Jumping ship… Why choose a river cruise

Jasmin Shaw on 04 April 2018
Double-checking my itinerary; Nuremberg, Regensburg, Kelheim, Durnstein, Melk and Vienna (with the exception of Vienna) I have to say I wasn’t exactly inspired by the idea of my upcoming river cruise. Although the thought of twinkling Christmas markets was a lovely one – the idea of these little-known destinations at the back-end of November paled in comparison to my normal – and sunny - ocean-going itineraries.

As a new to river cruiser, I admit I had turned up with more than a handful of preconceptions. Would it be boring, claustrophobic, and maybe a bit like God’s waiting room? In my head, yes.

Thankfully, on arrival at my ship, the 180(ish) passenger Emerald Sun, its elegant, ultra-modern silhouette set against the dramatic scenery of the Danube quickly quashed my fears. And, as a waiting member of the ship’s friendly staff handed me a welcome cocktail on stepping into the ship’s bright atrium – with possibly the most stylish lighting I’ve ever laid eyes on – my opinion had done a complete 180.

My cabin, a Panorama Balcony Suite on the Sun’s middle deck was calm and minimalist. So minimalist in fact that it appeared to have no discernible storage. Not good when you have a suitcase full of thick winter clothes for exploring Bavaria in November, and a full gamut of swish evening wear. That was, until, my cabin steward started touching spots on the walls, behind mirrors, under the desk, to reveal cleverly-concealed storage. Because these ships may be smaller than their ocean-going counterparts, but every inch of space has been used to maximum effect.

Take my balcony for example, a wall of glass with a button at the side. It might be a bit parky in November to sit outside, so your cabin features an integrated terrace where you can enjoy the spectacular views in the warmth (the in-cabin TV features a log fire, now how’s that for cosy?). But for those leisurely days when the sun shines and you simply want to put your feet up with a coffee and watch the world go by, a push of the button brings the top of the glass sliding down, letting the outside in.

I could go on about the ship; slick in every detail and with such a laidback atmosphere, but I’ll focus on a key couple of points instead. Facilities-wise, you’re never going to be watching West End shows or surfing out on deck. There’s a lot to be said though for taking a dip in the ship’s small-but-perfectly-formed indoor pool after a busy day’s exploring. Or snuggling up under a blanket with a bucket of popcorn and a good movie in the evening. Sitting here at the back of the ship, with the twinkling lights of the quaint villages, historic towns and vibrant cities slowly fading away as you undulate gently down the river is really a whole other form of entertainment altogether.

Because river cruising, as it turns out, isn’t trying to compete with ocean cruising – it’s carving out its own niche altogether. Itineraries, and dining, are all about the destinations you visit. And no, you probably won’t recognise a lot of the names of the ports you’re visiting when you first book, but by the end of your cruise, the perfect combination of relaxed and bustling will have you aching to cross off more unfamiliar spots.

For me, my first foray down the Danube was exceptional. From the themed Bavarian lunch (imagine sausages, lots of sausages) washed down by copious amounts of beer after a day tour of medieval Regensburg, to the deliciously decadent a la carte dinners accompanied by regional wines. Included tours ticking off the main highlights of the area and a constantly evolving riverscape, rolling vineyards one moment, a fairytale castle the next guarantee you’re never short of something new to admire.

So, it might not have been sunny, and I did come away with the mentality of ‘seen one Christmas market, seen them all’ but would I jump at the chance to eschew an ocean cruise to take to the rivers again? In a heartbeat.