02 May 2017

As someone who loves to travel, there is always an added sense of anticipation before going somewhere that I’ve never been before, so I was really excited when the opportunity to go to Morocco presented itself. Having worked in travel for over ten years, I normally have a good idea about a country even if I’ve not been, but Morocco was different. With troubles in the Middle East over the last few years, it’s really dropped off the radar in terms of people asking for it . Well, I’m pleased to say that it is well and truly back on the map so to speak. After just a short 3 hour flight from the UK, I found myself in what felt like a whole different world. My trip consisted of 3 nights in the bustling city of Marrakech, with a quick visit to the serene and stunning Atlas Mountains and 1 night out on the coast at Essaouira (pronounced either Es ‘weera’ or just ‘Swera). Even in such a short trip, I was able to experience so much and I’m aware I only scratched the surface of this fascinating country. Because it’s so close, you can pop over for a long weekend or if you did want to, there’d be plenty to occupy you on a more involved trip of 2 or 3 weeks. Marrakech is a great mixture of the old and the new. Brand new hotels and wide roads give way to narrow rabbit warren souks, characterful riads and the iconic Jamaa El Fnaa Square which are located within the ancient city walls (the Medina). Walking around the Medina, I really felt like I was in an Indiana Jones film. The souk was quite relaxed and there is genuine artisan quality to be had if you have room in your suitcase! I picked up some sandalwood and frankincense for a fraction of the UK price. Within hours of arriving, having experienced a guided tour through the souk, I found myself people watching under a glorious sunset over the square with a local mint tea. I knew then that I was somewhere special. Dinner was at Salama, a restaurant just off the main square, where we had a banquet of traditional meze accompanied by freshly baked warm bread (I wish I’d known this was just the starter) all followed by melt in the mouth slow cooked lamb and chicken. To top it off, the meal was complimented by an array of dancers. A veritable feast for all the senses and what an introduction! In contrast to the hustle and bustle of Marrakech and only two hours away are the stunning Atlas Mountains. As the roads make their way away from the city and wind up through beautiful scenery, the people thin out and you can spend some quality time with nature. Whether you want to be active or just clear your head for a few days, the setting here is second to none and there are some world class places to stay in to enjoy it all. Finally, a trip out to Essaouira on the coast revealed a pristine beach as far as the eye could see but this town is more than just a beach. With another ancient walled city, the medina has a more relaxed feel and again there is a fantastic souk and beautiful riads (including the first ever one in Morocco) within. Essaouira is popular with surfers and comes complete with a laid back vibe. Again this is all within an easy 2 hour drive of Marrakech so combinable even on a short trip. As I sipped a cold beer as the sun went down on the end of my 4 night trip, I couldn't help but think I’d be coming back some day to explore this fascinating country some more. Overall, my impression of Morocco was that I felt safe. I felt welcome. I felt intrigued by the culture, food, people, souks all of which were amazing and so different to anywhere in Europe (after all, this is Africa). I also felt I should have come here a lot sooner than I did! In short, with year round decent weather, this is definitely a country to put back on your list of places to visit or revisit. I know I shall be doing the latter.

