22 October 2024

The almost-full moon rises overhead as ‘tamata’, small silver engraved plaques, chime their wishes against the rough whitewashed wall surrounding an ancient olive tree, branches swaying. Crossing the threshold, I can hear Eric Clapton's Lay Down Sally in vinyl on the turntable and view Golden Age Greek cinema projected directly onto an inner wall; every detail here has been thought through at 15-suite Nomad Mykonos to create an intimate and relaxed environment. As a travel agent, I get opportunities to go on Fam Trips – Fam here is short for familiarisation, and these trips give us the chance to fully immerse ourselves in destinations and experience first-hand the very best hotels. I can then offer my customers specific advice and bespoke service, with exceptional touches and direct contacts. My aim is to make all of my clients feel like VIP guests from the minute they start their holiday. Last week, I was lucky enough to be invited by Mr & Mrs Smith, the global private members’ travel club, to view the luxury & boutique hotels that they have uncovered on that most uber of Greek islands, Mykonos, also known as 'Queen of the Cyclades'. Launched onto the international map when Jackie Onassis visited the neighbouring sacred island of Delos in 1960, Mykonos is now notorious for all-day partying and hedonism, but in the quieter months of September and October, you’ll find a more laid-back vibe and a spiritual, mellower pace. In keeping with the ethos of Mr & Mrs Smith properties, all 12 hotels on the itinerary provide a respite, or at least a bridge, to and from the beach bars and clubs. Each one has its own distinct style, the differences often coming down to the smallest details as well as the magical people we met. Almost all provided provided views of Delos, the cyan sea and the most mesmerising sunsets. At Bill & Coo Lounge & Suites, a contemporary and cool hotel with a resident DJ, the Athenian General Manager was a charming, old-school gentleman, who clearly cared deeply about his guests and his staff. Also, the BEST breakfast. At the bright and breezy Ambassador hotel overlooking Platos Gialos, with Nicol and Vaya we enjoyed exquisite food and learnt how smart, strong, and funny Greek women are. While at timeless Kalesma, on the site where, according to Greek myth, the god Apollo kept his horses, you will find a private Greek Orthodox chapel on site, a modern interpretation of a centuries-old tradition. Amyth Mykonos provides a peaceful crash pad for the fashion crowd above Mykonos town, a bar with a superlative curated cocktail list and the sleepy presence of its resident cat, Ziselle – this is a pet-friendly hangout. Branco is a stylish boutique hotel mere steps from the sea, perfect for a girls’ weekend, where beautiful waiters serve beautiful sushi to a backdrop of soul-stirring tunes. Deos is one of the newest properties on the island, so peaceful and incognito that there are hidden underground tunnels for staff to look after the needs of their guests without disturbing the zen vibe. And finally, beyond the window of my circular rooftop suite at Rocabella, the churning Aegean sea and skies are the purest shades of blue. The October Meltemi north wind cuts through the bold sunshine, turning the air crisp and transparent above the low whitewashed buildings sitting on barren soil. My advice is to visit Mykonos during the shoulder months, when the sea is warm, the produce is fresh and plentiful, clubs are still open, but without the crowds for a restorative break. Contrary to popular belief, this is an ideal destination for romance, whether on honeymoon or celebrating an anniversary. You can find peace beyond the parties, Greek hospitality will greet you everywhere you go, and with a Mr & Mrs Smith hotel you are guaranteed a stay that will make you feel relaxed, seductive and like an insider to an exclusive club. I am delighted to be able to offer Mr & Mrs Smith’s exclusive collection of international and UK properties to all of my clients.

