16 January 2024

* An 8-night classic safari with an eco-twist… * Immerse yourself in the wilderness of one of Africa’s top national parks celebrated for its phenomenal leopards. * Enjoy low impact safari activities - silent safaris in solar-powered electric vehicles and bush walks in the national park that is considered their birthplace! * Green season is a photographers dream season - vibrant landscapes, dramatic skies, an abundance of baby animals, and lions who laze on roads because they don’t want to get their feet wet! * Experience adventure and wonder at Victoria Falls - the worlds’ largest waterfalls * Get involved in community and conservation experiences and see for yourself the positive change your safari is making. What’s more by choosing off-season travel, you can help provide a more consistent income for local communities throughout the year. ITINERARY Months: December/ April or May Days 1 to 6: Shawa Luangwa Camp, South Luangwa National Park South Luangwa National Park supports one of the highest concentrations of game anywhere in the world! It covers an impressive 9000km2 of unfenced, unspoilt wilderness. At its heart the meandering Luangwa River forms distinctive oxbow lagoons that are crowded with hippos and crocodiles. Fanning out on either side of the Luangwa are grassy plains dotted with elephants, giraffe and grazing animals. Patches of riverine forest and gullies provide hiding places for predators and there are plenty here… lion, leopard, spotted hyena as well as a thriving African wild dog population. For many the most exciting aspect of the Luangwa Valley is that it has the world’s highest naturally occurring population of leopard! And because this park is one Africa’s few national parks to offer spotlit night drives, a whole other wildlife realm is opened up with opportunities to spot - genets, civets, porcupines, bush babies, nightjars, grass-mowing hippos and other nocturnal creatures. Shawa Luangwa Camp overlooks the beautiful Luangwa River in one of the park’s most untouched areas. This small, eco camp is named after the camp’s head guide, Jacob Shawa, who is among Zambia’s top professional guides. The camp’s design is fun and original with just five tented chalets resembling teepees (a clever design to funnel away hot air) tucked into a shady tree line facing the floodplains where there is always something happening… This is a camp that is serious about reducing its environmental footprint. It runs completely off-grid thanks to solar energy from a solar farm on-site. It also operates an all-electric vehicle fleet and the silent safari experience is utterly captivating - enabling you to hear all the sounds of the bush as you explore the park. Days 6 to 9: Livingstone, Tongabezi Lodge The famous explorer missionary Dr David Livingstone gave his name to this town that sits on the border and Zambia and Zimbabwe, and named the awe-inspiring waterfalls he found there Victoria Falls after the Queen of England. Locally the Falls are known as mosi-oa-tunya, which loosely translates to mean ‘the smoke that thunders’ and they are a truly spectacular natural phenomenon. The immense curtain of water is nearly twice as wide and high as Niagara Falls, and the enormous volume of water that pours over the edge makes this the largest waterfall in the world. Upstream of the Falls in a tranquil, almost tropical setting on the banks of the Zambezi River lies Tongabezi Lodge. Such is the romantic nature of its location, that it was described by the New York Times as ‘a place worth getting married for’! Tongabezi consists of a small collection of luxurious and highly individual Cottages and Houses each with a view of the mighty Zambezi. The hospitality here is very personal with each room being allocated a “valet” to look after them and arrange activities etc. There is also no set itinerary so guests are free to do as much or as little as they wish… Aside from the lure of the Victoria Falls themselves, there’s a plethora activities from laidback river safaris, to adrenaline adventure - white water rafting, an incredible 111m bungee jump, or a once in a lifetime swim in Devil’s Pool on the edge of the falls, and much more… SUSTAINABILITY Shawa Camp and Tongabezi Lodge are run by Green Safaris, one of the first safari operators to be operationally carbon neutral in Zambia. Green Safaris has calculated the carbon footprint of all its properties and embarks on an annual tree planting programme (>18,000 trees pa) to compensate for its operational footprint. To reduce their carbon footprint further many of Green Safari’s lodges are entirely run off solar farms, utilise water reticulation and biogas systems, and zero-use plastics are banned. Other initiatives introduced include reducing the amount of red meant on menus, increasing the amount of self-grown organic vegetables and expanding the use of electric vehicles and boats. In addition, each Green Safari’s property supports at least one conservation initiative and one community project. Guests are very much encouraged to visit, learn or even get stuck in to some of these projects. In Zambia, projects connected to Shawa Camp and Tongabezi include: • Support for Conservation South Luangwa which conducts anti-poaching patrols; wildlife rescue and de-snaring missions; and addresses human-wildlife conflict issues through community engagement such as providing elephant safe grain stores. • Support for Project Luangwa which works to improve health and education for young people in the rural Mfuwe area by providing: sponsorship to support students through secondary school; Digital learning opportunities, Menstrual health resources and hygiene lessons, Eco-Stoves and tree planting to help reduce the rate of deforestation. • The Tongabezi Trust School which helps vulnerable children continue their education to secondary level. Students have gone on to become everything from accountants to engineers, lawyers to clinical officers, pilots to teachers. The school is also trying to teach its students to “think green", which in practice means trying to save, recycle and re-use resources wherever possible. • Mukuni Community Farm which teaches members about sustainable small-scale farming techniques, including alley cropping, grazing rotation, homemade fertiliser and pesticide development, chicken rearing, food forest and mushroom growing.