15 December 2016

Just over 10 years ago, I was lucky enough to call Tokyo my home for two years whilst I was teaching English in Japan. It really is a fantastic country full of intrigue and amazing contrasts. For example, a few hours on a bullet train (Shinkansen) will take you away from the Mega Cities of Honshu to unspoiled natural landscapes. Travel North in the winter for fantastic Ice Festivals in Hokkaido or South in the summer to snorkel in pristine turquoise waters off the tropical beaches of Okinawa. There is also a great contrast between the old and the new that work harmoniously together. Some of the most advanced technology in the world fits seamlessly together with the enchantingly traditional. So, whether you prefer a drink in the Robot Cafe in Tokyo or a traditional tea ceremony in a Kyoto teahouse, Japan really does have something to offer everyone. With family and friends over in Japan, I try to go back there at least once a year and one of the big things I miss is the amazing choice and quality of food. Tokyo alone has more than 150,000 restaurants, with the highest number of Michelin Starred outlets in the world. Whilst I’m there, I pretty much always have a list of the food I want to eat. Not all of it is Japanese and not all of it is gourmet, but in my opinion, it is still delicious and not to be missed. In no particular order, here are my top ten tasty treats in Tokyo 1. Tonkotsu Ramen - There are many different flavours of ramen (corn, salt, miso, etc.) but by far my favourite is tonkotsu. This is a rich meaty broth made from pork stock (it all adds pounds but, I’m on holiday). The main ingredient of the dish is ramen noodles, but you can add extras such as chashu (slow cooked pork), soft boiled eggs, beansprouts, seaweed etc. I normally have mine fully loaded with a side of gyoza (fried pork dumplings). There’s a place in Ookurayama (on the Tokyu Toyoko line) called Nanashi which is one of my favourite places to eat it. Please note that audible slurping is the norm whilst eating this dish. 2. Unagi (BBQ’d eel) - Forget the anaemic looking jellied eels of London and try this. Freshly prepared eel, BBQ’d in a special sweet sauce and served on perfectly steamed rice. I have heard that this dish gives men a boost too! Narita (not strictly Tokyo) is a great place to eat this, which is close to the international airport if you have an afternoon to spare before a flight. There is also an impressive temple with gardens to have a wander around. 3. Sushi - A must try dish when in Japan. There are many types of sushi and not all of them contain raw fish (sashimi). There are sushi restaurants everywhere you go and they are normally all good quality and value. The cheaper places tend to give you bigger portions of rice to fill you up faster! I recently went to a sushi place that delivered your dishes on a shinkansen train which was good fun, but if you want it fresh, you can’t go wrong with the many outlets next to Tsukiji, the world’s largest fish market. 4. Yaki Niku - Basically, this is grilled meat, but you do the grilling. There is a hot plate in the middle of the table, you order the raw meat and vegetables and then you cook it. It’s great fun, very sociable and because of the quality of the meat, it’s hard to undercook anything and make yourself ill! Because this is derived from a Korean concept, you can normally order a nice side of spicy kimchi too. 5. Hiroshima yaki - I like to think of this as a Japanese version of bubble and squeak. The dish is famous in Osaka, but the Hiroshima version has the addition of noodles. A batter is cooked on an open teppan plate in front of you with cabbage, pork, noodles and egg to create an amazing omelette style dish. It is covered with a fruity brown sauce, lashings of mayonnaise and bonito flakes that dance invitingly in the heat. An old haunt of mine that comes highly recommended is Kyo No Sin in Jiyugaoka. If you get the season right, order a side of yaki kaki (grilled oysters). 6. Tempura - Perfectly light and crispy battered prawns, fish, scallops, butternut squash, aubergine, asparagus, sweet potato. Dip simply in salt, lemon, seasoning. What’s not to like? One of the most famous places is Ten-ichi in Ginza which also has restaurants in other locations. It’s not cheap, but it’s worth it. Try for the bar seating where everything is cooked in front of you. 7. Supermarket delights - I love going into supermarkets when I’m abroad because it gives me an insight into what people buy and eat at home. Japanese supermarkets are full of ready to eat treats. I love the array of Koroke (potato croquettes) with fillings ranging from cheese to crab in cream sauce (I know, but remember, I’m on holiday). They also have amazing quality sushi and freshly made onigiri (rice balls with various fillings) which are to the Japanese what the sandwich is to the British. If you go in the early evening when they are reducing the prices, you can balance out the cost of the tempura you ate last night. 8. Department store desserts - No one does French patisserie like…well, the French, but Japan has to be a close second. In the basements of high end department stores lies a floor full of amazing outlets selling great food. If you have little shame, you can fill up on the free samples from a lot of them, but one mouthful is never enough. The presentation and taste is exquisite. 9. Izakayas - These are the Japanese version of pubs. They are not free for all seating with a bar however. You are normally seated with your party and service is of the table variety. There is usually a great selection of dishes that you order to share amongst the table rather than just ordering one thing to eat yourself. Edamame, karage (deep fried chicken), tofu, noodles, fried rice, vegetables, yaki tori (chicken skewers), sashimi, sushi, the list is huge. Excellent food to share with friends along with a few cold draught beers (As luck would have it, Japan has an excellent choice of lagers). These establishments are not always at ground level, so keep your eyes peeled upwards. 10. Gyu don - A bowl of thinly sliced seasoned beef/pork and onion on top of steamed rice. Cheap, simple, delicious. Add some picked ginger for some zing. Yoshinoya is probably the most well known ‘fast food’ chain to serve this dish and it will only cost you a few pounds. Who said Tokyo was expensive? I hope you find joy in trying some or all of the above. If you ever want to visit this amazing country or just want some advice on what to do when you’re there, please give me a call.