Morocco – the Atlantic Coast

After four nights in Marrakech and three nights in the Atlas Mountains (see my journal entitled Marrakech & the High Atlas Mountains) our Moroccan adventure continued with a scenic three hour drive down to the Atlantic coast where we spent five nights in the small village of Sidi Kaouki. The journey was made all the more interesting by our driver who gave us an interesting lesson in Moroccan history and politics and the way of life. Very laid back and low key, with its long stretch of sandy beach, Sidi Kaouki is popular with water sports enthusiasts and is a great spot for getting away from the hustle and bustle.

Just a short walk from the beach and the village square are the wonderful Rebali Riads. We had our own two bedroomed Riad sharing a communal pool with two other Riads (a further three larger riads have their own private pools) along with a hammam, tennis court and table tennis table.

Muhammad and his charming team of staff took very good care of us. Breakfast was included and was served in our Riad or outside on the terrace each morning. We also booked dinner on two of our evenings which again is served in our Riad. Another evening we ate at Le Kaouki and had a grilled fish supper and on another, had burgers at the Surf Club watching the sunset over the Ocean. There are a few little ‘tavernas’ in the village square serving tagines, fish, burgers & salads and all reasonably priced. Chez Momo served an excellent chicken ‘Pastilla’.

Although it really is no more than a village, there was still plenty to do. From camel trekking and horse rides on the beach, to walks to Berber villages and visits to Ergan farms. Playing tennis and table tennis at the Riads and even star gazing from your private rooftop terrace! We highly recommend the 25 minute walk along the beach to Abdul’s café – where we sat on cushioned stone benches and enjoyed the most amazing calamari and fries freshly prepared in the simplest of kitchens (you can take a camel there if you prefer!)

Sadly there wasn’t enough wind (very unusual) for Geoff to wind surf or kite surf however he and the children did hire surf boards and spent a full afternoon on the beach and riding the surf!

We spent an enjoyable afternoon in Essaouira (despite the sea fog), just a 20 minute taxi ride from the Riads, with fortified walls, crashing waves, fishing port, white-washed crumbling walls and small vibrant Medina. Before heading back to our Riad we braved the fish market for an early fish supper. Choose your own fish and the chips arrive by bicycle!

It was so relaxing staying at Rebali and in Sidi Kaouki – just watching the funny little goats in the pens next door, listening to the donkeys braying to each other and seeing camels wandering by whilst listening to the surf rolling in from our rooftop terrace. It all provided quite a different experience and one that I would thoroughly recommend after a busy few days in Marrakech or for anyone wanting to get away from it all!