God's Own Country- Kerala- India
Kerala is most renowned for the hundreds of miles of rivers, canals, streams and estuaries known collectively as the ‘backwaters’. Here you can board a Keralan houseboat - a converted wooden barge which would traditionally have been used to transport rice and other goods around this network of waterways. This is a great chance to explore deep into the Indian countryside and be amazed at the sights and sounds of the Backwaters. Men in small boats punt past, herding huge flocks of ducks. Children wave and smile as they play by the water’s edge. Bubbles appear beneath the surface quickly followed by several men carrying mud up from the depths to load onto barges. Women line the river banks washing colourful saris or pots and pans.
The Snake Temple, deep in the backwaters with its 30,000 plus images of serpents it is said to bring fertility to those who worship here. Upon the birth of the child, the family bring the baby back to the temple and a huge set of scales are used so that the family can give the temple back the baby’s weight in gold, or for more modest families, bananas or coconuts.
One of the real highlights of this tour was the chance to stay with an Indian family in their home. The homestay was a chance to really get to know the gracious Paritickel family who welcomed us with open arms and were the most gracious hosts. They became my family whilst I lived and worked there and were an endless source of information and friendship for me.
Heading away for the coast the land rises steeply up and palm trees give way to fields of pineapples and rubber trees. As the roads get steeper and windier, the smell of spices are everywhere and at last we arrived at Periyar. This National Park is home to tigers, elephants, deer and otters, which can be viewed in their natural environment undisturbed from a boat trip on the lake. Heading further inland and gaining altitude, the land opens up to miles of carefully manicured tea terraces. The rich dark green is speckled with the vibrant colours of ladies picking the tea leaves in their vivid saris. Munnar is a town with a distinctly colonial feel as it was the favoured summer resort of erstwhile British rulers. It’s here that I enjoyed the very best curry in India at Saravana Bhavan café- a traditional thali served on a coconut leaf for only 20 rupees.
Back on the coast the city of Kochi is a typical bustling Indian city with the usual traffic, horns honking and crazy rickshaws! The old part of the city at fort Kochi is an oasis of calm in comparison. You will certainly recognise the Chinese fishing nets, much photographed with a backdrop of the setting sun. Each 10 m high structure is a cantilever with an outstretched net suspended over the sea and operated by a team of up to six fishermen. You can choose your fresh catch of the day and have it cooked over and open fire whilst you wait- delicious!
There are several companies who operate group tours to Kerala to suit all tastes from cycling and walking tours to more leisurely paced affairs, cooking tours or yoga retreats. There is also the option to tailor-make your Keralan tour, or perhaps combine it with a stop in Sri Lanka or a trip to the north of India. Kerala is ideal for your first trip to India, and provides and gentle and laid back introduction to one of the most fascinating and diverse countries on earth. Please get in touch with me to find out more.