Medieval Mystery, Mountains and Mediterranean

For our late summer holiday this year, we decided we wanted to explore an area that was less than two hours from home, but offered spectacular scenery, lovely beaches and amazing culinary experiences – so where better than the south-west corner of France? From mountains to the Med, the Occitanie region of France is less visited than many others, but is full of history, legend, bustling towns and cities, vineyards, hidden valleys and sandy beaches.

There are a variety of arrival points, with international airports at Toulouse, Montpellier and Carcassonne to name a few, as well as the option to arrive by ferry at Santander and travel over the border from Spain, and we had very easy flights from Bristol to Toulouse

We would have liked to have explored more, but after a one-night stop in the ‘pink city’ of Toulouse, we drove off for a few nights in the Pyrenees. Initially, trying to understand French road-signs and remembering to drive on the right side of the road in a busy city was a bit of a trial, but we got through okay, and driving around became very comfortable.

Heading towards the rising hills gave us an opportunity to sample the glorious fresh mountain air on the French-Spanish border. Basing ourselves near Foix, it really feels like a far distant corner of France, with a mixture of languages and culture, especially if you head high in to the mountains and pop in to Andorra as we did.

Visiting the less touristy areas, such as up in the mountains, we soon learnt we had to really dig deep into our memories of “O Level” French studies (Google it kids!) Very little English is spoken, but once our confidence returned, we did manage to get ourselves understood. As it turns out, in the more touristy areas this became less of an issue, but it is always good to at least try and speak a little of the local language, even if you don’t understand the replies.

After our relaxing few days in the mountains we set off towards the Mediterranean. On the way, we had an interesting little detour up and up a long, windy road to the tiny village of Rennes-le-Chateau. Apart from the stunning hilltop views towards the Pyrenees, the village is shrouded in mystery. In the 1800’s the parish priest, Berenger Sauniere, suddenly started flaunting a vast wealth around, refurbishing his church and home. Where did he get the money from though? Was it found treasure leading all the way back to the theory that Jesus had stayed here, stories associated with The Da Vinci Code and the Holy Grail? Or was it a little bit of clever marketing to help promote a local hotel? Whatever the answer, it is well worth a detour, with a fascinating museum

Rennes-le-Chateau lies at the heart of Cathar country in the Languedoc region, and there are many interesting historic towns and villages to visit. Everywhere we went, everyone seemed to be setting up for, or were in the midst of, festivals and celebrations. They really do seem to enjoy this time of year. Perhaps it’s the thought of getting in the new harvest of grapes for the delicious local wines. All very drinkable. And nothing beats stopping off for a very filling Prix Fixe lunch in a shaded brasserie, for delicious local dishes, washed down with a refreshing glass of local Vin Rose.

Our meandering drive (okay we got lost a few times) continued past endless vineyards and pretty villages, eventually dropping us at the coast, at the lovely town of Meze, perched on the banks of an oyster-filled lagoon near Setes, with glorious stretches of golden sand beaches, amazing food and fresh mussels served in all manner of inventive, and tasty, ways. This is the understated and, consequently, less expensive part of the French Mediterranean. With plenty of restaurants and cafes, it was a great little place to relax and unwind for a few days, before heading off to the real jewel in the crown of the region– Carcassonne

Nothing prepares you for the sight of this medieval town and castle as you approach and see the castle for the first time, rising majestically out of the landscape. It looks like something Walt Disney would have constructed, but it’s a real, living, breathing town.

Staying just below the ramparts was a great idea, as it was easy to climb up to the ramparts, which is great to do at sunrise and sunset, or to dive in to the lovely collection of cafes, restaurants and shops, both in the old town and over the Vieux Bridge in the modern new town, with even more eating and shopping options. Although it is an historic site, the main gates never close, so you can wander in any time. There is an entrance fee for the main castle and museum, but it is great value and very informative. As you clamber around the ramparts you can feel the atmosphere and history oozing out of the high walls.

If you only had a few days to spare to visit this area, then Carcassonne would be my recommendation for a base. From here it’s easy to drive out to visit the vineyards, the little villages surrounding dotted around the region, or take a boat ride up the Canal Du Midi, a real masterpiece of transport engineering

So, if you have already spent time in Paris, or played around on the Cote d’Azur or Brittany, and wanted to take some time in a different part of France, then I can highly recommend heading down to the south-west of France. There are a multitude of flights available, all year round, offered by EasyJet and Ryanair, so there are great opportunities to grab a cheap air-fare and I will happily put together a travel plan to see some amazing scenery and historic sites, not to mention enjoy some incredible food and wines. Just get in touch now!