Dubrovnik, Croatia

Jo Baldwin on 02 August 2017
As anyone who’s ever talked to me about travel knows, Croatia is my favourite place on earth, and I never grow tired of going back there on holiday. This time I revisited Dubrovnik, where I worked as a tour leader 10 years ago for Explore Worldwide. I was excited to go back and see how things had changed and visit some of my favourite hotels in the area.

We went for a week, staying in a two-bedroom apartment Villa Curic located in Lapad, about 10 minutes bus ride from the old town overlooking Gruz Port. The apartments were excellent - clean, spacious and with a huge terrace with sweeping views overlooking Lapad and the port, so we could watch the cruise ships come and go. There was a small rooftop pool and, even better, a winery where they make their own wine in huge vats!

Dubrovnik sits at the southernmost point of Croatia’s Adriatic coast-a stretch of seafront that’s famous for its crystal-clear waters. Jaw dropping stone walls encircle the old city of Dubrovnik, and the imposing medieval walls have never been breached. You can walk the entire, 1940 m diameter on top of the walls, and see for yourself the dizzy drops and heights where the walls meet the sea.

One of the highlights of our trip was sea kayaking at sunset, which was extremely tiring but lots of fun. Our effort was rewarded with a stunning sunset, which we watched whilst bobbing in our kayaks not too far from the old town. The trip lasted around three hours, and we ended up kayaking all the way around uninhabited Lokrum Island. We stopped to explore caves and have a swim. The whole experience was excellent and ended with yet more lovely Croatia wine, but only once we’d got out of the kayaks!

The three-island boat trip by galleon was a brilliant day out from Dubrovnik and took us to the small and totally unspoilt islands of Kolocep, Šipan and Lopud. The wooden galleon-style boat moored on each island, giving us long enough to swim off the sandy beaches and sample local cafés and restaurants before sailing onwards to the next destination. A great way to get around and see a sample of these beautiful Elaphite islands.

We also took a daytrip on a minibus to see Korcula town, which involves driving along the Pelješac peninsula to Orebic village and then a short ferry ride across from the mainland to the island of Korcula. Korcula town is nicknamed ‘mini-Dubrovnik’ and is picture-perfect in every way. From the clear blue waters that surround the town to the stunning medieval walls and narrow cobbled streets, it’s easily possible to while away an afternoon wandering around taking in the views and exploring the numerous small jewellery shops and cool bars.

Although this was my own holiday, I’m never off duty for long, so I visited three of my top-selling hotels in the area, so I could see them all for myself.

Hotel Croatia is in sleepy Cavtat town, around 30 to 45 minutes from Dubrovnik, and close to the airport. The hotel is 5-star and has a very modern, clean feel to it with minimalist, non-fussy design. The sea view rooms are most certainly worth the extra cost-the views are jaw dropping. Top Tip: If you want to be on the same level as the swimming pool, you need a room on floor level five. The hotel is on top of a very steep hill, so it’s not ideal if you have walking difficulties. However, a golf buggy shuttle service runs regularly down into Cavtat town and to the beach bar and waterfront area which is lined with restaurants and cafés where you can watch the boats come and go. The hotel is on the flight path, but the incoming flights were infrequent, and I didn’t find this obtrusive. The old town of Dubrovnik can be reached by water taxi, which is the perfect way to view the city walls from the water.

Villa Dubrovnik is another 5-star hotel, this time overlooking the old town of Dubrovnik and around 5 minutes from Dubrovnik’s port by the hotel’s own vaporesso speedboat. If you prefer, it’s a 20-minute pleasant stroll along the coast to walk into the old town. I love the fact that you arrive at the hotel to a simple wooden door that then whisks you in an elevator down into the main buildings. It almost feels like a Bond film, giving you an instant feeling that this is going to be a very exclusive place. This is a very grown-up property that oozes luxury and style and is unashamedly understated and chic. Rooms look out over the sparkling sea, and many have views of the old town too.

Communal areas are beautifully decorated, and the staff can’t do any more to help, it’s a true haven of peace, calm and indulgence. There’s a pool as well as a restaurant terrace overlooking the sea and the cherry on the cake-a rooftop bar which serves sunset drinks with panoramic views. I honestly didn’t want to leave. You need to be prepared for the cost of this hotel, but I’d say it’s worth every penny for the experience-ideal for honeymoons, an anniversary or just a romantic holiday for two.

Hotel Kompas has just had a major renovation and has changed almost beyond recognition since I used to eat in its restaurant 10 years and more ago. The only thing that’s not changed is its superb location right on Lapad beach, with easy access to the beautiful pedestrianised promenade lined with restaurants, bars and cafés in Lapad. The hotel is officially a 4-star but so many elements warrant 5-stars, from the funky fresh décor to the views from the reception over the beach area, I was impressed. The hotel has an area of the beach reserved just for guests with towels and loungers, so it’s easy to hop onto the beach for a bit. I loved the location here for families - lots of places to eat out, beach on your doorstep and a great atmosphere.

Croatia offers the potential for so many different types of holidays, it’s a shame to only visit there once. Believe me, once you’ve taken your first trip there, you’ll be wanting to go back for more! You could stay for a short city break and explore Dubrovnik or Split; have a winter shopping trip to the markets in Zagreb in the run-up to Christmas; spend time on pristine beaches; chill at laid back cafés and chic bars; sail between islands or spend a week living aboard a wooden boat; have an adventure kayaking and climbing at Omiš or visit National Parks at Plitvice, Mljet and Krka.

Croatia’s got all my perfect ingredients for a great holiday-great fresh seafood, good local wine, crystal clear sea, reliable warm weather, stunning local architecture steeped in history and friendly welcoming people.