitting at a 45 degree angle, the queues for this can be long and tiresome.
Sometimes it is far easier to make your own way up by taxi, and take the tram back down. Once at the summit you can see as far as the hills leading to the New Territories, the old airport at Kai Tak which is now a cruise terminal, and of course the harbour front at Kowloon.
Another thing not well known is that there is a peak walk. It takes around 45 minutes to an hour and is mostly tree lined, until you make your way around to the island side facing the harbour. It gives you a different view of the area and good photographic opportunities.
On the way down from the peak, you can visit the cathedral and look over the iconic HSBC bank building.
On the island side you can take a tram all the way from Western Market to Happy Valley. The tramlines also indicate the original harbour front before land reclamation extended into the harbour. The tram is a great, slow way to take in the area, but be warned it is a boneshaker of a ride.
Speaking of Happy Valley, the great and good of Hong Kong will make their way to the racecourse on Wednesday nights in winter. It is not all about horseracing, the entrance fee is very small, and like most things Hong Kong, can be paid for by the ubiquitous Octopus card, which is a must have. A great time to get there is before dusk, and watch the surrounding skyscrapers light up the sky. The other racecourse at Sha Tin also has meetings during the winter, running on a Sunday, in daylight.
Also in the Sha Tin area is the Temple of 10,000 Buddhas which is quite a hike up a steep hill to several pavilions. Once you reach the top it is very tranquil and probably not what you’d expect, and though I haven’t counted everyone, there must be near 10,000 Buddhas. Also in the nearby mall is a small Snoopy World.
A short walk along the canal from Snoopy World is the Hong Kong Heritage Museum. Entrance is free and well worth a visit.
Another must see on many lists is Stanley Market on the south side of the island. It’s a common place for tourists, locals and expats to spend their weekends. The front is bordered with bars and restaurants, and is punctuated at either end by Stanley Plaza at one, and the famous market at the other. The market itself is covered after a fashion, though it does give welcome shelter against both the sun and the rain. During the week, it can be very quiet unless a cruise ship is in town.
You can find some good quality local souvenirs here, especially local fabrics, lacquer ware, prints and paintings. If you feel adventurous take the public bus back to Central. It takes you back over the island and lays it out below you as you travel back.
Food plays a major part of any visit. Many of the outlying islands have seafood restaurants, and one on Lamma will organise boat transport from central to the restaurant. Sai Kung in New Territories is famed for is seafood restaurants, they line the harbour front where you can either eat from a set menu, or select your own fish from the vast tanks. The area was featured by The Hairy Bikers TV show, Asian Adventures, fame at last for our little village. A good place for any local food is the daipaidongs on many of the streets in central, and of course Dim Sum available anywhere, but local favourite restaurants are the Din Tai Fung outlets in many malls.
If you crave western food, you won’t go hungry. From Starbucks and Pacific Coffee shops to high end Michelin star restaurants which can be found in most parts of the city. Check out the Dining Concepts group of restaurants, there are two on the harbour front Kowloon side, a very nice way to spend a weekend lunchtime having brunch overlooking the harbour.
A little off the beaten track at Diamond Hill is Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Gardens. Free to get in, the gardens provide a real breath of fresh air from the surrounding noise and traffic.
The gardens themselves are immaculately kept and feature many kinds of bonsai and other trees. The pavilions have exhibitions of local craftsmen and entrance is free on Wednesdays, though even at other times its only $20 HKD. There is a very nice gift shop and vegetarian coffee shop. The gardens also have what is purported to be the best vegetarian restaurant in Hong Kong, in a lovely spot situated behind a waterfall.
For the more adventurous wanting to get out of the city, there are many hiking opportunities and there are several local islands and you can reach them by regular, cheap ferries.
It is also easy to visit Macau by ferry and the Chinese border city of Shenzhen is only 20 minutes by train. Visas may be obtained at the border.
I hope that’s given you an insider’s view on Hong Kong, over and above what’s in the guide books. There really is no substitute for local knowledge.