Andermatt – a Swiss gem, small but perfectly formed

Matt Hills on 01 April 2019
Andermatt is a relatively unknown Swiss resort, just a ninety-minute scenic drive from Zurich. Recently it’s received a fair bit of investment, in the accommodation as well as the ski infrastructure, and it’s turning into a fabulous destination for a long weekend, or even a relaxed week of skiing, chilling out, eating and pampering. So, that’s the big attraction?

Firstly, ease of access. Regular daily direct flights to Zurich from all London airports, Birmingham and Manchester, operated by EasyJet, BA and Swiss. From there, hop on the extremely efficient Swiss rail service to whisk you up into the mountains (with one easy change), take a private transfer, or simply drive.

When you arrive, the town is small, so getting around is easy, and there’s a decent choice of hotels. I was lucky enough to stay at the utterly fabulous Chedi (sister property of the original one in Muscat). If you arrive by train, it’s about 100 yards to the hotel entrance, if you’ve driven then simply give your keys to the nice chap who greets you at the grand front entrance. Like everything else at this hotel, details like parking your car are effortlessly taken care of. Reception is spectacular – soaring ceilings, a calm, quiet atmosphere, welcoming staff, for whom nothing is too much trouble. The rooms are luxurious – the bathroom suite (consisting of dressing area, his & hers vanity units, a free-standing bath, throne room, and massive walk-in rainfall shower) is bigger than most complete hotel rooms I’ve stayed in, and fully kitted out with posh amenities, fluffy towels and snuggly bath robes. You could get lost in the bed, the living area is comfortable and spacious, and the views up the mountain from the balcony are to die for. Not bad really…

As you’d expect, the facilities match the room standards. The chaps in the ski shop were incredibly friendly and helpful. The spa centre, featuring countless pools of varying temperatures (personally, I’d avoid the cold plunge pool, but each to their own), steam rooms, saunas, and a well kitted out gym. And the actual spa had a huge range of treatments to pamper yourself, or ease aching bodies after a hard day on the slopes. Breakfast was extensive (even in the mornings it was hard to stay out of the chilled cheese room), and the dinner menu was all you’d expect from such an upmarket hotel. The chap behind the bar mixes a mean White Russian, amongst other things.

The town itself has a small selection of bars and restaurants, and a nightclub if you have the energy. But this isn’t a resort for partying, and dancing on the tables in your ski boots – it’s a place to come and relax, enjoy the scenery, and indulge in a spot of my favourite sport…

So, the skiing. The lift system is quick and efficient. You can ski on either side of the valley, with a fine selection of wide open, well-groomed and virtually empty red and blue runs. On the Gemsstock side, a gondola whisks you up to nearly 3000m, with a choice of route back down. If you head up to Gutsch, you can work your way further up the valley away from Andermatt, in a series of connected lifts, until you reach the village of Sedrun for a spot of lunch. Can’t be bothered to ski back? Simply get the train along the bottom of the valley – and towards the end of the day they have a specially designed après-ski train, complete with a bar. Happy days… For the powder hounds, there are loads of off-piste opportunities worth exploring, a guide is recommended. You’ll find local experts available at the extremely friendly and professional Alpine Sports, located in the centre of town.

So, who’s it for? A luxurious weekend away, perfect. Or maybe you’re relatively new to skiing, not too fussed about the larger French resorts, and want a great mix of fabulous hotel, spectacular scenery, excellent skiing, and a spot of luxury? This just might be the little gem you’re looking for…