Rethymnon - the ideal introduction to Crete

I’ve lost count of the number of times I have sent clients to Greece this year, and Crete is one of the perennial favourites – fabulous beaches, lots of culture, great food and wonderful weather – at least, that’s what I’ve always told people even though I’d never been!

It was clearly time to practice what I preach. It’s been some time since my last visit to Greece, specifically Skiathos, mainly because of a fascination with Croatia and a love of Italian food that has taken me elsewhere in search of sunshine. This year, with the sunshine on hold until September, I didn’t fancy risking anything further north and Crete’s moment had arrived! I was later told many times by the locals that September is the perfect month to visit, as the summer wind calms down and there is still beautiful weather, so we were onto a winner.

We based ourselves in Rethymnon for a few days, choosing a boutique hotel (Casa Vitae) in the old town, although for those who can’t tear themselves away from the beach there’s a long strand either side of the peninsula and plenty of hotels to choose from. Our hotel was sensitively formed out of an old Venetian townhouse, with sumptuous rooms and the breakfast courtyard was a peaceful way to start the day.

Rethymnon is a beautiful town with labyrinthine streets, providing some of the best examples of architecture from Crete’s former rulers in the form of a stunning Venetian harbour and fortress as well as Ottoman houses and the occasional mosque. Getting lost was all part of the fun, as you’d stumble across cute cafes and bars and try to remember where they were to come back later. Eating out was a joy, with plenty of choice and delicious Cretan mezedes (mezze). Don’t forget to leave room though, as we found many places traditionally ended the meal not just with the obligatory raki but some sort of dessert.