09 May 2024

There's a great big world out there, just waiting to be discovered- so what's stopping you? Travelling alone? Don't let this be a hindrance to your travel dreams - I don't. In April, I was lucky enough to experience a 'solo' traveller experience to Sicily, BUT in a small group. Lots of people travel solo for various reasons; it doesn't have to mean that you're single. I am married but my husband has no desire to do the trips I want to do - so off I went on my first ESCORTED TOUR. We have been working with a company called 'Just You' for many a year now, and they have been operating for 25 years so have a wealth of experience in solo travel. I honestly think it's a brilliant way to combine both worlds, as you will always have your own room and space (with no dreaded single supplement), but can mingle with like-minded travellers too as and when you want; all with the added benefits of having a local expert guide (we would have been lost without her!) as well as a company host who accompanies the tours at all times, ensuring everything goes to plan. We flew into Catania and made our way northwards to our first hotel in Giardini Naxos, offering the most amazing view of Mount Etna - you felt as if you could just reach out from the hotel balcony and touch it - it was a truly wonderful sight to behold. After a light lunch, we had time to just explore the hotel, the surrounding town and / or just to chill after the journey from the UK. This was followed by a welcome drinks reception where you can start to get to know your fellow travellers. The next day we headed to Taormina, a stunning cliff-top town used in many a film location ('The White Lotus' immediately springs immediately to mind). What a beautiful place this is, with its cobbled streets full of beautiful shops, restaurants, dwellings with the most beautiful floral and ceramic balcony displays I have ever seen. A visit to the Greco-Roman amphitheatre is a must - not just because of its ancient history, but also offers the most amazing views of the Sicilian coastline below. By now, we as a group were starting to know one another a little better, and it felt comforting to have that company too. The next day we headed south to Siracusa - what a stunning place this is too. With our wonderful local guide (without whom we could have been wandering around aimlessly), we walked around this beautiful town. We crossed over to Ortigia Island and took a boat ride out to the famous Ortigia sea caves - an experience I will always remember; the beautiful crystal blues and greens of the sea, and the mighty vaults of the echoing caves! The next day - we were all bosom pals by this stage - we headed inland to visit the UNESCO site of the Villa Romana del Casale - an absolute must! I've seen roman ruins before, but this was something else entirely. You half expected to see toga-clad citizens around the corner - a true step back in time to marvel at the ingenuity of the Roman citizens of the time. We continued then for a wonderful tasting lunch at an eco-friendly olive ranch called Leano Agri-Resort; what a little gem of a find and to which I would certainly like to return one day. It's so worth moving inland, to experience Sicily's countryside scenery; being volcanic, it was a mixture of rugged mountains and verdant expanses of farmland. And off we went to our second hotel stay at the beautiful resort of Campofelice di Roccella, on the north coast; a perfect location for visiting Palermo; which we did, in its entirety the following day. This is truly a gritty, hectic and stunning city - full of culture, and Sicilian folklore: not to be missed. Our final day approached, and we stopped off in Cefalu, a beautiful coastal resort. After the freneticism of Palermo the previous day; this was the total opposite. The most beautiful town with a stunning cathedral, and sea views - a place to just stop and relax at one of the many bars and restaurants and partake in a refreshing granita, or two. So - please don't be wary of travelling alone - this is the PERFECT way to do it in my opinion. 'JUST YOU' have many global itineraries, just like this. Embrace the world and meet like-minded travellers - many a friendship has been forged this way. You are SOLO but never ALONE. Feel free to contact me for further details or to enquire about any other of their myriad escorted solo trips across the world.

