Amalfi Coast first-timer

Nicky Mellusco on 11 June 2018
I wondered how it had taken 16 years in the travel industry to make my first visit to the Amalfi Coast. Would all the breath-taking cookery programme photography and old Hollywood movies watched over the years live up to my expectations?

Naples often gets overlooked as simply the gateway to the Amalfi Coast, but this proved to be one of the biggest surprises. Once you have inched your way out of the airport traffic and through the confusing city road system (car hire is not recommended) a short stay will provide an enjoyable and some would argue an essential preface to extended exploration of the area and its islands. Naples’ 19th Century Grande Dame, Grand Hotel Parker’s has an elevated position overlooking the harbour and the city’s oldest castle, Castell d’Ovo. Its location is slightly removed from the animated heart of the city yet only a short 10-minute taxi journey away and provides a restful base. Breakfast taken in the hotel’s elegant rooftop restaurant is a wonderful way to start the day.

For those who have booked an excursion to Pompeii, a visit to the impressive National Archaeological Museum provides a helpful background to the sites you will see. My highlights included the awe-inspiring mosaics from Pompeii’s Casa del Fauno and wall paintings taken from the Temple of Isis.

The next stage of the journey took me to Ischia, just an hour’s ferry journey away. My personal hotel recommendation would be Hotel San Montano Resort & Spa set in a unique location, perched on Monte Vico. The local sandy beach of San Montano and famous garden of La Mortella are within a 10-minute drive away by complimentary shuttle. Ischia would most certainly provide a wonderfully peaceful standalone island getaway, perhaps more so for those who have already ticked off the region’s archaeological sites and iconic towns and cities. Beyond sun-drenched relaxation, the island also offers thermal spas, botanical gardens, sandy beaches and for those seeking a less ostentatious atmosphere, an alternative to its neighbour, Capri.

Day one concluded with a wonderful meal back in Naples, Pizzeria Mattozzi. The absence of any foreign accents and a constant huddle of locals patiently waiting at the door, made me realise our hotel concierge’s recommendation was spot-on. The arancini and pizzas were outstanding - what a memorable start to my Neapolitan culinary adventure.