My 18 night Cuban adventure...
Bienvenido a Cuba! Welcome to Cuba!
I had organised a tour in Cuba. I felt, as a solo traveller, this was the best way to get around to seeing all the flavours and style Cuba had to offer. Arriving at the small warm airport, you soon become accustomed to the relaxed character of the Cubans. The luggage will arrive when they are ready, and not a moment sooner. It brought a smile to most of us waiting, and the sheer joy when you are reunited with your case! I got a taxi outside of the airport, I would normally pre-book my own, but I figure it’s all in the name of research! I wasn’t disappointed. A vintage car awaited me! It was around 11pm, but the excitement outweighed the tiredness – the Cuban salsa music playing from the speakers reminded me of the adventure that awaited me.
I stayed at Nacional de Cuba for 2 nights on my own. Grand chandeliers deluge the sharp white walls with light and the tile floors glisten beneath my feet. Mahogany furnishings adorn the space and brass fixtures provide the final touches on the sense of time and space preserved here. My room was big, well maintained and history surrounded me. A national monument, the Hotel Nacional de Cuba is a beacon for Cuban history as well as culture. It is a widely celebrated fact that only Cubans work here.
“We are 100 percent Cubana” Aeleen tells me. “The hotel holds the great values of our culture.”
Yet the hotel did not have such beginnings. Opened as the National Hotel of Cuba on December 30, 1930, the hotel was built and operated by Americans as a hotel for American tourists. When the hotel first opened, no Cubans could stay here.
The hotel was designed by the prestigious architectural firm McKim, Mead & White, which also designed such iconic buildings as Columbia University in New York City and the Boston Public Library. The hotel has a similar architectural design to The Breakers in Palm Beach, Florida. Both hotels look nearly identical from the outside.
The Hotel Nacional de Cuba boasts a long list of famous guests including Gary Cooper and Erroll Flynn in the 1930’s, Fred Astaire, Rita Hayworth, and Cantinflas, an actor from Mexico’s Golden Age of Cinema in the 1940’s, and Marlon Brando, Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner and Walt Disney in the 1950’s.
Following the Cuban Revolution in 1959, the hotel shifted its focus to accommodate friends of the revolution including Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space, and Gaberiel García Márquez, author of Love in the Time of Cholera.
In more recent years, as tourism has been off limits to most Americans, the hotel has hosted a wealth of diplomats and world leaders, including Vladmir Putin, President of Russia, Evo Morales, President of Bolivia, Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, former President of Iran, and Xi Jinping, President of China. Former President Jimmy Carter also stayed here, and US Secretary of State John Kerry paid a visit in August 2015 during his trip to reopen the Embassy.
Official Tour...
Day 1: Havana
I met with my fellow travellers today. What a great bunch of humans to travel with! Another English male traveller, 4 Australians, 1 Swiss guy being the youngest in his early 20s, and me.
Accommodation: Local standard guesthouse (1 night)
Activities • Havana - Revolution museum • Havana - National Museum of Fine Arts • Havana - Tourist bus day pass
Day 2: Havana
Havana's history is as colourful as its cars and buildings. Today, we went on a guided tour of the Havana vieja. Havana remains one of the great colonial cities of the Americas. An air of faded glory comes through in the peeling paint of some of its grand old buildings. Narrow streets, spacious plazas and Spanish architecture make it a charm to explore on foot. Visit La Catedral San Cristobal de la Habana, the Palacio de los Marqueses de Aguas Claras and the Plaza de Armas. Also visit the Museo de la Revolucion, to learn about the history of the Cuban Revolution.
Afterwards, we enjoyed some free time to further explore on our own. We ended up escaping the rain on a cruise around Outer-Havana in a pink convertible vintage American car. You had a lineup of cars to your choosing, 2 of our travellers were big vintage car enthusiasts and simply couldn’t choose one – they went on 2 or 3 rides during their stay.
Alternatively, you could simply stroll along the Malecon or join the hundreds of locals lining up to eat a Coppelia ice-cream. Heavily subsidised by the government, a whole bowl will set you back about 10 cents.
Accommodation: Another night in the same standard guesthouse.
