28 July 2022

In May 2022 I had the opportunity to spend a day in the township of Khayelitsha, just outside Cape Town. The name is Xhosa for 'New Home'. It is reputed to be the largest and fastest-growing township in South Africa. Khayelitsha is located on the Cape flats. A small group of travel agents was being shown around by Juma Mkwela from Juma Art Tours and I have to admit that a number of pre-conceived ideas about townships and township life went out the window that day. The general perception of townships in Europe is probably one of bleak shacks, poverty and lack of education but we were soon to learn that township life is not exactly like the perceptions the tourists tend to have. Khayelitsha is not 'just' a township, this is a city in itself! With close to 4 million inhabitants, everything needed for daily life is there, from kindergarten, primary school and secondary education (52 schools in total), through clinics and a hospital to shops. The township has a very young population, with only 7% over 50 years of age. Although many residents still live in 'informal dwellings', there are brick 2-bedroom houses in the township and also a small but growing middle class population. The township has a good transport infrastructure and the MyCiti bus system, Golden Arrow bus and various trains serve the location on a regular basis and no fewer than 6 train stations. There are three provincial government clinics, numerous municipal clinics and a 300-bed district hospital. One of the greatest surprises was the Spade, a boutique hotel and spa, with a small swimming pool, a treatment room for spa treatments and a gym. All rooms are tastefully furnished, and the premises are adorned with modern art. The restaurant serves delicious meals, which we were treated to as well, and the service was impeccable. The owner, Annette Skaap, has turned this into a little gem that deserves to be more widely known and appreciated. The individual homes, whilst small and largely out of corrugated iron, are painted with art to make the entire place a friendlier looking environment and there are opportunities for social tourism as volunteers in numerous projects around Khayelitsha, like community gardening, which our group took part in, or the painting of more buildings to give the place a lighter and friendlier feel. After lunch and a look around the hotel, we were treated to a performance by the gospel choir Isibane-se-Afrika. They sell some hand-made curios in their small shop to support the choir and are only too happy to treat visitors to a performance of song and dance. They show huge enthusiasm and some of our group had an opportunity to join in the celebration of music and dance. A very interesting day, which added much to our education.

16 June 2022

During a recent educational to beautiful Cape Town, we were treated to an experience of a different kind: A journey from the V&A Waterfront up Chapman's Peak in a vintage sidecar. Owner Tim founded the company in 2005 and his 7-year-old rescue dog Brody (the company mascot) often accompanies him in his own little seat in the tandem sidecar bucket, complete with bandana and goggles. The fleet of 35 sidecars are decommissioned military bikes originally used by the Peoples Liberation Army of China between the early 1950's and mid-1970's. They are known as cj750's and are based on the old German BMW R71 used extensively during from World War II. All sidecars have been fully refurbished & modified to suit South African Road traffic requirements. Available are: conventional sidecars (Driver plus 2 passengers, one on pillion seat behind driver plus 1 seated in the sidecar) as well as tandem sidecars (Driver plus 3 passengers, one on pillion seat behind driver plus 2 passengers in the tandem sidecar bucket). Vintage sidecars offer a range of options from 2-hour short drives to half-day and full-day tours to different destinations. We had an absolute blast, the drivers picked us up from the lunch venue, sorted us out with retro leather jackets, bandanas, goggles and crash helmets and gave us the option to either sit in the sidecar or ride pillion. I chose the sidecar because I wanted to take photographs. Our drivers weaved through traffic with ease, through narrow one-way streets and along the coast with spectacular views and I was so glad that I had chosen the sidecar and was able to take plenty of pictures. We had two photo-stops at beauty spots along the coast and all too soon we were driven back to our hotel for the evening programme. It was an excursion that we will not forget anytime soon, and if I get the chance, I will most certainly book another ride in a vintage sidecar when I am in Cape Town in future.

