KwaZulu Natal Summer 2017

Graham Parker on 16 July 2017
On July 1st we stepped off the aircraft to a clear blue, warmish sky at Durban airport. It wasn’t long before our luggage was delivered and we collected our car to begin our 2 week exploration of Kwa Zulu Natal.

Welcome to South Africa.

Even after a long flight we were eager to get on the road to our first stop on the outskirts of the Maloti Drakensberg Park at the Champagne Castle hotel. The drive took us through many vistas from hills to flatlands, until we began the steady climb to Central Drakensberg. We arrived at the hotel just in time for an afternoon tea of scones and cake, all very welcome after the 3 hour drive. We quickly settled into our room facing the stunning mountains and ‘sphynx rock’. The hotel itself was very comfortable, food choice was extensive, all served buffet style with several (some could say too many) choices. We never left the dining room hungry. Another nice touch for us, was the over 18 bar and lounge, where adults could sit in the relative peace of a child free environment.

We had 3 nights here and was able, on both our mornings, after breakfast to join the hotel's own guided walks into the hills. Not too arduous and a good excuse to keep fit and work up an appetite. Our guide effortlessly climbing hills. There we were very safe, as we weren’t in a park that contained game, so we could walk freely around the property.

All too soon we had to leave and continue our drive north, this time to Rorkes Drift. We passed through many townships on the way, the tarmac road eventually giving way to gravel in the less populated areas. Just before dusk we pulled into the entrance way to the Rorkes Drift Hotel. We were surprised to find we were the only residents, and we spoilt by both the staff and resident dogs, who always seemed to find an excuse to look for us for a quick tickle behind the ears. Charles the hotel owner, also was on hand to really bring alive what happen there and the battle at Isandlwana. The morning of our full day there, he walked us through the battlefields and the characters that fought there. It really helped make our visit come to life, remembering his stories as we visited the museum and the battlefield at Isandlwana. We later visited the mission and hospital at Rorkes Drift where arguably the greatest battle of the campaign took place. It was all very atmospheric and moving.

The following day we set off early for our journey to Umfolozi-Hulhulwe, and our stay on a game reserve. Please check out my other blogs for a report.

From there we drove around 3hours to St Lucia, quite a unique setting. Crime free except for the hippos(!). We were advised not to go out at night as it wasn’t safe, and we initially thought our hotel was in a dodgy area, but no, it was because after dark, the hippos had a habit of roaming the streets. We would be safe in town, but were told to remain in well lit areas. On our full day here, we drove into the Cape Vidal National park, and made the 70 km round trip to the top of the park, where we had lunch on the beach, watching the humpbacks breach just offshore. Makes me smile even now.

We only spent two nights in St Lucia, and would like to spend more time there, but time is short and more miles to be driven. We set off early to drive back down to Durban, and a treat to stay in the renowned Oyster Box Hotel, at Umhlanga, north of Durban.

Unfortunately the weather, (we’d had nothing but blue sky since arriving) decided not to play fair and for the 4 days we were in Durban, it rained, every day. We did manage a drive and a walk at the promenade in Durban, a small shopping expedition, and a highlight was meeting up with a friend we’d known from our time in Hong Kong, she’d left in 2016 to further her studies. Luckily, she was home in Durban for the summer, so we drove into the country and met at a small private game reserve, with her parents, and some friends, who just happened to be a direct descendant of David Livingstone. We had a lovely last day with them, him telling us of his and relatives past. Unbelievable.

Last day we drove back to the airport, dropped off the dusty dirty car, and flew to Jo’berg to continue our adventures, but that’s another story - to be continued!