Sri Lanka - Two weeks of culture, golden beaches, stunning countryside and delicious food
Sri Lanka is a jewel shaped island, perched in the Indian Ocean, just off the south-east coast of India, a country from which it takes a lot of influence. Whilst it doesn’t have quite the “organised chaos” of parts of India, there is certainly that strangely enjoyable feeling of not really knowing what’s going on around you – however, as always with Asian countries, it just seems to work.
In our two weeks, we experienced the busy cities of Colombo, Kandy and Galle, but more importantly, got to see some amazingly verdant countryside, awe-inspiring mountains and stunningly beautiful beaches that Sri Lanka offers. Couple that with the friendly people, delicious food and abundant wildlife, it really is a destination that offers everything.
To get there, you can fly direct with Sri Lankan Airlines, or have a stop off flight with one of the middle Eastern airlines. We flew with Qatar Airways, via a break in Doha, and they were very comfortable, and reasonably priced flights.
You do have to obtain a visa, either online before you travel, or you can obtain one on arrival, but it’s a painless procedure. Once out of the airport, we had an instant reminder of why we love travelling in Asia. The heat for starters, which is a bit of a shock when arriving in January from the UK, the smells of the food, the tuk-tuk drivers pestering for your business, and temples. Lots of temples.
We spent our first night at the beachside town of Negombo, and immediately realised that food and drink here is very cheap – and very delicious. We also sensed what a melting pot of different cultures make up this country. From Tamils who’ve migrated from India and the north of the country to the dominant Buddhists, and the large Christian population, temples, mosques and western churches sit side by side.
You are made aware that things have not always been peaceful in Sri Lanka, and there are still a few ongoing economic, cultural, and political issues, but we did not feel this affected our experience. The country also suffered a massive economic downturn during and after the Pandemic and is only now beginning to rise up again. They really need the tourists to return, and it did feel there was a very progressive and positive atmosphere in the air to make this happen.
The people are so friendly and want you to feel the pride they have in their country. We were there for their annual Independence Day celebrations (we always get a reminder of some of our own country’s actions in the past), and there were Sri Lankan flags on show everywhere. And it seems a fair bit of partying done in celebration.
Our 9-day tour of the main sights of the country was a sort of clockwise tour finishing in Colombo. We started in Sigiriya, with its staggering rocky outcrop, Lion Rock, upon which a fortress once stood. It was very busy there, so we recommend getting there early, and take a sturdy pair of shoes. The climb to the top from the terraced gardens and lakes takes around 45 minutes but is well worth it. You get incredible 360-degree views over the surrounding jungle countryside, encounter plenty of monkeys, and you can even dip your toes in the swimming pools built by the former king.
Sigiriya is also a good base to take in the Minneriya National Park, where we took a 3-hour wildlife safari, seeing eagles, peacocks and quite a few elephants in their natural habitat. To be honest, it’s a very bumpy ride, so 3 hours is about enough. We experienced a similar wildlife tour later in Udawalale, and there are similar opportunities in the more popular Yala National Park. Either way, you must include at least one wildlife tour at some point during your holiday.
After a night in Kandy we took, what for me was the highlight of our holiday, the train journey from Kandy to Ella, rightly regarded as one of the most scenic train journeys in the world. We travelled in the inexpensive First-Class carriage, with reserved, very comfy seats. At the end of the carriages the doors are left open, and tourists queue up to have their photos taken with their feet dangling over the footboard as the lush green tea fields and misty mountains flowed by.
We also loved the snack sellers moving constantly up and down the carriages, shouting ‘wade wade’ and providing us with delicious samosas, dhal and warm chai. It really is a must-do experience.
At the end of the 7-hour journey, we stayed in Ella for 2 nights, and it’s a really lovely town to stay in. It is growing fast, and is far from the sleepy village it once was, but the surrounding mountains and hills offer an abundance of hiking opportunities, such as Little Adam’s Peak, with views of stunning waterfalls, and even a 500-metre zip-wire for the braver ones
Ella offers some lovely hotels, from simple backpackers to top of the range 4* and 5* properties, and there are some great cafes and restaurants to enjoy once your busy day is over. Take a walk to the iconic Nine Arch Bridge, an impressive jungle structure 25 meters high and 91 meters long. We were there on a very busy holiday weekend, and the town buzzed with Sri Lankans and international visitors alike.
After a quick visit to the famous Galle Fort, we finished our trip with some beach time; 4 days relaxing on the fine, golden sands of Bentota. We had a lovely stay in the Thaala Beach Resort, sunbathing and eating yet more delicious curries, hoppers, fresh fish and noodle dishes, accompanied by wonderful chutneys and sambols . You can even sneak in an Italian or burger meal if the spicy stuff gets too much for you.
To sum up, Sri Lanka is at the same time exciting, chaotic, beautiful, friendly, historic, troubled, and proud. You must go!