Mozambique Marine Adventure - Part l
When we returned, the lodge had laid on a braai, or what we would call a BBQ. The food was amazing, all kinds of meat on offer, salads and potatoes, with dessert too. A lovely way for the group to come together, get to know each other and share travelling stories.
The following morning, we got the first glimpse of the stunning view from our lodge, but all too soon we were back on the bus and heading for the border to Mozambique. The crossing was fairly straightforward, then we drove off the 20 km to Ponto Do Ouro, and sand roads - yes sand roads. Once you cross the border, the tarmac of South Africa, ending replaced by sand. The van was unable to drive over this so we all transferred into safari type vehicles for the 20 km drive to our next hotel.
We had two marine encounters planned, but hope wasn’t high for the first one, as the weather and wind had closed in, the swell was too large, making us feel really glad we brought some seasickness pills. Following morning, we took a walk to the lighthouse, which is usually off limits (but we knew a guy). It was strange climbing a hill of sand, certainly gave the legs a good workout, and we were rewarded with a great view into Mozambique and down into South Africa.
From there it was time for our second attempt at some wildlife interaction. We headed up the coast, saw whales, but no dolphins. Our boat stopped at a reef for us to have a snorkel, then it was back on the boat, we thought that was it, and would be disappointed, then the captain spotted some dolphins, we got ahead of them and cut the engine. We were in the care of the researchers at dolphincare.org, who specialise in dolphin research and they manage all interactions. They told us, if the dolphins get inquisitive, we would be allowed to slip into the water, as quietly as possible, and if we were lucky the dolphins would come and have a look.
We were very lucky, we spent around 20 minutes in the water with them, at one point I thought I’d taken the space of another swimmer, and made move to apologise, when I realised it was a couple of dolphins giving me the eye. It was an unforgettable experience. We were told by our guide to get back on the boat as the dolphins were beginning to lose interest in us, and we’d have one more attempt at a swim. We did enter the water a second time, the second swim was shorter, though just as memorable as the first.
Next few days were long days in the van. We left Porto Do Ouro by taxi van, again on sand roads, until we met up with the new Chinese built road, in the middle of nowhere, this then took us to the capital Maputo, where we’d stay for one night before continuing north to our most northern stop of Vilinkulos. In all we had 3 separate stops for one night in very diverse places, one hotel just outside Maputo was at an art hotel, where Jane and I, and two others shared the Penthouse Suite, which consisted of 4 double bedrooms and en suites and a huge dining area, if we’d been there any more nights, am sure we’d have had a party. Again we all got together over dinner, the group becoming more friendly as the days and miles passed.
We had to take a ferry over the river to continue our journey and it was fascinating to see the locals just go about their normal lives. We then headed north onto Xai Xai (so good they named it twice), again staying at a unusual accommodation, a lodge built on a hill overlooking a beautiful beach. We quickly settled in and joined some of the others at a beach bar to toast the sunset. Next morning a few of us got up early for the sunrise at 06:15 and were rewarded with the most colourful start to a day. Not to mention the ubiquitous whales swimming up the coast. A quick breakfast and off again, putting the miles behind us, for lunch today its worth a mention we stopped at a small roadside café. Our guide took a chance it would still be there since his last visit many years before. Thankfully it was and we were served a traditional mince butty, which would be the best way to describe it, though it was much tastier than that, it seemed to contain onions and something sweet , which we couldn't quite place, all served in a flat bun, with a coffee, and very nice it was too.
That night's accommodation was something special, somewhat rustic on the beach, shared kitchen and bathrooms (between 4). Huge comfy bed, no windows, just wood slats and mossie nets, no A/C. only the gently breeze from the shore only feet way. I swear it was the most restful night I had all trip, and that was taking into account the several nights of 5 star luxury we’d had in KwaZulu Natal. Dinner was prepared by our guide, and then we all sat by the fire on the beach for some stargazin. Quite a day.
The next day was a relatively short drive to Vilinkulos, where we could de camp and stretch out for three nights. Our accommodation here was better than expected. The group took over a whole house, and had our very own chef, who not only cooked breakfast for us in the house, he also accompanied us on our dhow trips at sea, where he prepared beautiful food over an open fire on the dhow itself. Here we relaxed and had two very different days at sea visiting nearby islands.
The first was a short sail away, and we were rewarded with a drift snorkel with the incoming tide. One of the first things I saw was a Lion Fish, very beautiful. No matter where you looked something would grab your attention. After a good while in the water, it was time to dry off and eat more barbecued fish and accompanying salad. Some of us took off around the island to climb the dunes, which was easier said than done.
Second day was a longer boat trip to two mile reef, just as the tide was turning we spent around an hour just hanging around, fish types and numbers to varied to mention. Another lunch on the beach before heading back to the house, where our chef Alfredo once again cooked us an amazing meal, leaving us only to pack and get ready for the trip to Tofu, which would turn out to be the highlight of the tour.