Seven Days, Seven Sunsets

Tracie Cooke on 10 October 2021
Like many, I often wondered if this trip would actually happen! What an absolutely joyous week we had on the sun blessed shores of the Algarve in Southern Portugal.

This is not a new destination for us, we've been visiting for over twenty five years and it has become our 'go to' destination for a late summer holiday. Without wishing to deter anyone, it's not for everyone at this time of year; the weather can be mixed and we've experienced wind, rain and sunshine on this rugged outcrop of western Europe. That said, it's probably one of the best places to view the sunset on the entire continent! With uninterrupted views across the rugged coastline and Atlantic Ocean, if you're a keen photographer, you'll be glad you paid a visit.

We are not avid sunbathers; we like to get out and explore and we never tire of the scenery; there are plenty of coastal walks for all abilities and most beaches are now backed by wooden boardwalks, making the views accessible to all. With the gradual opening of the motorway (actually a dual carriageway); the western Algarve has become far easier to access. Gone are the three to four hour transfers and now we can make the journey in under an hour!

The little village of Alvor has around 6000 local inhabitants; this swells dramatically over the peak summer months; yet the vast 3.5km sands have space aplenty and you will always find your 'place in the sun'. The town is also blessed with some great bars and restaurants and if food is important, you won't be disappointed. Our personal favourites are Arco Da Velha, where I tend to order monkfish; the Adega d'Alvor, whose almond crusted pork with red berries is delicious and the Green Door, a hidden gem that doesn't even have a sign on it! The fish here is fabulous, my favourite is golden bream. The cataplana here is also excellent. Our go to for a steak is the O Touro; again not on the main street but when you know, you know! Many of the best restaurants are very simply furnished, don't let that put you off; they are usually the ones you should visit. You can eat well for as little as 8-10 euros per person. We usually spend between 15-30 euros per person including drinks.

Our choice of accommodation for the past few years has been either the Alvor Praia or the South Beach, as both are located directly on the beach and have uninterrupted views of the sea. The former is a more traditional style hotel with plenty of space both inside and out and a range of facilities for the whole family to enjoy. A sea view is well worth paying for here and the balconies are large. The latter is a quirky, modern and minimal alternative; a little closer to town. What it lacks in facilities, it makes up for with style. Check-in includes a welcome drink at the bar and the rooms are very modern with many artistic touches. We’ve stayed in a number of different room types and this year it was a top floor duplex with a huge open plan bathroom and a bed in the centre of the room, taking full advantage of the sea view from its floor to ceiling windows. It’s certainly not a traditional place to stay and wouldn’t appeal to everyone but that is what makes it stand out, it is one of a kind.

There are a number of alternative accommodation options; including all inclusive hotels, although many of these tend to be quite some distance from the beach. There are also lots of self catering options. My personal favourites are Alvormar, set right in the centre of the village and recently upgraded; along with Alvor Park, where even the small apartments are huge compared to others in the area.

I’d highly recommend just staying on a bed and breakfast or self-catering basis, as there are so many fabulous places to eat out. There are a number of food stores and a supermarket that is well stocked and with local wine from under two euros a bottle, you can’t go too far wrong. There are also plenty of tourist shops and cashpoints along with bureau de change; although beware, these are closed at weekends. If you arrive at the weekend, take enough cash for a few days.

For those travelling with families, the beach here is hugely popular; with 3.5kms of sand, you’ll always find your ‘place in the sun’ whatever time of year you visit. Our favourite beach is right at the end of the bay; Praia Dos Tres Irmaos; it’s stunning! Most of it can only be accessed on foot when the tide is out, so plan your visit accordingly. It’s like walking in to an Algarve postcard!

Beach loungers and umbrellas are readily available and will cost around fifteen euros for a day, including two beds and a parasol. You can also purchase sun umbrellas from local stores and sit on the sand as you choose. This is a good option with smaller children, as you can sit closer to the water for paddling. There is plenty of space for sun-shade tents to be pitched too.

You’ll find plenty to do in the area; take a trip on one of the little boats that the traverse the waters and visit the larger town of Lagos situated across the estuary or the stunning blue grotto caves that are dotted along the coastline. Lagos is also home to the Algarve Zoo. For an active fun-filled day, head to the nearby waterpark in Lagoa or swim with dolphins at Zoomarine. Public transport is readily available if you choose not to drive. For most of the summer, you can also enjoy the sandcastle sculpture park at Armacao de Pera. There is a ruined castle at Silves, where you can take a walk around the old ramparts and see for miles on a clear day or take a trip into the mountains at Monchique, where there is a natural Spa. There are also a number of small wineries and vineyards where tastings are available and these can be fun and educational too.

This region is home to the Algarve racing circuit, which hosts a number of Grand Prix events throughout the year. The vintage Grand Prix is particularly popular and if you are a car enthusiast, I’d recommend a visit. It usually takes place mid-end October each year. Golf is also popular here and there are a number of prestigious courses that can be easily reached. Pestana Golf have a number of courses in this area and are less expensive than those courses closer to Faro itself.

This is a year round destination and probably one of the best kept secrets in Europe; why not discover it for yourself; It's an area I know well, do get in touch if you have any questions or want to find out more…