28 July 2022

On a recent educational with Cape Town Tourism, we were eased into the programme with a walking tour around Woodstock, a suburb of the city. On display were various murals, all painted by the locals to pretty-up their otherwise somewhat bleak-looking environment. A lot of the art was skilfully painted, and we were guided around the area by one of the artists, Juma Mkwela. Juma was born in Malawi, raised in Zimbabwe and now lives in Khayelitsha. He is an artist with a bright smile and a passion for his various communities. After fleeing political, social and economic turmoil, he moved to South Africa in hopes of a better future. While in South Africa, Juma recognized that many xenophobic actions stem from a lack of education and understanding of other cultures. Combining his love for art and craft, along with his new desire to educate, Juma set out to share his own interests by teaching the community through art leadership and development programs. He believes in the potential and the positive impact that street art can have in the township communities, such as his own home in Khayelitsha. Street art allows artists to tell their story to a larger audience in a more permanent space. In addition, street art creates a beautiful space within the communities that makes residents eager to get their spaces painted as well. Juma set up his own company: Juma Art Tours, an organisation that offers various immersive experiences in townships and areas often overlooked by tourists with the aim to create a better understanding of the area visited for those who visit. Woodstock also boasts a number of artisan shops and an art gallery so there is plenty to see and do. After our art tour, we were treated to an altogether different experience; craft gin tasting. Needless to say, all participants left the venue in high spirits after an enjoyable hour of teambuilding and gin tasting. Juma Art Tours can customise various tours for those interested in visiting a less well-known area of Cape Town.

07 June 2019

During this year's USA MegaFam, organized by Brand USA to showcase the USA to travel agents from the UK, I visited Arizona. Landing in Phoenix, we were welcomed by our Scottsdale hosts who took us to our accommodation for the next two nights, the luxurious Phoenician in Scottsdale. The five Diamond Phoenician was opened in 1988 and has been completely renovated. The main lobby, Thirsty Camel Lounge offers afternoon tea and drinks from the bar in a relaxed setting. The property boasts several restaurants, shops and a pool complex with reserved seating. In spring 2018, the property introduced the rooftop bar, the three-storey Spa and a state-of-the-art fitness centre. An 18-hole golf course completes the offering. The next day, we had a jam-packed programme, starting early with an Apache Trail tour that took us to the Superstition Mountain Wilderness and subsequently, via Tortilla Flat and Canyon Lake, to the Goldfield Ghost Town. The Sonoran Desert is dry and arid but of a particular beauty. The Apache Trail was Arizona’s first designated ‘Historic Highway’ and is also considered a scenic byway. The original Apache Trail was a footpath through the Superstition Mountains and is now one of the most scenic drives through the Sonoran Desert. When the temperatures got too high to walk around in the desert, we were taken to the Saguaro hotel in Scottsdale, where we had the opportunity to briefly cool down with a yoga class on a paddleboard in the pool, followed by a leisurely lunch. The Saguaro Scottsdale was opened in November 2011 and is inspired by the contemporary architecture of the Arizona Desert. The property is designed around the colour and light of the surrounding landscape. After lunch, we visited the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (SMoCA) which features modern and contemporary art, architecture and design from around the globe. SMoCA presents a wide variety of changing exhibitions, educational programmes and special events for families and adults. Following the Museum visit, we were taken to the Desert Botanical Garden for a behind-the-scenes tour that allowed us to discover a small portion of the over 50’000 desert plants that nestle amid the red rocks at the garden. Five thematic trails offer the visitor an opportunity to explore the beauty of the Sonoran Desert plant life, from towering cacti and alluring succulents to wildflowers and trees. The gardens offer specialised tours, seasonal exhibits, concerts and family activities and a visit is warmly recommended during a trip to Phoenix and Scottsdale. We had been told that our farewell dinner would be at a surprise location and we were not disappointed. A one-hour drive took us from the hotel into the Sonoran Desert where we dined under the stars. We arrived just as the sun was about to set and, enjoying a prickly pear cocktail, we watched the sun go down and the scorching day turn into a balmy evening. After enjoying a long, but relaxing evening in the desert and a beautiful dinner, we returned to our rooms to pack up and get ready for our departure the next day. Our last day started with breakfast in the hotel’s garden. Many hotel guests around the world will have experience the annoyance of small birds that always try to scavenge on crumbs from patron’s plates if they get a chance. The Phoenician has found the solution; they hire a falconer and his falcon to guard the guest’s breakfast. The pair stand at a respectful distance from the guests, but it is enough to let the smaller birds know that they had better stay away from the food, unless they want to turn into a snack themselves. Every once in a while, the falconer walks around with his hooded falcon, so that all smaller birds can see that their nemesis is still there. A great idea. Our last stop before the airport was a brief shopping opportunity at Scottsdale Fashion Square, just a stone’s throw away from the airport. Before we knew it, our amazing journey through 4 states of the USA came to an end with our flight back to London and many new impressions to cherish. The trip will live long in the memory.