27 December 2023

My vision is that all animals encountered on a holiday booked with me are free from exploitation, neglect and cruelty. I support an end to the capture of animals from the wild for the purposes of entertainment, and encourage the conservation of natural habitats and their wildlife. I will not promote, sell, nor endorse any attractions that have animals in captivity, or where animals are kept for the sole purpose of entertainment. This does not include ‘protected areas’ such as national parks or reserves where animals are free to roam and express natural behaviours. Our customers will be encouraged to report bad practice where any of the guidelines outlined below are not adhered to. The Five Freedoms Animal attractions and wildlife excursions will be measured against the Five Freedoms outlined in ABTA’s Global Welfare Guidance for Animals in Tourism. 1. Feeding: There is an absence of prolonged hunger or thirst in all animals. 2. Housing: All animals are kept in sufficient housing where they have access to comfort while resting, thermal comfort, and ease of movement. 3. Health: There is absence of injury, disease, or pain induced by inappropriate housing or management. 4. Behaviour: Animals are able to express natural behaviours, including social behaviours, in a positive emotional state, with positive human-animal relationship. Non-natural behaviours are not encouraged nor induced. 5. Protection from Fear: There is an absence of general fear or distress, and animals are able to seek privacy or refuge. There is an absence of surgical or physical modification other than for genuine medical reasons, and animals are regularly checked by specialised veterinarians. Protection of Endangered Animals Animal attractions and wildlife excursions must comply with CITES requirements (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), which is legally binding. 1. Trade of elephants (live or dead) and elephant parts is illegal 2. Trade of tigers (live or dead) and tiger parts is illegal 3. Trade of primates (live or dead) and primate parts is illegal 4. Trade of marine animals (live or dead) and marine animal parts is illegal Unless there is a conservation breeding program in place, elephants, tigers, primates and marine mammals should not be acquired from the wild. Animals in the Wild Animal viewing and wildlife excursions where animals are in their natural environment or a protected area, will be measured against the following practices. 1. Rules and guidelines are in place to protect vulnerable ecosystems e.g. waste management. 2. A safe distance should be kept, with disturbing sounds kept to a minimum 3. For marine wildlife, a vessel distance of minimum 100m to any whale and 50m to any dolphin must be maintained 4. Feeding should be limited, encouraging animals to practice natural feeding behaviours e.g. hunting and foraging 5. Free-roaming animals in wild should never be touched or picked up Working Animals in Tourism Working animals in tourism can include: • Equine including horses, donkeys and ponies, used to pull/carry loads or people • Camels, used to transport goods or people • Sled dogs, used to transport goods or people The promotion of practices involving working animals will be measured by animal welfare in relation to the principles of the Five Freedoms, in addition to: 1. Animals should have regular rest periods of at least 1 hour between working periods 2. Animals should only work within their physical capabilities (loads are not in excess of 15% of their body weight) 3. Equipment should be well maintained, fit appropriately, and removed during rest periods 4. Tethering is discouraged and should be limited to a few hours a day. Animals should be able to exercise movement without putting tension on the tether, and reach basic resources such as food, water and shade 5. Young, pregnant, ill or injured animals should not be ridden or required to carry loads We recognise that many working animals in tourism provide the sole income for their owner and their families, and that this has been a long tradition within their communities. We support the training and education of communities to ensure a sustainable livelihood whilst providing appropriate care and management of healthy, working animals. Unacceptable Practices We consider the following practices as unacceptable, both in captive environments and in the wild. 1. Animal performances based on non-natural behaviour e.g. elephant parades 2. Animals used as photographic props involving bad practice e.g. tiger declawing 3. Animals used for begging e.g. dancing bears, snake charming 4. Animal breeding for commercial trade 5. Trophy hunting 6. Unlicensed zoos Ultimately, I believe that wildlife should be free from exploitation and disturbance. I will always offer neutral information and advice about ethical wildlife viewing to help protect and care for animals. I want to ensure that travellers are able to enjoy their holidays and that tourism is a force for good. Our Animal Welfare Policy has been established on guidance taken from The Travel Foundation, ABTA, CITES and the Universal Declaration on Animal Welfare.

