Delhi Agra and Rajasthan

The last time I visited India was 30 years ago. When I arrived this time it was dawn and the city was just stirring. After dropping the bags and freshening up, I was out and visiting Old Delhi, including the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India. Then a thrilling ride on a rickshaw through the covered Chandni Chowk bazaar, jammed with people eager to buy all manner of items to celebrate Diwali, the festival of light. This is not for the faint hearted! The next day I visited New Delhi including The Qutb Minar, the tallest stone tower in India, the impressive Parliament buildings, Humayan’s tomb and Lutyens buildings. The next day was an early morning start to catch the Shatabdi Express to Agra, which is very civilised, with reserved seats and breakfast on board. The Taj Mahal is breathtaking and no photograph can do it justice. No first trip to India can exclude this. The Red Fort is another must. In the evening I enjoyed a dance performance at the Kalakriti Cultural Centre, enacting the story of how the Taj came to be constructed, in honour of the Maharaja’s beloved wife who died in childbirth. This is an amazing spectacle of colour and sounds.

The next day en route to Ranthambore, I visited Fatehpur Sikri, an incredible redstone city constructed and then abandoned through lack of water supplies. There are many other theories however. Then another train journey to Sawai Madhopur, Ranthambore National Park’s closest railway station. After the hustle and bustle of Delhi and Agra, this was heaven.

I rose early morning for the first safari, in search of the illusive tiger. I encountered monkeys, deer and many birds including peacocks, but unfortunately no tigers. Back to the lodge for breakfast and then out again in the afternoon. This time I saw the most beautiful tiger that passed less than 3 metres from the jeep on its way to the lake. It was kind enough to yawn and show a beautiful set of teeth! I had to pinch myself in order to believe that this was real.

I was not looking forward to my road trip to Jaipur as it was scheduled to take 4 hours. But what an adventure it was. After an hour or so, I encountered sheep for as far as the eye could see on the road. As the monsoon rains had not been so good for the year, the shepherds were moving their flocks to keep them fed. First came the lambs, then the sheep. Following on were camels laden with baskets, holding the lambs that had been born en-route and finally more camels with the women and children onboard. This went on for around 20 minutes. In Jaipur, I was greeted at the hotel with a garland of fragrant, fresh roses. The Indian people know how to make you feel welcome. I visited the wonderful Amber Fort, carried up by an elephant and managed to purchase a wonderful embroidered bed cover on the way - there is always time for shopping! I was introduced to a baby elephant and a snake charmer. Later I visited the Palace of the Winds, where the Maharajah’s ladies could look out onto daily city life, without being observed themselves and the Jantar Mantar, an astronomical observatory that was a wonder of its time. I then flew to Udaipur and stayed at the wonderful Lake Palace, seemingly floating in the middle of Lake Picchola. This is so romantic with stunning sunrises and sunsets. Udaipur is a good place for relaxed shopping.

I am totally in love with India and will return again. I have only seen a fraction of the country. The people, the colours, food, sights and sounds will stay with me forever. There is something for everyone.