Activities • Havana - Camera Obscura entrance • Havana - Vintage American car tour • Havana - Ernest Hemingway tour • Havana - Cigar factory tour
Day 3: Varadero to Cienfuegos
A slight change of plan. We were hit but the tropical storm during my stay here. This just meant detours were necessary due to excessive flooding. To get to Cienfuegos we had to cross a bridge, a bridge that was currently under water.
We agreed to stay one night in Varadero, great for me knowing this a generally the place my customers seek. Our guide explains it was once going to be Vegas before Las Vegas, Varadero was built by the Americans having the Mafia play their part in developing. Varadero stands at the vanguard of Cuba’s most important industry – tourism. As the largest resort in the Caribbean, it guards a huge, unsubtle and constantly evolving stash of hotels (over 60), shops, water activities and poolside entertainment; though its trump card is its beach, an uninterrupted 20km stretch of blond sand that is undoubtedly one of the Caribbean's best. But, while this large, tourist-friendly mega-resort may be essential to the Cuban economy, it offers little in the way of unique Cuban experiences. Most Varadero tourists buy their vacation packages overseas and are content to idle for a week or two enjoying the all-inclusiveness of their resort (and why not?). However, if you’re touring Cuba independently, and want to swap your backcountry rambling for some stress-free beach life, Varadero can provide a few nights of well-earned sloth after a dusty spell on the road.
Accommodation: beautiful guesthouse, we felt spoilt at the size and comfort of this local house.
Day 4: Cienfuegos to Trinidad
On the way to Cienfuegos today, we all attempted to pick up some Spanish from our leader. We unfortunately didn’t make our first stop at the peaceful sandy arc of Playa Giron, which sits on the eastern side of the Bahia de Cochinos, better known as the Bay of Pigs. It was famously here that the CIA sponsored a failed invasion by exile forces in 1961. A reason to revisit and discover the story of the Cuban victory at the Museo Giron, which holds displays of various military equipment and photos of the men who fought here. It’s not just the history that’s the attraction here – with crystal clear Caribbean waters, a deep underwater wall, and an outstanding variety of coral and fish, it’s a haven for snorkelers.
We travelled on to Cienfuegos, known affectionately as 'The Pearl of the South'. Part of the city's appeal lies in its colonial centre, which features wide Parisian-style boulevards and elegant colonnades. Drive along the peninsula to see Cienfuegos' architectural pride and joy, the Moroccan-influenced Palacio del Valle.
Accommodation: Local guest house.
Activities • Bay of Pigs - Visit and swim • Playa Giron - Museum Giron Entrance and Film • Informal Spanish lesson with leader • Cienfuegos - Visit to the Palacio del Valle
Leave Cienfuegos and head north to the final resting place of Cuba’s most famous son. In Santa Clara (approximately 1 hour), we visited the Che Guevara mausoleum and memorial. Che's remains were brought here after they were found in a remote corner of Bolivia in 1997, where he was assassinated by the CIA-backed Bolivian army. The impressive bronze statue of Che bearing his rifle and learning about his incredible life sent shivers. Then it’s a short drive south, through the Topes de Collantes National Park to Trinidad, which sits on the scenic Caribbean coast (approximately 1.5 hours). For many visitors to Cuba, Trinidad is a standout destination. No other colonial city in Cuba is as well preserved, and the local residents are extremely friendly and festive. Trinidad is steeped in religion, including the Afro-Cuban religion of Santeria, which has connections to Voodoo. On an orientation walk today, see the former wealth generated by the sugar industry in the town's once-grand mansions, colourful public buildings, wrought iron grill-work and cobble-stoned streets.
You can choose to party the night away at one of the town’s live music venues or why not take in a folklore show at one of the town's numerous open-air venues. We needed a good night sleep after our busy day!
Accommodation: standard guesthouse
Activities • Santa Clara - Visit to Che Guevara Mausoleum and Museum • Trinidad - Orientation walk • Trinidad - Live music venues entrance (varies depending on venue) • Trinidad - Santeria Priest Visit
Day 5: Trinidad
Today was a very important day indeed – my birthday! I was already excited about the fact I was sharing my day with some of the best humans and sights but, to top it off – today was our first group salsa lesson! I was surprised with the biggest cake I think my 33 years had ever seen, my group and locals sung to me - and then of course the breakfast rum arrived! For anyone who knows me, knows I love dancing – it’s at my core. Cuba has a hugely rich and varied dance and musical tradition that draws its roots from Africa and France. Many styles that have greatly influenced music worldwide originated in Cuba, such as Mambo, Cha-cha-cha, son and rumba. We danced, eat cake and drank rum straight - we were officially Cuban!