19 December 2023

I can’t help noticing that the women-focused travel market is growing fast. As an adventurous woman traveller, a little skeptical part of me wonders whether I’m being stalked by an algorithm to fill a niche... but it is overruled by the powerful resonance I feel with the increasing number of women-focused travel opportunities. Having just returned from leading a women’s safari in Namibia, I can still feel the glow that accompanies the different level of bonding and companionship from being in women’s company and sharing experiences together. It was a magical few weeks of laughter, fun and stories, making new friends and the most incredible journey filled with so many memorable moments and sightings. A source of fresh inspiration and a little extra confidence. Such trips are not about the absence of men but rather acknowledging that women have different concerns, interests and needs when it comes to travel. Take birdwatching trips for example, one of my loves, most fellow women birders I’ve met don’t buy into the competitive, laser-focused, list-making kind of twitching. They prefer a slower-paced approach, spending time watching bird behaviour, regardless of how rare they are. Women-only tours can be a chance to join a supportive, comfortable space to learn new skills, or invest in time in improving existing ones that are often juggled alongside responsibilities caring for others. If you would like to know more about opportunities for women travellers, I’d love to hear from you. If you would be interested in joining me on a relaxed birding trip and safari in southern or east Africa let’s make it happen! “The purpose of life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience.” - Eleanor Roosevelt

17 April 2023

PLANNING Finding the right time and place Africa’s incredible wildlife is present throughout the year, so you can go on safari in any month, which I have done. What you see and how much you see does however change with the seasons, specifically with the onset of the rains. Broadly speaking the dry months of July to October are the best for big game viewing across eastern and southern Africa. If you’re a birder however the opposite is true, as the rains are when migratory birds are present, so November through to March are excellent months. Safari experiences Most big game viewing occurs on game drives in 4x4 vehicles. But did you know there are many more ways to experience African wildlife? For instance, a night drive to see nocturnal species can be very exciting; walking safaris are wonderful to learn about the smaller aspects of the bush – plants, tracks, dung etc; water-based safaris in boats or canoes tend to be more laid back and are fabulous to spot hippos, waterbirds and also elephant; riding safaris offer unique opportunities to get close to plains game like giraffe, zebra and antelope; some countries also offer fantastic snorkelling safaris and scenic hot air balloon safaris. Not all these activities are available in all safari destinations and some may be offered seasonally. So if you’re interested in a specific experience make sure to mention it in your holiday enquiry. GUIDING Besides your travelling companions, you will spend most of your holiday with your safari guide, so it’s essential that they have the right skills and personality to deliver an amazing wildlife experience, keep you safe and have fun! Each African country has their own system of guide grading and awarding qualifications; in some there are no formal qualification requirements and the guide training falls to individual companies. I gained my safari guiding qualifications in South Africa and have experienced guide training in other countries too. If you want the best from your safari holiday, ask about the quality of the guides. CROWD CONTROL The main decision you need to make to avoid the crowds is whether to go public or private, in a not dissimilar way to choosing a beach for a summer break in the Med. Safari areas fall into public National Parks and Private Concessions, both of which can be great but there are important differences. If you want to beat the lion and leopard jams, then where you stay on safari can be very important. It can also determine what kind of safari activities you can and cannot do. SOLO SAFARI Going on safari is a pretty big financial decision, and can be especially steep for solo travellers when many camps charge almost double. But, solo safari travellers don’t have to pay more! I frequently travel solo, so have a ‘heightened’ awareness of which lodges (and there are an increasing number of them) don’t charge single supplements, some all year round and others in the mid or low seasons. Do be mindful that safari camps that waive single supplement charges will often only do so for a limited number of rooms and/or single people, so plan well ahead to secure the best price. PACKING As a general rule think less is more! Luggage limits for fly-in safaris are restricted to 15-20kg. You only really need a couple of pairs of cotton shorts and t-shirts and a longer-sleeved shirt and trousers. Most camps have good laundry facilities so there are plenty of opportunities to wash clothes. Also think layers… If you’re going on safari from June to September these are the winter months and can be a lot colder in the early mornings and at night than you might think. Thin layers that you can dress up or down are ideal. Safari activities are governed by when the animals are most active, which tends to be early morning and late afternoon. Pack a book/ kindle/ cards or other games for the free time in the middle of the day, as well as your swimming wear for the pool which many lodges have. Many safaris are in remote locations where power is limited. A few camps have mains electricity (not always reliable) but most are off grid and operate off a generator and or solar power. The charging facilities will vary from camp to camp, so bringing your own power pack is a good idea (as well as one or two spare camera batteries). If you wear contact lenses, bring a spare pair of glasses in case you get irritation from the dust. You don’t want to be seeing blurry lions!