26 June 2023

I often say to clients that there are cruises to suit every age, budget, demographic and interest. The one from which I've recently returned, was the PERFECT one for me, so I thought I'd do a quick blog, if ever you thought all cruises were the same: they're not! If you’re looking for casinos, West End entertainment and getting dressed up to the nines, this is NOT the type of cruising for you. However, if you’re into wild nature at its best, with a National Geographic slant; THIS is the one for sure. @aeexpeditions (Aurora Expeditions) Flying direct from Newcastle to Oslo, with an overnight stay at the Radisson Blu Airport Hotel, and then an early morning departure flight up to Svalbard in the Arctic (with a quick immigration stop at Tromso). Landing in Longyearbyen, was a very surreal experience with its bleak and rugged mountain landscape taking our breath away already. We overnighted again at Radisson Blu in Longyearbyen, before embarkation the next day. A brief stop at the Svalbard Museum, which gave us a fascinating insight into its history of wildlife trapping. Then off to Camp Berentz to experience the history of this famous explorer and learn a little more about the hostile, but awe-inspiring environment we were in....and welcomed by beautiful, working sled dogs. They are still used to this day for day-to-day activities in and around Svalbard. From there we briefly visited the famous Svalbard seed-bank, where many near-extinct plants and seeds are safely kept and cultivated, just in case they are ever need in the event of a global catastrophe! Finally onto the GREG MORTIMER ship where we were greeted by the fabulous staff, with drinks and canapés. After settling in we headed to the Lecture Theatre to meet Christophe Bichoux (Expedition Leader) who talked us through the 'plans' for the following day. Being an Expedition cruise, nothing is set in stone, as Nature decides what we can and can't do! The ship holds 132, but we were 82 from around the globe, including the UK, Australia, USA, Mexico, Germany, the Netherlands, France, the Philippines, South Africa, Belgium, Norway, Namibia and Ireland - an eclectic mix indeed! The Expedition Leaders are also an eclectic mix of Micro-Biologists, Astro-Physicists, Glaciologists, Wildlife Photographers, Marine & Terrestrial Biologists and Experience Polar Explorers, along with Scuba and Kayak specialists: another eclectic and fascinating mix! The next day, we were awoken to stunning landscapes, with thick ice floes surrounding the ship. We were all anxious to get out and amongst Nature, but before any beach landings take place, we had to undertake an in-depth biosecurity check to ensure no external seeds or contaminants had hijacked their way from other countries to risk the fragile pristine nature of Svalbard's biodiversity. Once done, we donned our outdoor Arctic gear. and boarded the zodiacs to get up 'close and personal' with the magnificent nature around us. Just navigating the ice packs was exhilarating (and freezing!) but then to get up close and personal to my favourite creatures: the walrus! What magnificent, noisy and smelly creatures they are. Walrus is a corruption of the old Norwegian word 'hvalross', meaning 'whale-horse' - a very apt description! After a great night's sleep (despite the 24 hour daylight up here at this time of year) we had our first 'beach' landing. The place had to be vetted first in case there were polar bears around and the Team were on constant Polar Bear alert. My first taste of the real Arctic, with cliffs awash with the cacophony of thousands of nesting and fighting black-legged kittiwakes, Brunnich's guillemots and northern fulmars - what a sight to witness. We then divided into three groups according to hiking ability and off we went. We encountered so many different species of birds; Atlantic Puffins, Dovekies, Barnacle & Brant Geese, Snow Buntings and Purple Sandpipers, as well as learning about the fascinating geology of the area too. We went into a long-abandoned hut belonging to the famous Wanny Wolstad - the first female trapper, and it was amazingly preserved: she must have had some guts! The beach and zodiac trips were superb, all the time listening to and participating in Citizen Science experiments. We trawled for plankton to observe some barnacle nauplii and copepods; we conducted Cloud surveys for the ISS as they cannot differentiate between cloud and ice at the Polars from space, so rely on Scientists on the ground to feed them the necessary bi-daily data, then zodiacing back to the ship, it was wonderful just to listen to the noisy silence! The sea was constantly crackling with glaciers, growlers, bergy bits and icebergs - we were surrounded by them all. Every day presented us with something new and beautiful; from the bluest of blue icebergs, to thick sea ice packs with fresh polar bear prints, to Seals, Puffins, Beluga and Minke Whales, as well as Humpbacks, with their amazing flukes. We had a chance to visit an abandoned Soviet settlement in one of the Fjords called Pyramiden. When the Svalbard Treaty was signed in 1920, it was deemed that any signatory country to the Treaty could have equal access to Svalbard’s resources…nowadays mainly coal. The Russians set up camp and the workers were treated extremely well. After two years of working here, the average Russian miner could leave with enough money to by both a car and a house back home in Russia ! However, it was finally abandoned in the late 90s. Only a handful of people now live there, and it is indeed a spooky place. (photos on my Facebook Business Page if you’re interested) Then after nine nights at sea, we eventually had the moment we had been waiting for! After hours of searching we eventually saw the most magnificent Polar Bear walking along the beach. It then dipped gracefully into the freezing waters and started a two hour hunt, crossing the bay, then turning back and swimming between the ice floes. We knew exactly where s/he was headed: to two seals sitting in the ice floe. I know; but it’s nature and we were but observers and it was just like being in a David Attenborough documentary – an experience I will never forget. All told, the most amazing experience I’ve had. Please do feel free to check out my photos on both my Instagram and Business Facebook pages and happy to answer any questions https://www.facebook.com/cathychapmanTC/ cathychapman_travel_counsellor (Instagram)

