Kenya - From the Maasai to the Mountains
However, once you’ve made it out of the airport barriers, the rewards are indescribable. To me, there is no other continent that is so intoxicating. You really can’t describe the feeling of sitting up around the fire, listening to lions roaring and hyena’s calling with a gin and tonic in hand, meeting people from all over the world and sharing the day’s experiences that will be in your memories forever.
The first pit stop as always was to catch up with friends at my favourite restaurant in Nairobi, the Talisman. Fantastic food, beautiful outdoor dining area, good atmosphere at the bar and on occasions live music. Where it’s never too early for a Mimosa and the locals have been known to make it through the night to enjoy a hearty breakfast before heading home to bed.
I had arranged to head straight to Amboseli area that afternoon and to my first Kenyan home, the stunning Satao Elerai Camp. Situated on the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro, if you’ve ever seen pictures of elephants in front of a snow-capped mountain, this is the area. The Amboseli National Park is not only known for the beautiful mountain back drop but also its swamps where you can find an incredible array of bird life, buffalo’s, hippo’s and elephants wallowing and lions and cheetah hunting. Being so open it’s a very satisfying park as you see a herd of animals easily, all different species mixed in with one another.
In front of my tent was a very small watering hole which when dry attracts some of the larger male elephants who want a quiet bathe and drink away from the herds. I had a couple of times where I sat and watch them for half an hour from the comfort and peace of the loungers outside my room. The main waterhole in front of the main lounge/dining area had constant visitors of elephants, giraffe, waterbuck, zebra and warthogs.
Satao Elerai is on its own conservancy (an area where a group of landowners have joined their land and decided to protect it for the benefit of the wildlife and earn through tourism). Staying on a conservancy rather than a National Park means you are directly benefiting the local landowners, helping support land which buffers the National Parks and helps increase the animal’s safe zones, as well as having fewer cars then the national parks and you are usually able to night drive and do walks as well.
I was here to visit a Maasai community who I worked with for over a year and never fail to humble and remind me of the beauties of the simple life. They are a fascinating tribe who are so proud of their culture, they are always keen to meet new people, invite them into their homes for a cup of chai and answer any questions about their culture. It’s always an honour to spend time with them and the people of this village are lifelong friends where my self-proclaimed Maasai Mama always has the tea ready.
From here it was time to do some climbing and I headed back to Nairobi to meet up with friends who I was joining for a charity trek up Mount Kenya, raising money for the Mount Kenya trust who patrol the foothills on horseback to protect the area and wildlife. Starting from the town of Nanyuki, a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Nairobi and reminiscent of the English countryside with its rolling hills.
It was here that we started our 5 days climb up the mountain (4 days up and 1 day down!). An experience that I can’t do justice by summing up in words here. It’s an ever-changing landscape from the forested foothills, bamboo belt, timberline forest to the heathland and the afro-alpine zone. Lenana is the lowest of the 3 peaks at 4,985m (Mt Kilimanjaro is 5,895m) and the other two peaks can only be summited by technical rock climbing, so not for the faint hearted!
We had snow fall on the afternoon of our 3rd day which we made the most of with snow men and snow ball fights. Many of the group did feel the effects of mountain sickness at some point but we took it easy, had long rested after lunch and afternoons acclimatising in camp. There is also fantastic fishing up the mountain which can be accessed through private helicopter rides for those not so keen on the climb.
For those who like a challenge, this is one for the bucket list and I will be back to do it next year, hopefully, to summit the Bation and Nelion peaks this time! The feeling of accomplishment stays with you for weeks, the team spirit, guides and food fantastic and the peacefulness you could find watching the sunrise from a secluded spot just away from our campsites rare in our busy, modern day lives. And the best bit.. the amazing porters stormed ahead and had our tents, tea a fire waiting for us when we arrived each day. Pure heaven after a long walk.
My last stop and to rest my weary legs was the beautiful Diani Beach on the southern Kenyan coast, with beautiful white sand beaches, gorgeous sea food and for me a chance to catch up with friends at a wonderful wedding.
Dolphin watching from the dhow boats to snorkelling with turtles and incredible crab lunches on private islands, quad bike riding and elephant spotting in Shimba Hill’s National Reserve there is so much to see and do but if you just want to relax there are great restaurant/bars for lazy lunches with your feet in the sand and cocktail in hand.
After being up to the mountain, the warmth, water and luxury were such a treat. And no one knows how to do a beach wedding like they do in Kenya. However, I’m out of practice and didn’t quite make it up dancing till sunrise this time..