13 January 2023

This 10-night itinerary stays in some of Botswana’s smaller tented camps for an intimate, adventurous and authentic safari, travelling across a variety of extraordinarily beautiful landscapes and delivering top quality wildlife viewing. These tiny explorer-style camps (each has just 4-5 tents) combine the magic of camping - feeling incredibly close to nature, drinks around the campfire, and dining under the stars, with guest comfort, high levels of service, excellent food and a light footprint. One of the features of a Botswana safari is the diversity of experiences on offer. This trip combines National Parks and Private Reserves giving you the opportunity to do day and night drives, off-roading, bush walks and boating for a fully immersive safari. Much of Botswana’s wilderness is only accessible by air, so you’ll hop from camp to camp on short, scenic light-aircraft flights. These small planes often fly low allowing for fabulous views of the changing ecosystems, as well as some aerial game viewing of the larger animals. Days 1-2: Chobe National Park Arrive at Kasane Airport where you'll be met by a friendly safari guide and driven to Chobe Under Canvas. As you enter Chobe National Park on the way to the camp’s private location, the game viewing begins…. With the highest concentration of elephants in Africa, Chobe is a pachyderm lover’s paradise. In the dry season, herds can number in the hundreds and are a stable presence along the Chobe River where they are not at all camera shy! The park also has enormous herds of buffalo and plentiful lion and other predators. Days 3-5: Selinda Reserve - Kwando-Linyanti Head back to Kasane Airport to catch a short flight (about 50 minutes) to Selinda Airstrip and the next stage of your safari at Selinda Explorers Camp. After landing, you’ll game drive to the camp’s remote location in the shade of African ebony trees on the banks of the Selinda Spillway. This exclusive and vast private reserve is a first class area for big game. The area is well known for wild dogs and also fantastic for leopard. Off-road driving is allowed here, so you won’t be disappointed if the wild dogs you’ve just spotted spring into action on a hunt – just be prepared for an African massage as you follow them cross-country! This is an excellent camp for walking safaris – a great way to discover the bush from a different perspective, appreciate the smaller details and get active. Night drives are also possible here to search for nocturnal creatures like civet, porcupine, bushbabies, owls and more. Many predators are also active at night… Days 6-7 Jao Concession - Okavango Delta Head back to Selinda Airstrip for another short flight south into the watery oasis of the Okavango Delta. Upon landing, your adventure continues with an exciting boat ride to Pelo Camp situated on a small, picturesque tree island. Pelo is deep inside the waterways of the upper Okavango Delta, and the emphasis here is on water-based activities - primarily excursions by mokoro (traditional dug-out canoe). Glide gently through the papyrus-lined channels with deep blue skies above you while looking out for tiny reed frogs, shy sitatunga antelope, lazy hippo and a wonderful selection of birds. ‘Wet camps’ like Pelo can be a blissful opportunity to press pause and slow down the pace of your safari after the early morning starts on game drives! Days 8-10: Khwai Private Reserve Fly from Jao Airstrip to Khwai Airstrip and transfer to Little Machaba Camp in the pristine wilderness of the Khwai Private Reserve. Situated at the southern end of the Okavango Delta, the Khwai area consists of floodplains and woodland interlaced with waterways. With more dry land here than around Pelo this is an extremely good area for general predator sightings – lion, leopard, cheetah, hyena. Elephant, buffalo, giraffe, and zebra are also ever present. Besides game drives, you can also do guided walks and mokoro trips. Day 11 Departure Sadly, it’s time to say goodbye to Botswana. Fly from Khwai Airstrip to Maun Airport (roughly 30 minutes) to arrive in good time for your international flight home. This itinerary is just an example. In the peak season (July to October) it costs from around £12,000 pp excluding international flights. Plesae get in touch for a fully tailor made safari. Travel Tip: Bring a power bank for your phone as these off-grid camps have limited/no charging facilities.

