A long weekend in... Prague

That little pocket of opportunity between Christmas and New Year is always my favourite time to go away. Work is sleepy, civilisation is in a lull and most places are still all dressed up for Christmas. This year, we took ourselves off to Prague. Having previously visited (and adored) Vienna, I wanted more Austro-Hungarian oomph, hearty fare and good beer. It did not disappoint.

Getting to Prague is a doddle, there’s regular flights and it’s a famously good value city break so expect it to stack up well on budget. It’s reasonable when you’re there too, but like most European cities now, prices are high once you hit the centre.

We stayed in a leafy suburb of the city, around half an hour’s walk from the Charles Bridge and the main, big-hitting highlights. We’d picked an apartment, because, with a kid, it’s just easier to try and have a bit more of a defined living/sleeping set up, plus a little kitchen was a god send. I’m quickly realising that toddlers and city breaks can be a bit hard work, but, ultimately, worth it. I’d booked four nights, and with great flight times, it worked out that we’d have five full days, plenty of time to explore this beautiful city.

Prague is definitely easy on the eye. As you walk into the handsome city centre, either through opulent wide streets lined with palatial buildings, or along the Vltava River where hills rise steeply in the background overlooking the city, you’re never far away from an enormous, gold-gilded gothic church, or a grand boulevard. Which, although imposing at any time of the year, are even more beautiful in the glow of wrought iron streetlamps and glittering Christmas trees.

The winter months are obviously high Christmas markets time in cities across the continent, and Prague leads the way with some of the most notable in Europe. Our main entre to the city every day was a stroll down Wenceslas Square, watched over by a huge statue of a horseback St Wenceslas. Christmas markets line the road from around halfway down with towering Christmas trees and traditional treats (like a griddled camembert and doughnut curled into a cone, filled with ice cream). The main one though, is in the Old Town Square. We stumbled upon it by mistake and couldn’t believe how absurdly pretty the area was. It feels much more quaint around here, still grand, and very touristy, but filled with lots of narrow back alleys and tunnels through the buildings. This is also the home of the famous Astronomical Clock, the third oldest in the world, and the oldest to still be operating now. It comes alive at the hour with moving people and chimes. Hundreds and hundreds gather to watch it, even late at night.

The main pull for many though, is the Charles Bridge. You know when you’re getting to the Charles Bridge because suddenly the streets are ten-thick. It’s so busy around here but crossing the Vltava across the beautifully ornate bridge lined with grand statues remains the top thing to do. One of my customers had mentioned to me that we must play Smetana’s The Moldau as we cross; a classical piece dedicated to the Vltava. So, with a pram to part the crowd, and our phone blasting out, we drifted back to a more peaceful place in Prague’s less touristy past.

On the other side of the river, Mala Strana (or lesser town) crawls up the hillside, in a pretty higgledy-piggledy way with more of the same colourful grand buildings and a stately riverside park where a lovely restaurant aside a stream plays live music and offers blankets and roaring fire pits for cosy al fresco drinks, even in December.

If you’re a low carb, vegetarian, non-drinker, look away now. Prague’s cuisine is heavy on the stomach, light on the vegetables and always with dense bready dumplings, perfect for soaking up the plentiful beer! Like most places now though, if the more traditional food scene doesn’t tickle your pickle, there’s plenty of more international choices dotted around the city. On the outskirts of town, expect to pay a couple of quid for a meal, and a pound or so for a beer. In the centre, easily times that amount by five or six (or more).

I loved the city, and found it the ideal choice for a good value, family-friendly break. It could definitely also be tailored to something a little more romantic, or a little more lively. You’ll find some river cruise lines offer a pre or past stay here before heading over to the Danube which would be another superb way to explore more of this pretty and historically fascinating region.

Planning a long weekend? Jetting off for a few days in a new city is pretty much my favourite thing in the world. So, I’d love to help you plan and get the most out of yours.