22 April 2019

Never heard of a Hurtigruten Cruise before? That's because they don't do 'cruises'; they do 'voyages', and the most spectacular ones at that! What's the difference? With 'Hurtigruten', the ships are simply the means of getting you to the most wonderful places on earth, mostly inaccessible by other cruise lines. Just when you thought you knew everything there was to know about cruising, or like me, you are one of the many people who 'don't do cruising' , this could well be for you! The ship is your comfortable 'base-camp' at sea. There's no 'formal' entertainment on a Hurtigruten voyage: no on-board casinos, no West End shows and no formal dressing up. The entertainment is the spectacular scenery passing by the floor length windows every day. The entertainment is watching a working ship at work: delivering and receiving freight, people and food: always fresh produce which goes to making the most delicious meals from 'Norway's Coastal Kitchen.' The Lonely Planet Guide named Hurtigruten's classic voyage as 'The World's Most Beautiful Voyage; and rightly so, taking in 12,000 nautical miles of Norway's stunning coastline, crossing the Arctic Circle to the Russian border. Sailing in the summer months will bring you the stunning landscapes of the Midnight Sun, whereas sailing in the autumn and winter months will enrich you with the autumnal changes in the forests by the fjords and the spectacular Northern Lights. Travelling deep into the Artic Circle, in the winter months, you'll experience them in all their glory: Hurtigruten are so confident of you seeing them, being so much further north than Iceland, that they even promise a return 6 day voyage free of charge, if you don't. What better entertainment can there be? Hurtigruten have been going since 1893 but mainly (and still) as a postal and freight service along the Norwegian coastline. On board, the ships are beautiful in the Scandinavian way: clean, crisp and functional. Locals pop on board, going about their daily lives and relying on Hurty to get them from A to B.....it's a true experience of real life. On board, there are fascinating educational talks by wildlife experts, by National Geographic accredited guides who talk about what you can expect to see in the places you visit. Fancy kayaking in the pristine Arctic waters? Fancy King Crabbing? Fancy sled riding with huskies? With Hurtigruten you can do it all. Hurty are extremely environmentally aware. On the 2nd July 2018 , their 125th birthday, they banned completely all single use plastic across the fleet. They continue to make inroads by looking into producing uniforms which are also 100% plastic free and have even converted their ships (not all done yet) into hybrids wherever possible, using as much bio-mass as possible from fish waste amongst other things! On their shore visits, you are 'kindly invited' to help with litter picking along the shore, as a payback for being privileged enough to experience the most spectacular scenery and wildlife in the remotest of areas. And who wouldn't want to be part of that! Most ships have an 'Expedition team' who are experts in nature, guiding, culture and history. They bring the Norwegian coastline to life with their lectures and insider knowledge, and deliver photography classes too in preparation for any wildlife visits the following day. Bring your camera! Hurty don't only voyage along the Norwegian coastline (and high into the Artic Circle to Kirkenes on the Russian border), but they also voyage to Alaska, Antarctica, Svalbard, the Northwest Passage, Greenland, Iceland, North and South America and even the Caribbean and Central America. Not bad for a Norwegian postal company!