28 October 2022

So, you’re thinking about the Okavango Delta… I don’t need to list the reasons why – its unspoiled splendour and prodigious wildlife are legendary! With a sea of enthusiastic adjectives to wade through (all of which it is), and a dazzling array of safari accommodation, how do you know if you’re making the right choices? Not to mention, that this is very likely a once-in-a-life-time holiday, so it’s imperative to get it right! As a lucky lady who’s been several times, explored much of the Delta and its fabulous lodges, I can help you plan your Botswana safari. It’s often quicker and easier to pick up the phone, so please do! However, if you like to do your own research first these are a few pointers to get you started. Botswana is a year-round destination with two main seasons, in which the safari experience and price differ. The dry winter months from mid-June through to October are Botswana’s 'peak’ game viewing season, for the simple reason that there is less water around, so wildlife is forced to gather around the diminished water sources. Animals are easier to spot and herd animals like elephant congregate in much greater numbers. The game viewing generally improves the further you are into the dry season, but the temperatures start to climb too, and October can be seriously hot! December to April are warm, rainy months and this green summer period is considered the ‘low’ season. It shouldn’t be dismissed though, as there’s still good game viewing in select areas. Moreover, these are the best months for birders as summer migrants swell the already impressive resident bird population. They also offer very attractive price gains! To see the Delta when it is flooded, visit between May to August when the water levels are usually at their highest, from mid-September they start to drop quickly. Zoom in on Google Earth's fan-shaped image of the Delta and you'll see a mosaic of greens and browns representing channels, lagoons and islands of dry land. What does this mean for your safari? Well, each area has its own unique characteristics which influence the wildlife you see as well as the activities you can do. Choose a ‘dry area’ to boost your chances of seeing the big cats and other big game like elephant and buffalo. For example, the Chitabe Concession and Chief’s Island. These areas are typically explored by vehicle on traditional game drives. To get closer to this magical watery paradise and glide through the papyrus-lined channels on a mokoro (dugout canoe), then include a ‘wet area’ too. Camps in wet areas such as the Jao and Nxabega Concessions offer water-based activities which are great for birdlife. They can also be a blissful opportunity to press pause and slow down the pace of your holiday after the early morning starts on game drives! ‘Mixed’ areas such as the Kwara and Vumbura Concessions offer the chance to see most species and do a mix of safari activities (water levels permitting). They are a good choice, especially if you’d like to combine the Delta with some of Botswana’s other wonderful wildlife areas. The beauty of a Botswana safari is that most are fly-in, so you’ll hop from camp to camp in a light plane and can completely tailor your trip to discover the diversity of this incredible area. National Park vs Private Concession. This may seem like a dull geographical distinction but it impacts on your safari in two key ways – the first is ‘crowd control’ and the second is the flexibility of activities. National Parks like the Moremi Game Reserve in the heart of the Okavango, are open to the public and have both campsites and safari lodges. These areas tend to be busier with more vehicles at sightings. Strict park rules ban night drives and walking safaris. They also prohibit driving off-road - vexing if the lions you’ve just spotted lazing around by the roadside suddenly spring into action on a hunt… Surrounding the National Parks are huge private concessions, often with just 2 to 3 small safari camps. There are no campsites, no public allowed and access is by air, so in these areas when you get a sighting you will likely have it all to yourself! Camps in concessions can offer unconventional safari experiences like horse riding, star beds, as well as walking safaris and night drives. Off-road driving in these areas is valuable for tracking the more elusive species like leopard and cheetah... It’s also an important consideration for photographers since guides have more scope to position the vehicles to your advantage. How do you see yourself on safari? Is it on a glamping type adventure, dinning alfresco, paths lit by paraffin lamps, sat around a campfire in the evening? Or perhaps its padding across the hardwood floor of your villa-sized tent to pour an aperitif from the fully-stocked vintage drinks chest before relaxing in the plunge pool on your private veranda? Safari camps come in many shapes and sizes but if you like luxury you won’t be disappointed. The majority of Botswana’s camps fall into this bracket and include some of very best in Africa, taking the definition of tent to another level and offering a decadent experience with gourmet cuisine, wellness spas, air conditioning, and many indulgent extras… If you’re more a ‘wild thing’ and looking for more of an immersive, ‘striped-back’ safari adventure then a good value traditional tented camp or even a private mobile safari might be a better fit. The guiding in Botswana is generally of a very high standard, style however does differ across camps. Some favour a fast-paced safari focusing on predator sightings, while others have a more holistic approach that includes the smaller wildlife and birds too. For keen photographers, it’s worth thinking about privately guided game viewing. When it comes to the bottom line - this is a high cost safari destination, but it’s expensive for the right reasons. Botswana has taken a strong stance on sustainable tourism and since the 1990s has led the way on high-value, low-volume, low-impact tourism. To give you a rough idea of costs, in peak season for two people sharing: a 10-day safari will cost from £9,000pp in good value lodges all the way up to £30,000pp plus in some of Botswana’s most renowned camps. The intentionally limited amount of accommodation and small camp sizes, means that demand outstrips supply, and the camps book up very quickly. To get exactly what you want, it’s important to plan and book as far ahead as you can.