02 May 2024

The cold rain hurled down gutters, palm trees waved energetically in the wind, and conical djellaba hoods were firmly up on Marrakshi heads while they ran errands through the maze of the Medina. This wasn’t what we had expected on arrival in Marrakesh, but the 6-year drought had finally broken, and it was a cause for celebration – reservoirs would soon refill and the primary agricultural industry would continue to thrive. Unfortunately for us, we were flying in after a long, grey and damp British winter, but it was difficult to feel resentful about the temporary lack of warmth and sunshine. Marrakesh, the most-visited of Morocco’s 4 Imperial cities, is truly a city of contrasts. Low-built - it is forbidden to build any higher than the minaret of the 12th century Koutoubia mosque - the fortified Medina is easily small enough to walk around. Even beyond the city walls, in l’Hivernage aka the French Quarter, the streets are broad, leafy and walkable. One moment, we are enjoying fragrant tagines and tooth-rottingly sweet tea with sparrows by our feet overlooking a damp Djemaa el Fna square; the next, we are sipping minty mojitos with the resident DJ at the rooftop bar of the new Nobu Hotel, enjoying stunning 360º views of the Atlas mountains and the desert beyond. I was travelling with my husband and my teenage daughter, and we chose to stay at the discreet, suite-only Jardins Secrets de l’Hivernage, in a quiet residential road, only a 15 minute walk from the city walls. Although we didn’t get to enjoy the swimming pool, this small hotel suited us well with its spacious rooms, 2 bathrooms per suite, very small guest-count and gracious staff. Luckily, rain didn’t stop play at the internationally cool rooftop Kabana restaurant for dinner. After 2 nights of the sensory onslaught of Marrakesh, sea air was calling so we took a 2.5 hour drive down to boho, hippy Essaouira on the Atlantic coast. Another fabled city – formerly known as Mogador, so-named by Portuguese colonisers - with a fascinating history off the back of the strong Alizée trade winds which also make it a mecca for kite-surfers. Our view from our suite at the Riad Mimouna was of the endlessly churning Atlantic beneath us, with saltwater spraying our 1st floor windows at high tide. Cool coffee-shops make the most of Morocco’s plentiful produce here to serve excellent brunches & chic art galleries line the pedestrian-only maze of streets that line the inside of the 18th-century seafront ramparts. Large multi-generational families ventured out in force from 6pm, shopping for the break of their Ramadan fast. Down by the harbour, business was brisk as usual with fisherman displaying that morning’s catch to be freshly bought and grilled for lunch. Our final stop was the Domaine de la Roseraie in the High Atlas Mountains, a vibrantly lush landscape with snow-tipped peaks, rust red soil and gentle, hospitable Berber people. Here, the air and the water are soul-refreshingly clean. Pomegranates, quince, peaches, plums, vines, almonds, barley, olive trees and carob trees are just some of the crops that we saw growing in the villages, as well as endless aromatic wild herbs - sage, peppermint, rosemary, thyme, wild garlic. On a serious note, this area was the epicentre of the earthquake which killed 3000 Moroccans only 8 months ago and which caused widespread destruction. Many local families, including that of our charming trek guide Sharif, already living as subsistence farmers, have spent the winter in tents. Their houses are being rebuilt, but it does take time. If you have been considering a visit to Morocco, my advice is to just do it, sooner rather than later.

17 February 2024

'NO PHOTOGRAPHY ALLOWED' we are firmly told, as I, and other fans from as far afield as Brisbane and Kyoto, climb aboard the luxury shuttle bus. Behind these gates hides top secret information worth billions of Euros, and once through the high-security portal, swarthy men in uniform red boiler suits displaying the famous prancing horse logo stalk the futuristic grounds. It could only be Italy - the designer stubble and mirrored sunglasses reflect the sharp-angled buildings of this Formula 1 HQ. The whiff of testosterone is palpable from behind the bus windows, and the charming (female) tour leader points out the enormous wind tunnel where aerodynamics are tested and the 'car parks' where Ferraris, in various stages of development and worth up to $3 million each, casually wait. How did I get here? My first experience of Travel Counsellors was as a customer. My son had just completed his A Levels and was taking a year off before university. I wanted to use this opportunity to plan a bonding mother-son trip; the stuff of memories. I had 2 rules: 1) to go somewhere that neither of us had been to before. 2) to keep to a very modest budget. I didn't want him to develop a taste for luxury quite yet! My son had never visited Italy, and I had only been to Rome. After investigation, the usual hotspots of Florence, Venice and Naples were prohibitively expensive; my son, however, was a huge fan of the Ferrari Formula 1 Team so I chose to focus our trip around a visit to their base just outside Bologna. My Travel Counsellor found us some well-timed low cost flights, a clean and central small hotel, and was able to advise on how best to visit the Ferrari factory and museums in Modena and Maranello by train. This is an easy day trip from Bologna, using the fantastic and cheap Italian rail system to get to Modena. At Modena train station, you are met by a Ferrari shuttle bus and even I, not a fan of Formula 1, got goose bumps in anticipation of the day ahead. Whilst you could spend a couple of days exploring Bologna's heritage - this is a vibrant university town with a rich cultural history - we chose to focus on gastronomy. Known as 'La Grassa' ('The Fat One'), this erudite town is all about its excellent cuisine. I was travelling with a bottomless pit (aka the stomach of a 19-year old young man), after all. We ate, and we ate a lot - from melt-in-your-mouth mortadella and cured meats, tortellini and pasta all' ragu, incredible game and fish, local cheeses, as well as seasonal fresh vegetables. The local produce is said to be of such high quality and variety due to the location of Emilia Romagna, sheltered on low land between the Alps and the Appenines, and near the coast. I'm also not ashamed to say that we visited the same gelateria, just by our hotel, 3 times over 48 hours. When in Italy... Back to Ferrari, there are two museums, one in Maranello where the focus is on the cars and where you can also visit the factory, and one in Modena which is where the legendary Enzo Ferrari was born and brought up. I would advise booking all tours in advance online, as well as the train travel and transfers. Once you have visited Maranello, the shuttle will take you back to the museum in Modena, then do wander the porticoed streets of this provincial town and try the glossy sweetness of the local Balsamic vinegar. At the end of the day, sitting outside a cafe in glorious autumn sunshine with a cold Moretti, my son and I confirmed that we were 100% happy with our little mother-son break. This was a fantastic Italian city jaunt and my son was bitten by the travel bug. He's in Australia as I type this, and I couldn't be happier for him. As for me, a new career was being launched.