17 March 2019

Think you know cruise? Think again! A look at the latest ‘cruise trends’ I am one of the many people who previously said: ‘I’ll never do a cruise; too many people; it’s like Butlins at sea’ etc…how wrong was I? I am now a complete convert from being that somebody who would stick her heels in, once coming down on one side of an argument or opinion, to having it completely overturned by experience. I’ve now done 2, so I’m still a work in progress; one river cruise, and one ocean. Apart from the inevitable weight gain (get back to the gym immediately afterwards! or not) they were both fantastic experiences. Cruises are becoming more and more fashionable, thanks to people like Jane MacDonald who has an amazing job, travelling the world trying out various cruise liners…not that I’m envious at all! There is a cruise for every person: yes, seriously! From your big family friendly ships, to your small expedition ships, and everything else in between: they represent amazing value for money, irrespective of one’s budget. We have the top notch 6*/7* companies, such as SilverSeas, Regent 7 Seas (on my bucket-list for when I win the lottery!) all the way down to the friendly and familiar P&O, MSC, Fred Olsen etc: there really is something for everybody. I’m not biased in any way (well ok, maybe a little) BUT my favourite of all is the Expedition cruise company called Hurtigruten. Not a ball gown or tiara in site, but more like waterproofs and snow boots. Here the destination is King, and the ship just a way (albeit, stunning) of getting you to where you want to be, up the Norwegian coast to experience the most spectacular things Mother Nature ever produced! I’m hoping to finally get on board in October 2019! What are the main trends for 2019 and beyond? We’ve seen the advancement of technology for sure with bar robots (Royal Caribbean), onboard Oxygen bars, suspended over water areas for dining (Celebrity’s The Edge) with companies becoming more and more innovative. Much more emphasis too (thankfully!) on wellness and healthy eating (who wants to seriously put on a stone whilst on a cruise!) but have a look at some other trends too. •Experiential Cruising has evolved as cruise passengers are looking for immersive, cultural experiences beyond sightseeing. Bucket lists have become more goal-oriented and cruise lines are meeting these demands. Passengers can conquer Machu Picchu or complete culinary workshops hosted by Le Cordon Bleu chefs. •Smart Technology Cruising: Cruise lines have adopted wearable technology for cruise passengers including keychains, necklaces and bracelets in order to provide a highly personalised travel experience while on and off the ship. •Conscious Travel Cruising: Passengers are wanting to see the world in a conscious, mindful way. The cruise industry is more conscientious than ever, working with local communities to preserve their heritage and implementing innovations that decrease the environmental footprint of cruise travel. The industry is also working with destinations to bring the benefits of tourism to local economies while preserving local cultures, landmarks and environments. •Luxury Travel Cruising: it has always been with us (Cunard Transatlantic crossings spring to mind) but passengers are setting their sights on destinations that were previously out of reach, some only accessible now by cruise ship. They want to be among the first of their peers to experience destinations such as the Galapagos Islands and Antarctica, but to do it in style. •Generation Z at sea: Gone are the days when cruising was ‘just for the oldies’. More and more youngsters are being attracted to cruising due to the explosion of music-themed cruises with live DJs at sea. This generation is set to become the largest consumer generation in the next two years, outpacing Millennials. Like the generation before, this age bracket prefers authentic experiences over material items and has an even greater wanderlust. • ‘Working Nomads Cruising: Combining work with leisure time is on the rise. Straying far from the notion of device-free travel, many modern travellers or “digital nomads” are opting for trips where they can work remotely which cuts down on time off and lost wages. (fewer days holiday to take) With WiFi, desks and work-friendly cafes, travellers can keep up with work while enjoying a cruise vacation. •Female-Centred Cruising: With the number of female travellers growing, many tourism and travel companies are creating female-centred itineraries based on connecting women with other women. Female-centred cruises can create a female empowerment community at sea while allowing travellers to experience the world around them. •Going Solo Cruising: With more Google searches for “solo travel” and “travelling alone” than ever before, travelling alone is rising in popularity. Cruising allows for solo travel without the worry while visiting even the most far-reaching destinations and facilitates connecting with other travellers. If you haven’t even given a cruise a second’s thought, maybe it’s time to give it a go? Pick the right cruise, and you won’t be disappointed.

