Sri Lanka Family Adventures
The task set before had this short-list: the six-year-old wanted monkeys, the ten-year-old wanted tellies on the plane, and the one in charge did not want to cook. As for me, my desires are the same as always - to embrace different cultures, to explore new horizons, and to get lost in some wilderness.
The place that ticked off all these desires and remained affordable for a family of four was Sri Lanka! After our first night in Negombo, we headed off into the centre of the teardrop island to the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. One thing I never really considered after meeting the Indian elephant now compared to my previous five trips to Africa, is how much better natured these guys are compared to their larger and more aggressive cousins. You can get much more up, close and personal with them. The Pinnawala is famous for the multitude of Instagram shots of the elephants bathing in the river. And it's worth a visit just to see it for yourself. However, the 'bottle feeding' was a bit of a circus act as they weren't the cute little babies we were expecting, more like adolescents. And it was more of a performance than a natural setting. I'd probably recommend a lesser known sanctuary which is less Hollywood and a bit more authentic.
That night we were in for a little treat. We were staying near Sigiriya Rock in a little place called 'The Other Corner'. This was a wilderness meets luxury experience with a rickety drawbridge to conquer before entering the complex of straw-roofed huts. Monkeys frequented the grounds, bird-song was a constant backing track, and the resident naturist (not a nudist as my first thought) was on hand with his binoculars and an expensive camera to bring closer the surrounding wildlife. There was plenty of space in the huts for the four of us, and the pool was obviously a welcomed sight after a hot day. Add to that the exquisite food served to us by the restaurant, it was a true hit!
The ancient city and UNESCO World Heritage Site, Polonnaruwa was the order of the next day. Built in around the 12th century, it was great for the kids to experience this journey back in time. When entering certain areas, we had to remove our shoes and hats and cover our shoulders. It was a boiling hot day in the mid-thirties and the sand was at points like walking on burning coals! We were glad to have a driver with an air-conditioned car to take us round the various sites. Others were on push bikes!
That evening, as the heat relented, Jo and the kids went back to the jungle lodge while I went to climb Sigiriya Rock Fortress. Not for the faint-hearted - there are some scary bits! But when you reach the top, you are blessed with some amazing views. How they managed to build a fortress at the top of this 200m high rock I'll never know!
On to Kandy where we enjoyed lunch in a high-rise restaurant overlooking the city. Then we drove round the pleasant and very well-kept Kandy Lake to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, said to contain a tooth of the Buddha. You don't actually see the tooth so it's either hidden for safety or it's the biggest money-making hoax on the sub-continent. Either way, the architecture of the temple is excellent and well worth the entrance fee.
Since British rule came to an end in 1948, the railway network has stood still. Which means the rickety old trains trundle down the tracks at the speed of Sir Mo out for his morning jog. But that's what makes it interesting. And so it was that we caught the 8:30 (ish) train from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya. Tourists usually pay the extra to sit in first class where you get, well a seat. I guess that's more than commuting to London though! But the real attraction of this particular route is the rolling hills of tea plantations. It truly is a great experience, hanging out of the open door and enjoying the ever-changing scenery. At one point the train stopped and reversed back about half a mile. We never did find out why, either the driver jumped a light, or he forgot to pick up some passengers. Who knows?
South of Nuwara Eliya you have the Horton Plains National Park, where some great hikes across the plateau and some wildlife spotting can be enjoyed. Sadly, we were pushed for time as we had to make it to Yala National Park before sundown.
Yala was the final piece of our brief tour of the island but it was our favourite bit. Compared to African safaris, you don't have to travel far before you see some wildlife. Elephants were numerous, and many other species where visible but the elusive leopard did not come out to play for us. Apparently, one crossed the road just before we arrived on the scene. We stopped at a rest-stop near the roaring sea and witnessed an epic thunderstorm. It was a great experience - the kids loved it, the wife loved it, and I finally realised that I was out of the danger zone and had created the experience that I was tasked with in the brief…plus a little more!
To top it, the arrival at our luxury lodge, the Cinnamon Wild Yala, finished a great day. The lodges were kitted out with a safari style décor with ample space for families and, after a quick night time dip in the pool, we enjoyed a fantastic dinner. Once the kids were tucked up in bed, I tried to venture out to the beach but I was stopped in my tracks by the porter who warned me of the snakes and elephants and that he couldn't allow me to venture any further. The following morning, I did venture out to that beach, and for me it was the piece de resistance! You see, I love the isolated wilderness and the sense of a little danger. I was the only person on that virtually untouched, unspoilt beach. The powerful waves were crashing up onto the rocks, the air was clean, the sun warm, and there was evidence of elephant activity (poo!) I could have stayed there all day, I felt so alive. And those are the moments that keep me exploring this planet and helping others to do the same, to find their moments of wonder. Sri Lanka is a fantastic option for a family holiday. It's full of friendly people, diverse cultures, amazing scenery, and ancient history. It needs to be explored, and in doing so you can give your kids an education and adventure they'll never forget!