Holidaying like a Parisian

My first visit to Ile de Ré was last spring. A tantalising one-night stay at the end of a research trip through the Loire Valley and Bordeaux wine country. I vowed as soon as I was crossing the causeway back towards La Rochelle at the end of my stay that I would have to return! Barely more than an hour’s flight away followed by a smooth 30-minute transfer, Ile de Ré makes a perfect weekend getaway. Francophiles like myself will not be disappointed!

The retreat for our short break was Le Clos St Martin - a short 5-minute walk along a quaint pathway lined with hollyhocks, fuchsias, lavender, roses and marigolds will lead you to the very pretty and ever so stylish harbour of St Martin. Treat yourself to an ice-cream from the renowned La Martiniere glacier (grapefruit was my favourite) and take a seat along the waterfront, listening to the soft rattle of tandem bicycles over cobblestones and watch the fishing boats and yachts bobbing on the water. Alternatively, in true ‘holidaying like a Parisian’ style you can find 6 oysters, a crépinette (a type of cured sausage) and a glass of wine for under €10.

As cyclists outnumber cars, the island has a wonderfully sedate pace of life. Hotels can assist with organising rentals and some even have their own supply for guests. Cycle paths edge along the waterfront where you can watch oyster farmers in action, stop off for a sample and continue through sprawling vineyards and neighbouring towns, where every corner brings a new photo opportunity! Due to building regulations, each town has maintained its authenticity and remained quintessentially Ile de Ré. Properties are never taller than two storeys, they must be whitewashed, and shutters painted to match the colour of tranquil pine forests.

At dusk the harbour again becomes the focal point. Artists are drawn by the clarity of light, similar to that of Cornwall so I’m told, and you will frequently see painters trying to capture the magnificent evening colours. In the height of the summer be sure to pre-book restaurants, especially those huddled around the harbour front. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner at L’Avant Port of Iberian pork followed by a Brittany biscuit with local elderflower.

I have to admit that I failed to tick off many things on my holiday to-do list but it’s ever so easy to fall in to the slower pace of life, whether it be long, lazy breakfasts and dinners, the novelty of just being by the water’s edge or enjoying some spa time. Le Clos St Martin’s spa access is included in the room rate, so this is typically where you could find me for an hour before getting ready for dinner. Day beds look out towards the hotel’s gardens and adult pool beyond.

In a nutshell, Ile de Ré offers something for everyone; wonderful seafood restaurants, plenty of unspoilt sandy beaches, boating, cycling, walks, botany, history, markets and boutique shopping. I rarely revisit the same destination twice, but I think Ile de Ré might just be an exception and I’d highly recommend a ‘prescription’ whenever you just need to get away from it all. I hope to be back in 2019 and this time I may just muster enough energy to get on the saddle!