03 March 2024

Tbilisi is the capital of Georgia, located between Russia and Turkey, so it straddles the continents of Europe and Asia. I adored Tbilisi for its architectural charm both old and new, walkable streets, pop-up pomegranate juice stalls, and incredibly tasty food! EXPLORE There are many impressive landmarks. I started at Metekhi Church perched on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. It’s one of the oldest churches in Tbilisi dating back to 13th and has some of the best views of Tbilisi’s Old Town. The church itself was atmospheric and busy with residents, offering a glimpse into local culture. Abanotubani - the old bath house area, a slightly ramshackle labyrinth of lanes with colourful houses and brick domed sulphur baths - it’s like navigating charming mole hills. I didn’t the baths, but if you have time for a scrub and soak they are said to be rejuvenating and relaxing. Walk between the old and new towns over the curvy steel and glass Peace Bridge (joking nicknamed the sanitary towel by locals). Eat out in the popular Shardani Street where you’ll be spoilt for choice of cafes and restaurants. Take the cable car up to Narikala Fortress for fabulous views of the winding Old Town streets from above. The hilltop fortress was built by David the Builder one of Georgia’s most revered ancient kings in the 11th century. Dry Bridge Flea Market - a huge flea market with an utterly random collection of Soviet memorabilia, records, rugs, and household items. There are bargains here if you have an eye for antiques. TASTE My visit to Georgia was fuelled by food! I’d had a copy of Olia Hercules Kaukasis recipe book for a few years and was longing to taste some of the wonderful and unique dishes she describes. I was not disappointed! Georgian cuisine is all about local fresh produce, magical sweet-tart pairings such as meat stews with sour plums or pomegranate, a vast array of spices and herbs, and features lots of nuts especially walnuts. And then there’s the wine… With an 8000 year history of wine making, hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, unique qvevri fermentation techniques (large earthenware vessels), and a wine colour scale from amber to black, wine tasting was a must! Do try: Khachapuri - soft, fluffy filled flat breads stuffed with meat, beans or cheese - it’s the ultimate comfort food! Ajapsandali - a rich Georgian ratatouille - the mix of vegetables is unique to each cook but the main ingredient is always aubergine and a good amount of garlic. Amusingly, ajapsandali is also used to describe a chaotic situation! Khinkali - boiled dumplings - the mushroom variety was my favourite. Chakapuli - an aromatic lamb stew flavoured with sour plums, onions and tarragon. Churchkhela - strings of dried fruits and nuts that look like they’ve been dipped in colourful wax but is actually a mixture of flour and concentrated grape juice. Matsoni -a fermented, creamy yogurt that’s delicious for breakfast with pieces of churchkhela The tea is amazing too in Georgia. Try the snow rose tea blend with rhododendron, blueberry leaves and rose petals. STAY The Rustaveli Avenue area (named after a famous Georgian poet) is very convenient as it’s easily walkable to restaurants and sights. You need a minimum of 3 nights but 4 or 5 nights would be better as there’s plenty to see and do. It’s also worth bearing in mind that there are no direct flights from the UK to Tbilisi, and with the current flights timings you’ll land at a very early hour of the morning so, factoring in an extra day to catch up on sleep is not a bad idea. WHEN TO GO Go late spring or early summer for the best weather. Tbilisi is in the lowlands and the summer can be intense - 40°C plus. In July and August many residents head for the cooler climes of coast or the mountains. Tbilisi is particularly festive in late May. An annual new winemakers festival is celebrated in Mtatsminda Park, with hundreds of winemakers, and you can enjoy a bottomless tastings… Georgia’s Independence Day also falls on 26 May and Rustaveli Avenue becomes a big open air street party. PERSONAL RECOMMENDATIONS Best restaurant - Racha in Tbilisi’s vibrant Sololaki neighborhood. It’s a typical local eatery - nothing special to look at, quite spartan and the service is perfunctory, but the homestyle cooking was some of the best we tried and we wished we’d had time to return. Dadi Wine Bar - a few steps away from the busy Freedom Square and great place to sample Georgian Wines. The length of the wine list (over 200) is a bit overwhelming but the staff were very helpful in making suggestions. Shopping for local handicrafts - Ethnodesign run by the association of Georgian Heritage Crafts. Near Rustaveli Underground Station, this shop has a lovely selection jewellery and decorative items all beautifully made using traditional crafting methods such as enamel work, wood carving, felting etc.. TIPS You’ll need a headscarf to visit churches. Phones/cameras aren’t allowed in some churches. There's no real tipping culture. Service charge is often included already. If not, round up the bill rather than leaving a tip. Reserve at popular restaurants a few days ahead. The eating out scene in Tbilisi can be busy, especially in the last couple of years with the influx of Ukrainian refugees and Russian exiles. Some places openly express anti-Russian sentiment so be mindful that politics can be touchy. Some restaurants won’t accept Russian patrons while Ukrainians are welcome.

