Kwa Zulu Natal, South Africa Part 2.

Jan Ledger on 23 June 2011
Our arrival at Thanda Private Game Reserve was well timed to coincide with afternoon tea before setting off for our afternoon game drive in an open topped jeep. Within minutes we stumbled across three lions and were able to watch as they drank from a waterhole. After various animal sightings, including two cheetahs, we stopped for ‘sundowners’ in the bush and admired the vast, clear African sky at night. A 5.30 start the next morning enabled us to watch the sun rise over the bush and see zebra, giraffe, African wild dogs, nyala, impala, warthogs and elephant, all metres from our jeep. Thanda, meaning ‘love’ in Zulu, is South Africa’s top award winning safari destination. Thanda offers nine private circular villas all with their own private deck with infinity pool, thatched sala for game viewing and private outdoor dining boma. There is also a luxury tented camp and a Royal Private Villa for exclusive use with its swimming pool and waterhole. Departure for the iSimangaliso Wetlands (formerly Greater St Lucia) and our boat trip came too soon. South Africa’s first natural heritage site and largest natural park extending from Cape St Lucia in the south to Kozi Bay in the north. The largest mammal to be found here in the seas is the humpback whale and the largest on land is the African elephant. It is home to the largest population of hippos and to more than 1,000 crocodiles. Over 500 species of birds inhabit or pass through the area. A breeding ground for both the loggerhead and leatherback turtles as well as a home to many other species of animal. St Lucia is a relaxed, seaside town and our one night’s stay here at Amazulu Lodge was certainly not long enough to take in all the area has to offer. Another early start ensured we arrived in Durban (three hour drive south) in good time for our boat trip in search of the South African sardine run. This occurs usually occurs May/July when billions of sardines spawn in the south and make their way northwards. Shoals can be up to 7km long, 1.5km wide and 30m deep and are visible from the surface and spotter planes. This draws many predators such as sharks, dolphins, seals, whales and numerous sea birds in a frenzy of feeding. Unfortunately, we were a little too early as the main shoal was still slightly south of Durban. We were not too disappointed as many dolphins joined us on our journey, jumping and frolicking around our boat. After an exciting morning at sea it was off to Florida Road to lunch on the local delicacy, ‘Bunny Chow’, Durban's version of fast food and on to explore Victoria Street and the Muthi Markets. The latter’s stalls are crammed with organic ingredients which range from crocodile teeth to snake skins to bird claws and a variety of plants and mysterious powders used by the Sangomas (herbal medicine practitioners) to prescribe appropriate cures for their patients! Then it was off to The Oyster Box Hotel on the beach at Umhlanga Rocks about 20 minutes north of Durban for our last night. This iconic landmark has recently been totally refurbished to offer guests a vibrantly contemporary experience and, like its famous lighthouse, once again acts as a beacon of exceptional hospitality, luxurious accommodation and personal service unmatched in all Africa. Following our farewell breakfast, including oysters and champagne, we headed back to Durban to see the Southern Sun's Elangeni Hotel, brilliantly situated on Durban's Golden Mile, 200 metres from the beach and the warm inviting Indian Ocean. The hotel is also the base for Bike & Saddle who offer eco-friendly cycle tours, which can be a short tour of the beach front and city, longer trips or providing a bike for your own exploration. The Beverly Hills Hotel, also on the beach at Umhlanga Rocks in sight of the protective lighthouse, was the last stop on our very much whistle stop tour. Fine dining and exquisite sea facing rooms make this a great place to stay. A superb lunch was had by all with the chef providing a special trio of chocolate desserts to send us on our way to the airport 12 kms away for our short flight to Johannesburg. We finally boarded our South African night flight for the eleven and a half hour journey home overwhelmed by the vastness, the sights and sounds and experiences of Kwa Zulu Natal. I hope I can return soon! Ngiyabonga!