Getting lost in Venice!

I was lucky to have the opportunity of spending a few days in Venice (whilst my husband was working) a few weeks ago (mid-Nov 2018). This was my third visit to the city, but the other two visits were so long ago it was like being there for the first time. We were very lucky with the weather and although the city had suffered a recent and particularly bad ‘acqua alta’ – we had blue skies and sunshine most days and there wasn’t a puddle in sight!

After having a cappuccino and the most delicious (buonissimo!) almond brioche, in a wonderfully local cafe just around the corner from our accommodation, we set off with a one-day travel card and comfortable walking shoes to explore some of the lesser known areas of Venice’s 6 sestieri’s. During our day we:

Enjoyed a bird’s eye view of this unique city and surrounding islands from the bell tower on San Giorgio;

Drank coffee in Dorsoduro (home to the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, Gallerie dell'Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection); Had an Aperol spritz (with green olive of course!) and a plate of Chicchetti (Venetian tapas) for lunch in a very quiet piazza in the sunshine in Cannaregio before getting lost in the Jewish ghetto;

Wandered around the glass shops in Murano (the travelcard includes the islands). It was time to catch the water bus back to Castello, however, we decided to take the long way ‘home’, ending with a fabulous journey (at dusk) down the twinkling Grand Canale, under the famous Rialto and Accademia bridges and past Piazza San Marco and the Doge’s Palace before arriving back at our vaporetto stop on the lagoon front. One of the beautiful pink buildings I picked out just happened to be the Ca' Sagredo award winning boutique hotel with just 43 rooms and the acclaimed L’Alcova Restaurant - which I was visiting the next day! A fifteenth century palace, to stay at Ca’Sagredo you would feel like Renaissance royalty, surrounded by luxurious trappings like ornate frescoes, marble statues, rich fabrics and gilt mirrors.

Venice is all about the food and we enjoyed four wonderful evening meals in the Castello district (homemade pasta, pizza and of course some delicious fresh fish dishes).

Castello and the Arsenale, both quieter and more residential areas away from the crowded tourist areas (and tourist menus), provide a wonderful maze of tiny canals and bridges - but don’t worry about getting lost - there will always be a fabulous osteria, trattoria or corner bar around every corner and you will eventually find your way back!

I wrote this diary whilst sitting outside a fabulous little cafe on Campo S. Maria Nova, watching the world go by - some by gondola, others with confused expressions looking at up-side down maps – but mostly surrounded by locals who all seem to know each other. As we didn’t step foot inside a museum, church or art gallery during our stay, I fear another visit (this time with a museum pass) is required and if in the warmer months I shall stop by the Ca' Sagredo and sip a cocktail from their rooftop bar (overlooking the Grande Canal)!