02 June 2022

The M1 is the backbone of Malawi’s road network and connects the north and south of the country. The similarities to our M1 from London to Leeds end there. Malawi has few cities and none of them large; it’s predominantly a rural country and an unexpected African gem… Driving along Malawi’s mostly single carriageway M1, you’ll find local markets spilling onto the road, bicycle taxis stacked high with seemingly implausible loads, roadside shops with names like ‘Slow but Sure’ to make you smile, women in colourful wraps balancing bundles of firewood on their heads, and far-reaching vistas of the ribbon-like Lake Malawi, which stretches nearly three quarters of the country’s length. Malawi is my happy place! I spent five wonderful years living here between 2010 and 2015, managing lodges from the wildflower rich grasslands of the Nyika Plateau to the lush, tropical environs of Liwonde National Park. Sitting on the southern branch of the Great Rift Valley, the resulting geology has gifted this land-locked country spectacular landscapes of peaks, plateaus, escarpments and lakes. These beauty spots are strung out along the M1, and with Malawi’s small size (about half that of the UK), its possible to explore many of the highlights by road in a two-week holiday. A popular place to start a journey in Malawi is in the southern region, flying into the commercial centre of Blantyre. The city is surrounded by the fertile Shire Highlands and gloriously green and exquisitely manicured tea and coffee estates. A short stay on the Satemwa Estate makes a scenic start to a holiday with a range of activities on offer from tea tasting and coffee tours, to hiking or mountain biking, as well as day trips to Mount Mulanje known locally as the ‘island in the sky’, because it rises dramatically from the plains to 3000m. Also within easy reach of Blantyre is the vast expanse of Majete Game Reserve, Malawi’s first Big Five wildlife reserve. Amidst the rugged scenery of granite hills and mature woodlands are good populations of elephant and buffalo, as well as magnificent sable antelope not often seen in other safari locations. Travelling northwards up the M1 is another wildlife treat. Liwonde National Park sits on the palm fringed banks of the Shire River. Boat safaris here truly offer some of the best river-based game viewing in Africa. The river is wide and slow flowing; pods of hippos float like oversized logjams in the shallows, enormous crocodiles sun themselves on the banks, in the heat of the day elephants line the water’s edge for a much needed drink, and on the grassy floodplains impala and waterbuck graze contentedly. The birdlife is vibrant, dazzlingly colourful and easily seen too. Jewel-like malachite kingfishers zip along the reeds close to the boats and vocal African Fish Eagles perch in the tall trees scanning the river for their next meal. For birders, Liwonde is a great spot for localised species including Bohm’s bee-eater and Lilian’s lovebirds, rarities such as African Skimmers and Palm Nut Vulture as well as the elusive Pel’s Fishing Owl. Both these parks are testament to Malawi’s wildlife conservation success. With the help of African Parks, Malawi has carried out some