03 June 2019

During this year's USA MegaFam, organized by Brand USA to showcase the USA to travel agents from the UK, I visited Wyoming. The 10th largest and least populous state of the US is largely covered by mountains and rangeland and is, amongst others, known for its agricultural produce like beef. Beef we saw aplenty, in the form of Bison at the Terry Bison Ranch, where cute little baby Bison strutted their stuff, one as young as 2 hours old. Seeing that Wyoming is cattle country, it comes as no surprise that there is a huge number of steakhouses in the state, where succulent steaks, ribs and other meat dishes are served. On our visit to the capital Cheyenne, we were treated to a Railway Trolley Tour, which gave us a great overview of the historic buildings of Cheyenne. We had a peek at the Frontier Days Old West Museum and then headed on to the Botanic Gardens where we saw a variety of animals and plants. The city has a lot to offer in terms of sightseeing opportunities and is well worth a visit, aim to spend a few days to take it all in. For those who like cocktails, mocktails or any other drink, a visit to the Paramount Ballroom is a must. Be prepared to show ID though, there are no alcoholic drinks served in Wyoming to under 21’s and this is strictly enforced. We enjoyed a fantastic dinner at the Bunkhouse Bar, which has live music and where couples still take to the floor for a dance or two, thoroughly enjoying themselves. On Mother’s Day, we were treated to a brunch as we’d never seen before at Terry Bison Ranch, what a variety of food and drink! The meal was followed by a Bison Train Tour, which allowed closer contact with and feeding of the animals and produced some lovely shots of baby Bison. Terry Bison Ranch runs their hugely popular train tours with accessible cars every day of the year except Christmas Day on a standard gauge rail. The train briefly crosses into Colorado during the tour as part of the land is on the other side of the border. The first unit of these train locomotives went into operation in 2004 and currently the Ranch has 6 locomotives and a new enclosed 90-passenger car. After we departed the Ranch, which also has several other animals on display for guests, varying from alpaca to camels and from chicken to horses of which some had foals, we were shown to the Cheyenne Ice and Events Centre for a spin on the Bumper Cars. The Bumper Cars were a hit with all the group, and we had a great time. In the afternoon, we were treated to a wine and tea reception at the historic Nagle Warren Mansion which is a luxury B&B in a restored Victorian home dating back to 1888, in historic downtown Cheyenne, one of the few remaining homes from that era when Cheyenne was the richest city of its size in the world. The home is steeped in history and the current owner Jim Osterfoss will be happy to share details of its origins and the family history of the original owners with visitors and guests. The B&B has 12 en-suite rooms, 6 located in the main house and 6 located in the former Carriage House, which is now attached to the main house, of which one is accessible. On the third floor of the building, the tower room and snug are available as a sitting room for guests with a lovely view of downtown Cheyenne and on the garden level the property offers a gym as well as the Parlour, the Sitting room, the Dining room and the Library as well as three conference rooms. The grounds include a hot tub room, patio, fountain, and gardens. The Moorish style tile of the vestibule floor and the original Moroccan chandelier in the entry hall, as well as carved leather ceilings, original stained glass and crystal windows, cherry panelling in the foyer, parquet floors throughout the first floor, two cast brass fireplaces with mirrors to the ceilings, a marble fireplace and impressive oak woodwork in the dining room, library and sitting room are some of the details worthy of particular note. Add to that the bronze medallions set in the front doors and newel posts, elaborate detail on door knobs and hinges, oak galleries over the dining room windows, and two large paintings in the parlour and on entering the property you feel as if you were stepping back in time. This property is warmly recommended for a stay in Cheyenne. The afternoon tea is served on Friday and Saturday afternoon between 2 and 4 pm and booking is essential.

