Marrakech & the High Atlas Mountains
I have written my journal in two parts - 'Marrakech & the Mountains' and 'Morocco – the Atlantic Coast'. We arrived in Marrakech on a late flight and were welcomed to Riad Dar Azure by Samira with the most delicious three course traditional Moroccan meal for our arrival. We spent four nights staying in a quiet street within the Kasbah walls, close to the Royal Palace and a short walk from the square and souks. Dar Azure is a charming house built around an attractive courtyard where we ate breakfast, traditionally decorated with colourful mosaics, a fountain and wall hangings. With the added bonus of a private rooftop terrace with cushions and sun loungers it was a perfect retreat for relaxing in the sun or chilling out after a busy day in the souks. We were left to come and go as we pleased - it was home from home for those few days!
The myriad of tiny alleyways and busy streets of the Medina are best explored on foot. It is easy to get lost but there is always someone willing to guide you back to the main square for a dirham or two! We booked a walking tour on our first morning to get our bearings and learn a little about the city and its interesting history. The locals are very easy going and friendly. We learnt a few Arabic words and phrases (which they loved) and got by with our school book French. We felt safe and were only spooked at times by the number of mopeds and horse and carts whizzing past!
Visiting Djemaa el Fna square at night was like going back in time – here we found a maze of food stalls selling local street food, fortune tellers, fire eaters, dancers, snake charmers - it really felt like we were in an Indiana Jones movie!
Easting out was fun too. One evening we ate just off the main Square at Chez Chegrouni. Excellent value for money and delicious tagine, with a view! Close to our Riad was Café Clock, recently opened and serving food on the terrace overlooking the rooftops. We had the most delicious mint lemonade and camel burgers, and the cappuccinos were pretty good too.
While my husband spent a day on a mountain bike tour in the Anougal Valley, the children and I took the complimentary mini-bus out to the Oasiria Water Park, just 10 minutes from the Medina. It had only just opened for the season and was strangely quiet and the water extremely cold (I didn’t go in) however, it was a lovely place to chill out away from the hustle and bustle!
The following day we took a horse drawn carriage out to Marjorelle gardens and spent the afternoon exploring the Souks, finding some interesting gifts and souvenirs to bring home.
We left Marrakech on a very rainy day and in just 50 minutes found ourselves in the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains. It was cold and wet when we arrived at Kasbah Bab Ourika however we received a very warm welcome with homemade mint tea and cakes and log fires burning in every room – including our bedrooms!
The Kasbah is a small boutique hotel perched on a hillside and we were completely blown away by the most incredible views of the Ourika Valley - particularly from the children’s bedroom window! Snow-capped mountain peaks, lush valleys and a red earth landscape provide the setting along with beautifully designed terraces and gardens including their own vegetable garden. The children managed to swim in the outdoor pool however it was very cold – not surprising at this time of year!
Trekking is popular from the Kasbah and guides and picnics can be provided. Gracie and I took a camel ride through the local villages whilst the boys hired a guide and mountain bikes and enjoyed a fantastic downhill ride back to the hotel.
We ate in the Kasbah each evening after pre-dinner drinks in one of the bars or snugs. The three course set menus were freshly cooked, varied and delicious. There was a ‘cinema’ room where we could watch a movie with the children or play cards or chess. Lunch could be taken on the terrace and was freshly prepared offering a different menu daily.
After three wonderful nights said goodbye to Bab Ourika and headed to the coast.