As our trip unfolded we also had a chance to get a hands-on with the musical instruments like we were part of the local band. We also got to practice our local rhythms at a certain venue hidden within a cave! This is a must see to believe.
Whilst here it’s a good opportunity to visit the Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra los Bandidos and the Casa de los Mártires de Trinidad; both chronicle the struggles of the revolutionary period in the town's history.
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Activities • Trinidad - Disco in a cave • Trinidad - Museo Romantico - • Trinidad - Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra los Bandidos • Trinidad - Musical instrument lesson (guitar, double bass, tres, percussion - per hour) • Trinidad - Informal Salsa lesson
Day 6: Trinidad
Trinidad is a standout destination in its own right, but it's also the gateway to the Valle de los Ingenios, and a bike is a great way to explore the local area. Be warned however: Cuba's bicycles, like its cars, are vintage, which means a little bit of practicality may be sacrificed for the romantic element! There are also some great treks to be made in the nearby Sierra del Escambray mountains; maybe drive along the legendary twists and turns of the road to El Nicho, then hike to its beautiful waterfall. Playa Ancon is also close by – there’s plenty of opportunity for relaxing on its long, unspoilt beaches or snorkelling through the clear waters (just watch carefully for sea urchins, which can be a problem here).
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Activities • Trinidad - Trek to El Nicho Waterfall (taxi, entrance fee & guide) • Trinidad - Ancon beach shuttle bus • Trinidad - Bicycle rental (full day)
Day 7: Camaguey
We travelled through the centre of the country to Camaguey (approximately 5-6 hours). Despite its size, Cuba's third largest city has managed to retain much of its colonial heritage. Exploring the city's winding streets is half the fun. The city was planned in a deliberately confusing pattern to disorient any would-be assailants. As you walk through the city you may still see Tinajones – large clay pots used for collecting water. On your explorations, stop by the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad to see its baroque frescoes. Camaguey has a rich tradition of cultural and technological leadership within Cuba. It is the birthplace of poet laureate Nicolas Guillen and home of the Ballet de Camaguey. Cuba's first radio and television emissions were broadcast from Camaguey, and the country's first airport and commercial flights were planned and executed here.
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Activities • Camaguey - Orientation walk • Camaguey - Casa de la Trova
Day 8: Camaguey
What a laugh we had, we met at 10am to enjoy a tour of Camaguey by bicycle taxi. Except our young brave Swiss who decided to see just how hard it would be? Cycling is a popular form of transport in Cuba, and bicycle taxis are very common. In the confusing streets of Camaguey, it's a particularly good way to get around. On the tour, we visited a local market, parks, plazas and an art gallery. Each taxi carries two passengers. Camaguey's is a particularly busy and colourful market. There are separate areas for produce sold by the state and produce sold by farmers directly to the public. There are plenty of interesting tropical fruits, vegetables and herbs available. This is where the locals come to buy their food once their monthly food ration runs out.
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Activities • Camaguey - Bicycle taxi city tour • Camaguey - Ballet performance
Day 9: Santiago de Cuba
Head west along the Carretera Central to Santiago de Cuba with a stop in Bayamo. Today was the longest travel day of the trip. Santiago is the hottest place in Cuba – in terms of both temperature and the vibe of the city! Set between the indomitable Sierra Maestra mountain range and the azure Caribbean, this city's historical centre and colonial architecture retain a timeworn air ideal for photographers.
