Canadian Pioneer with Trek America - Part One
We hooked up with our tour leader - the Memphis born, long haired, hippy resembling, sleeveless topped – Tailor Potter (aka Teapot)! Most of our newly assembled group had connections with the American summer camps, either as leaders or facilitators. So it was that Kiwi Sammy and Brits Kieran and Meg joined us after their camp service had come to an end. Adam, Former Camp Director, now facilitating others with working adventures abroad, joined us to experience a Trek once again after his first one sixteen years ago aged 19! Meg’s sister and teacher Hannah, Sydney based police officer Hayley, and London accountant Katie made up the rest of the group, me being the oldest, and closest to the upper age limit of 39!
After making acquaintances and a briefing from Teapot, we made ourselves comfortable in our 14-seater minibus complete with luggage and equipment trailer, hit the interstate and headed towards our first destination – Niagara Falls. The journey took about 7 hours and included pleasant scenery which made it pass quickly by. It is possible to do the 400-ish miles from NYC to Niagara in a day without it feeling like it’s survival of the fittest!
The mist produced by the force of the falls can be seen from miles away as it ascends into the atmosphere, like a burning fire sending out smoke signals. I imagined what it must have been like for the pioneers who first discovered the falls.
I had concerns about Niagara Falls before the trip - concerns that this immense force of nature has been diluted by tacky hotels and casinos. However, upon arrival on the USA side, I was pleasantly surprised! Yes, it’s developed on both sides, but it’s not the Blackpool Pleasure Beach I had feared. The developments merely serve as a backdrop behind the centre-piece.
No visit to the falls would be complete without a trip on the Maid of the Mist, or if from the Canadian side the Hornblower. And that’s what we did to experience the awesome force up close. Waterproof ponchos are provided, and for very good reason! After setting up camp we returned to the falls after dark for a spectacular firework display which happens every night at 10pm. The falls are also colourfully lit up in a changing variety of colours.
The following morning, we crossed the border and into Canada for the first time. We headed for Toronto, Canada’s most populous city. Modern and cosmopolitan, with a picturesque skyline featuring the prominent and iconic CN Tower reflecting off the surface of Lake Ontario. Various districts including a China Town, a financial zone, and a pleasant waterfront with a selection of bars and restaurants make it a great stop for a couple of nights before heading onto the Algonquin Provincial Park.
Camping inside the park we had to be disciplined with our food storage to reduce the risk of bear visits! Although I’d welcome the sight of a bear I’m not sure I would appreciate one sniffing round my tent. We were blessed with a symphony of wolf howls throughout the night though.
The previous afternoon we embraced a hike through the forest in the pouring rain. The following morning was drier thankfully, making our next hike clearer and a little more comfortable. By the afternoon the sun appeared, and we enjoyed a fantastic canoe trip on the aptly named Canoe Lake as no motorboats are allowed. It was a superb few hours of being at one with nature, exploring the inlets while peacefully waiting and hoping for some wildlife activity. Our canoe guide (nickname Bear as he’s a well-built Mexican and owns several bear t-shirts) was brilliant. He knew the lake like the back of his bear-sized hand and gave us the perfect connection with nature. He also told us the lengthy and intriguing story of Tom Thomson, a well-known local artist from the early 20th century whose death in the lake is still a mystery. Officially he drowned, but evidence points towards some foul play.
I could have stayed in Algonquin longer. It’s a lovely place dominated by unspoilt forest and lakes. It’s a popular getaway destination for the Toronto city workers as it’s only 2-3 hours away. On to Montreal it was though.
Montreal comes second to Toronto on population. The Metro (underground) system was one of the best I’ve seen. With modern, clean trains and spotless stations. It made it easy to get around the city.
While Toronto is cosmopolitan and business like, Montreal is a little hip-hop and very French! The main attraction is the incredible Notre-Dame Basilica which boasts the most exquisite interior I have seen in a place of worship. And the surrounding streets take you back into what you might imagine to be an historical European city. My favourite experience though was the Jet Boat on the rapids!
If it wasn’t for the rapids on the St Lawrence river, Montreal would not exist. The original settlers sailed upstream, but met the rapids making it impossible to go further. It was fitting that we ventured out to experience them on a modern day Jet boat. The rapids are said to be some of the best in the world. This is not a quiet, leisurely cruise. This is a raw, adrenaline-filled adventure where you will get very wet as you dip in and out of the white waters, one of them aptly named ‘Brain Washer’!
We took the scenic route to Quebec City via some quiet villages with their impressionable churches. This small and quaint city with its’ abundance of French architecture is one of the oldest cities in North America and is very historical with a good selection of souvenir shops, cafes and bars. Montmorency Falls is not far from the city where you can zip-line across the 83m tall falls, if that’s what floats your boat! Two nights here is ample.