Exploring the Yorkshire Dales

Sandra Robinson on 18 September 2020
2020 had scuppered any plans to travel abroad, but feeling the need to see a different part of the UK, we decided to rent a cottage and discover the scenic delights of the Yorkshire Dales. Fortunately we were extremely lucky with the weather, as this really is an area where it's needed. We stayed just south of Settle, on the Lancashire/Yorkshire border, in a beautiful quiet spot, but only about 15mins drive to the National Park.

On our first day we headed to Ingleton, to do a circular walk taking about 3.5hrs discovering a number of pretty waterfalls, dry stone walled landscapes, and rolling green vistas. Just about the right level of difficulty for us, as we aren't serious walkers, but plenty of stops along the way to enjoy the views. We continued past the Ribble Head Viaduct, watching numerous hikers on their 3 Peaks Challenge, and on up to Hawes, a pretty village in Wensleydale, home of the cheese. The place was busy with day trippers and walkers. From there we continued north to have a quick drink at the highest pub in the UK, the Tan Hill Inn. It's on the Pennine Way, so very popular with campers, hikers and people passing through.

The following day we first visited the Hardraw Force, which is the largest single drop fall in England. It was tucked away behind the Green Dragon Inn, just outside Hawes. It wasn't free to see it, and thought it was a bit over priced. We then continued back to Hawes and tried to visit the Wensleydale Creamery, but due to Covid 19 the queue was too long to get in. So after another wander around Hawes we continued along Wensleydale to Aysgarth, where there are some lovely waterfalls. There are 3 areas to see, with very pretty views, and definitely worth a visit, and it only cost to park the car. Robin Hood Prince of Thieves was filmed there. From Aysgarth we continued to Castle Bolton to see the very impressive Bolton Castle. Set in the middle of more pretty countryside, Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned there, but lived in relative comfort. Another place worth visiting.

So that was the area to the north of where we were staying covered, so we decided to head east the next day. Set deep in the Dales, my favourite destination of the trip was next, to Malham Cove. With glorious weather, we set off on foot from Malham village along the Pennine Way to Janet's Foss, a pretty waterfall set in a wooded glade, with babbling streams filled with iron rich water. It was so peaceful there. We continued on the trail to Gordale Scar, a massive limestone ravine. You can climb up over the top. We didn't but continued along the Pennine Way towards Malham Cove. The scenery all along the route was spectacular, easy to walk and plenty of places to stop and take in the views.

We eventually arrived at the top of Malham Cove, which is a huge curving amphitheatre made from limestone. On the top is a limestone pavement, which was fun to clamber over, giving great views down the 70m drop below to the village in the far distance. I'm glad we walked the route in the order we did because the steps up to the top of Malham Cove, which we descended, were steep and fairly slippery, so ascending would have been harder.

The following day we drove further east again, through the pretty village of Grassington to just outside Ripon, and the Heritage and NT site of Fountains Abbey. Another very impressive ruin, set in lovely grounds within Studley Water Gardens. We spent a few hours wandering around, taking in the views, about 75 mins from where we were staying. Had we time, we would have continued into Ripon to explore a bit, but instead we returned via NT Brimham Rocks, which are set high on a hill, about 8mls from Harrogate with some weird rock formations, sculpted over the centuries by wind, ice and rain. Again more fantastic views to be seen.

Unfortunately the weather deteriorated the following day so we headed into Harrogate to explore and took a free walking tour of the town. Harrogate has some fine buildings and of course is popular to visit the Turkish Baths, or take a spa treatment. Betty's Tea Rooms were as popular as ever. The town boasts some pretty well kept gardens which would have been lovely to explore had the weather been kind.

On our final day we decided to head back north on a circular drive and cover Dentdale. We drove along a remote hillside road wide enough for one car, through farm gates and eventually arrived in the village of Dent. We felt we had stepped back in time. The remote village has narrow cobbled streets and we discovered was very popular with hikers. Talking to the owner of the local cafe, we discovered he knew one of my colleagues. What a small world!

We loved the Yorkshire Dales, and easily filled a week. Had we more time, we could have driven to neighbouring Lake District, only about 40miles away, taken a trip on the Settle to Carlisle train, or visited Skipton and Bolton Abbey. We have some wonderful areas of Great Britain and feel this is one of many we shall explore further.