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Day 10: Santiago de Cuba
We set off on a three-hour city tour of Santiago. We visited El Morro Castle, Ifigenia cemetery and the Moncada barracks and learn about the city’s rich history. For nearly a century, the city was the island's seat of power and it also played a vital role in the Revolution. The people of Santiago were the first to rise up in arms against government troops in 1956, and it was in Santiago on January 1st, 1959, that Fidel Castro declared the triumph of the Revolution. With a strong Afro-Cuban heritage it's no surprise that Santiago has a vibrant music scene and is seen as Cuba’s capital of music. It’s the home of son music, which is a mix of Spanish guitar and African percussion. Santiago's half million residents are proud of their cultural traditions, so you'll find many museums and cultural clubs around the city. The city is also famous for its energetic Carnaval celebrations and its lively Festival of Caribbean Culture. All this will entice the shyest, most left-footed dancer and the non-musically inclined to learn some more salsa moves or take a lesson in local music.
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Activities • Santiago de Cuba - half day city tour • Santiago de Cuba - Salsa lesson (1 hour) • Santiago de Cuba - La Gran Piedra Mountain (Entrance only) • Santiago - Use of a Hotel Pool • Santiago - Tropicana Cabaret Show
Day 11: Baracoa
A spectacular five-hour journey to Baracoa took us through the dry region surrounding Guantanamo, dotted with cacti and wiry goats, and then along the dramatic Atlantic coastline, before winding through verdant mountains to Baracoa. On the way, you will get the chance to visit the Mirador de Malones for a pretty good view of the Guantanamo Naval Base and surrounding bay. At present the base is not open to the public.
Baracoa is set on a beautiful bay, this was the first colonial town, and it’s one of the most beautiful in Cuba. As one of Cuba’s major agricultural zones, Baracoa is a great place to try local foods. It’s one of the best places for chocolate, and street vendors and small restaurants offer local specialties like prawns in coconut sauce and banana-stuffed tamales. One particularly sought-after Baracoa specialty is the cucurucho, a sweet treat of coconut, sugar, and fruit wrapped in dried cone-shaped palm leaves.
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Activities • Guantanamo Bay - Viewpoint & Tower (Time & weather dependent) • Baracoa - Orientation walk
Day 12: Baracoa
The town was only accessible by sea until 1960, and even after a road linking Baracoa to Guantanamo was built, the settlement maintained a small-town colonial feel. Uncover its individuality as you wander along its beautiful malecon or ramble over various forts that were built to withstand pirate attacks. The Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion boasts a bust of the indigenous leader Hatuey, who was burned at the stake for refusing to accept the Spanish and their Catholicism. You might prefer to chill on a beach or get active with a hike to El Yunke, the famous table-top mountain sighted by Columbus during his first voyage to the island.
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Activities • Baracoa - Bar and nightclub entries • Baracoa - Duaba Finca tour • Baracoa - El Yunque waterfall hike • Baracoa - El Yunque mountain hike
Day 13: Baracoa
If I had the time and it perhaps was slightly cooler, I would have liked to of hiked through the rainforest to explore nearby caves and waterfalls. Instead, I visited Humboldt Nation Park, looking out for colourful parrots, lizards and hummingbirds. We then took a boat tour down a nearby river, spotting wildlife along the way, stopping at a working farm to learn about life on the land. I was suffering with a cold on this day, and the medicine worked wonders – rum, honey and sugar, but you must drink it straight! My salsa certainly improved shortly after when we stopped for lunch and had an impromptu dance!
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Activities • Baracoa - Yumari river tour • Baracoa - Humbolt park hike • Baracoa - Maguana beach (return taxi) • Baracoa - Duaba Finca river tour
Day 14: Havana
Today take a one-and-a-half-hour flight from Baracoa to Havana. Please note that it is not uncommon for these flights to be delayed. This was quite an experience, not for those who perhaps get nervous flying. Aircrafts are small and follow the relaxed Cuban fashion! After arriving back into the capital, we head to Plaza de la Revolución for our final taste of Cuban revolutionary history, and tapas! After our final Pina Colada, mojito and cuba libre, I want to say we danced the night away, but we had a final farewell to our well needed bed. What a fantastic end to our adventure.
Accommodation: Standard guesthouse
Activities • Havana - Revolution Square • Havana - Jose Marti Memorial Tower • Havana - Buena Vista Social Club
Day 15 & 16: Havana
I spent an additional 2 days getting lost in Havana, dancing, exploring and absorbing the beautiful happy go lucky vibes of the Cuban people! If you aren't sure where in Cuba is for you, that's why you have me! Please don't hesitate to contact me for your personal, bespoke quotation.
Ciao! Shara