Escape to the Lake District

Tracie Cooke on 05 September 2019
This beautiful part of England should be on all 'to do' lists! 912 square miles of picturesque patchwork countryside, with more than 150 high peaks and 16 lakes; enough to keep even the most adventurous visitor amused.

Set in Ambleside and just a short walk from Lake Windemere, was our holiday base. Equipped with everything you would expect in a 4* hotel but with more space and freedom. What it lacked in leisure facilities, it made up for in charm and comfort. The owners have gone to great lengths to ensure a comfortable stay; the cottage has a Hive heating system, Wi-Fi and a power shower; you'll find a hairdryer and hair straighteners, along with cosy throws and even books and games to keep you amused. There is a welcome manual telling you about the area and all kitchen appliance instructions are available. They really have thought of everything. There is a small patio garden with some outdoor furniture, perfect for al fresco dining and a pre-dinner drink. There is a useful car parking pass too; a little tricky to find a space, but only £5 per day if you can't. Most car parks are just a few minutes’ walk from the cottage.

Ambleside is packed full of quirky shops, bars and restaurants and it's fairly easy to navigate from the cottage, making evenings out very enjoyable with an easy stroll back after dinner. Restaurant choices are vast, and we found the overall quality to be good and reasonably priced. You'll find everything from traditional English pub fayre, Italian, Indian, Vegetarian and Chinese; not to mention an array of coffee shops, sandwich shops and takeaways too. You can pick up supplies from a handful of supermarkets if you prefer to eat in; all within easy walking distance of the cottage.

Ambleside is home to 17th century Bridge House, allegedly the smallest house in England and one that is now looked after by the National Trust. It was once home to six people! It is certainly a crowd pleaser with the traffic slowing down as it passes this tiny structure, straddling Stock Ghyll. Look across the road and you will see an old water mill and wheel at the bottom of a pretty cascade. Close by you'll also find Cumbria University campus at Ambleside, the only UK university situated within a National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Having a student community certainly gives Ambleside a vibrant and eclectic ambiance. This little town has a unique charm and character and whilst not situated directly on the lake front, shouldn't be dismissed.

At Waterhead you’ll find a lakeside café that serves a unique chocolate dipped ice cream, highly recommended! You’ll also be able to rent your own small motor cruiser to take an independent trip across the lake. If you’re looking for a more active break, try the water-sports centre between Ambleside and Windemere; here you’ll find everything from Paddle Boarding and Windsurfing to Sailing and Water-Skiing. There is also a high ropes course in the vicinity. If you're in need of some relaxation, there are some excellent Spa facilities in the area, many of which are open to non-residents for a daily fee. Particularly good are the Salutation in Ambleside and the Macdonald Old England in Bowness. During busy periods, it is better to book in advance.

A public transport network links each of the main towns and villages in the Lake District. This has been cleverly implemented to discourage car use; you can purchase an unlimited rover ticket for 24hrs. The local Tourist Board are actively encouraging visitors to make use of this service, particularly during the peak summer months, when traffic congestion and parking can be problematic One of the benefits of staying in Ambleside is that you really don't need a car at all. We parked ours on arrival and didn't use it again until the day we came home!

The ferry boats run at regular intervals from Waterhead, from early morning until around 6pm and tickets are valid on all services.

The purpose of our visit was to get out and walk and despite the very mixed weather, we made the most of it. Following a trail through the woods directly above Ambleside, passing waterfalls and with fabulous viewpoints, we headed for Troutbeck. A tiny hamlet with a great little café, that was once the village Post office, for a lunch stop and the perfect place to pick up some supplies to keep you going, as the walk gets tougher beyond this point. We headed up Wansfell Pike; now this is not for the faint hearted and is a bit of a struggle in parts. With some steep and uneven terrain going up and even worse beyond the summit coming back down! The views are spectacular on a clear day, looking over Lake Windemere, Kirkstone Pass and Ambleside itself. The route is around eight miles with an elevation of approximately 2000 feet. Worth the effort and the reward of coffee and cake when you get back down.

Our next outing was to take the lake cruiser to Bowness on Windemere, this calls at Wray Castle on the western side of the lake and where you can disembark to visit the Castle itself and take the four-mile walk to Ferry House. This lakeside walk is easy to navigate for the whole family. You then pick up the cross lakes ferry to Bowness; where there are lots of places to eat and drink for a lunch stop. You'll also find the World of Beatrix Potter attraction here, popular with families. The beautiful Belsfield Hotel is also situated here, overlooking the lake from high on the hillside. With interiors designed by the team at Laura Ashley, this is the perfect place to take afternoon tea.

Our final day took us slightly north to Grasmere; this postcard pretty village once home to William Wordworth and immortalised in his own words ‘the loveliest spot that man hath ever found’ is set along the banks of the River Rothay and close to Grasmere lake, from which it takes its name. Most of the walking trails here are relatively flat and ideal for families. Grasmere is also the home of Sarah Nelsons famous original gingerbread. Housed in what was once the village school; it’s easy to locate as there is nearly always a queue outside! Step inside and step back in time. After taking one of the riverside walks here it is easy to justify your purchase from what has to be one of the smallest shops in England! You’ll find plenty of cafes and restaurants hidden in some beautiful 19th century buildings, in what is probably one of the prettiest villages in the Lake District.

We packed a lot into a few days, I'm sure you can too....