incredible wildlife translocations and reintroductions. Lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dogs, and black rhino are just some of the animals that have returned to Malawi’s wild places and are now spotted regularly on safari. Continuing north up the M1 you arrive at Lake Malawi. It is also known as the Lake of Stars, so called by Dr David Livingstone, the first European to map out the lake, who thought the fisherman’s lanterns at night resembled the stars in the sky. Lake Malawi is so enormous (365 miles long and 52 miles wide) that it is hard to believe it is freshwater! The lakeshore is perfect for swimming, snorkelling, kayaking, diving or lazy days with a book... Sunsets are exceptional – the fiery colours reflected in the rippling waters - and a Malawi Gin & Tonic (MGT) is practically mandatory… What’s more much its shores boast dreamy sandy beaches that are practically empty bar a few fishermen and local children playing games. At this point on your trip, depending on your pace of travel and how long you have, you may have already filled your holiday time and sadly have to leave. In which case, you can conveniently fly out of the capital Lilongwe, which is located in Central Malawi. Should you wish to stay on the M1, then North Malawi although less well known than the rest of the country has some unique highlights. Nyika National Park is Malawi’s largest and one of the most unusual in Africa. It spans a gigantic rolling grass-covered plateau that stretches as far as the eye can see. The high altitude environment (over 2100m) produces exceptional plant diversity – think African alpine meadow dotted with roan antelope, warthog and leopard… Aside from conventional safaris, Nyika is a fantastic walking and birding destination. Another alternative from Lilongwe is to take a short flight to the castaway-like island of Likoma, in the north-eastern corner of Lake Malawi, close to the shores of Mozambique. This petite unspoilt island has outstanding beaches, crystal clear waters, and a surprising amount of colonial history – notably St Peter’s Cathedral which is the same size as Winchester Cathedral! It is easy to discover on foot, by bike or quad bike. Throughout Malawi there is a range of accommodation styles to suit many travellers from tiny off-grid eco camps, to traditional safari lodges, friendly home-from-home guesthouses, and awarding winning luxury lodges. Saving the best till last – perhaps one of the biggest benefits of travelling by road is getting a more real sense of local life. Malawi is a super friendly country and you’ll be greeted with sunny smiles and happy curiosity wherever you go. If you’re adventurous and looking for a natural paradise away from the crowds then Malawi should be on your to-visit list! Footnote: Although it is possible to self-drive in Malawi, it is better suited to the more experienced Africa driver. On the whole, the roads are not nearly as good as in South Africa or Namibia. Car hire can also be expensive, so local driver guides are a good option. They know the roads and drive them every day, so you can just relax and enjoy the journey, and at the same time ask all about the places you’re going to and the local culture.