03 June 2019

During this year's USA MegaFam, organized by Brand USA to showcase the USA to travel agents from the UK, I visited the Black Hills of South Dakota. Apart from impressive scenery, we saw extraordinary craftsmanship when we visited our first stop, the Crazy Horse Memorial. The memorial to Lakota leader Crazy Horse is a work in progress, the 87½ foot tall face of the great leader was completed in 1998 but the project, that was begun in 1948, is still ongoing. The final statue will be 641 feet long and 563 feet high. The next phase of progress on the Mountain includes carving Crazy Horse's left Hand, left Forearm, right Shoulder, Hairline, and part of the Horse’s Mane and Head in 10-15 years. In addition to the sculpture itself, Crazy Horse Memorial seeks to provide an educational and cultural programme to visitors about the Native American people. The Indian Museum of North America and the Native American Educational and Cultural Center are worth a visit. The story behind the Memorial is an interesting one: Korczak Ziolkowski, a noted New England sculptor, first came to the Black Hills in 1939 to help on Mount Rushmore. That year, he also won first prize for his Carrara marble portrait, “PADEREWSKI, Study of an Immortal,” at the New York World’s Fair. Chief Standing Bear read news reports of Korczak’s achievements and invited him to create a mountainous tribute to the North American Indians. In 1947, Ziolkowski returned to South Dakota to start work on the Crazy Horse Memorial. The first blast on the mountain was in 1948, attended by five survivors of the Battle of Little Bighorn. To this day, this is very much a family business, with 4 of Ziolkowski’s children and 3 of his grandchildren still working on the Mountain. After a lunch and a browse through the impressive gift shop, we continued our journey through South Dakota to Custer State Park. Custer State Park encompasses 71’000 acres in the Black Hills of Dakota and is home to an abundance of Wildlife. The park offers a variety of activities from camping and swimming through biking, canoeing and birdwatching to hiking, horseback riding and rock climbing. We embarked on a Buffalo Jeep Safari in the hope that we would be able to spot some of the around 1’300 Bison that wander the park. We were not disappointed. Apart from Bison, we saw Pronghorn, a type of antelope, mountain goats and donkeys, beautiful birds and a lot of stunning scenery. We spent a very enjoyable 2 hours in the park and the time flew in. But that was not everything yet, another iconic Memorial awaited – Mount Rushmore. The massive sculpture depicting George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln, surrounded by the beauty of the Black Hills of South Dakota, tell the story of the birth, growth, development and preservation of this country. It was completed in 1941 and hosts around three million visitors a year with the busiest months being June, July and August. Today it is a symbol of freedom and hope for people from all cultures and backgrounds. The purpose of the Memorial is to communicate the founding, expansion, preservation, and unification of the United States. The reason these four Presidents were chosen for the Memorial is that, in the view of the sculptor Gutzon Borglum, these four represented the most important events in the history of the USA. George Washington led the colonists in the American Revolutionary War to win independence from Great Britain. He was the father of the new country and laid the foundation of American democracy. For that reason, he is considered the most important of the four and is the most prominent feature on the mountain. Thomas Jefferson was the primary author of the Declaration of Independence, and also purchased the Louisiana Territory from France in 1803, doubling the size of the country at the time, and adding all or part of fifteen present-day states. He represents the growth of the USA. Theodore Roosevelt was instrumental in negotiating the construction of the Panama Canal, linking the East and the West. He ended large corporate monopolies and ensured the rights of the common working man. He represents the development of the United States. Abraham Lincoln held the country together during its greatest trial, the Civil War. He represents the preservation of the United States. On our next day in South Dakota, we visited the Badlands National Park, a striking geological wonder featuring a maze of buttes, canyons and gullies formed by millions of years of erosion. The deposits contain one of the world’s richest fossil beds. The park’s 244,000 acres protect an expanse of mixed-grass prairie where bison, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, and black-footed ferrets live today. The striking scenery of the rugged spires and deep canyons may draw your attention, and the lens of your camera, first. But as you spend more time in this place, the prairie comes alive. Stay awhile and get to know the prairie plants and animals and appreciate the peace and quiet.