12 November 2018

Fancy a short break away not too far from home? Think Northern Ireland! Many people have their own opinions, but have you been and found out for yourself? Just a quick hour's journey from most UK airports, in my case Newcastle, and you're there. Because I wanted to make the most of my three-day break, I decided to hire a car. I stayed in a village called Hillsborough, just south of Lisburn which made everything very easily accessible. I arrived on the Friday afternoon with just enough time for a quick visit to the local village. Day One: Belfast Day one was going to be my long-held wish to see Belfast for myself, and to make up my own mind, rather than simply rely on the opinions of other travellers. So off into Belfast and a must-do visit to the Titanic Museum. Although obviously very sad, the actual history of the Harland and Wolff shipyards was very interesting, and the films shown, very thought provoking. There is an area where you stand over a glass floor showing the debris field in the aftermath of the sinking and you actually feel as if you're one of the divers making the actual discovery - very surreal. After that, just across the road to pick up the Belfast City Hop on/Hop off tour. Got my ticket at a café called Cast & Crew, who seriously do the best brownies in the world! Don't miss it! The bus tour took about one hour and it's a great way to get your bearings whilst learning from local people. We started off travelling to Stormont (wondering when the politicians will return to their jobs!) which was a surprisingly very beautiful place with fabulous grounds. Then onto the 'troubled' areas which we've all read about and seen on myriad news channels. Learning about the history behind the 'Troubles' was very moving. Enough said. The dividing wall between Catholics and Protestants is still there, and awash with graffiti slogans of peace etc which I found both upsetting but strangely uplifting too with messages of hope. Continuing onto the Shankill Road, with colourful political murals and Unionist flags everywhere. Then a straight drive down the Falls Road area of Belfast. Again, equally intriguing and covered too in political murals right, left and centre: a definite must-see. Then onto Queens University Belfast where the famous Liam (amongst others) ‘I will find you and I will kill you' Neeson studied. A very leafy part of the city. Finally, I was dropped off in the centre of Belfast's main shopping area – I loved it as it has a very buzzy vibe. Day 2: The Antrim Coastal Route The Giant's Causeway and the Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge today but the long way around, via the coastal route. Just 10 minutes north drive out of Belfast and you come upon the most stunning scenery ever! Initially east to Carrickfergus (nothing special despite the poetry) apart from a great castle on the shore, and onto Whitehead where I had the famous Ulster Fry - gotta be done! Driving past Larne, one of the cross-channel ferry ports (not very pretty I'm afraid) but the rest of the Coastal Route is stunning. I drove onto Torr Head, which is the closest point between Northern Ireland and Scotland. A very scary windy path to get there, via a one lane track full of sheep but worth persevering for. The weather wasn't brilliant, so it was hard (but not impossible) to make out the coast of Scotland over the Irish Sea. A quick stop-off in Ballycastle for a beautiful photo opportunity and then onto The Giants' Causeway. Giant's Causeway & Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge I think it would be very atmospheric where it not for the coach loads of like-minded tourists like myself. So to get the full-on impact of such a geographically stunning place, I would suggest either going out of season if you possibly can, or very early in the morning or as late at night as entry times permit. I wasn't a great fan of the (overly) commercialised gift shop through which you have to exit, but I do understand the financial strain in keeping such places of natural outstanding beauty going. If you're going to the Causeway, you can't escape (and why would you want to) the famous Carrick-o-Rede rope Bridge; another must-do when visiting Northern Ireland, but not for the faint-hearted! Dark Hedges Moving on from the Causeway back to Hillsbrough; a little detour via the B1147 to a tiny hamlet called Stranocum. Out in the sticks, but worth it. I admit to never having seen a single episode of Game of Thrones, so wondered initially why there were so many people there, but the Hedges, (made famous by the TV Series) are beautiful. My photos really don't do it justice at all. However, I would advise either going very early in the morning, or as late at night as daylight permits to try and avoid the inevitable crowds. Day 3: Donegal via Omagh About an hour's drive west of Hillsbrough will lead you into Omagh, where I wanted to stop and pay my respects to the victims of the Omagh bombing. A typical Northern Irish town, full of normal UK shops but with the beautiful Omagh Cathedral dominating the High Street. It's a lovely place to spend a quiet 20 minutes in tranquillity, before the hustle and bustle of the High Street downhill. I made my way down the high street to go to the Remembrance Garden, the 'Garden of Light'. En route, you pass by a huge glass pillar with a heart in the middle which sits at the exact spot where the tragedy occurred 20 years ago. A remembrance service had just taken place the week before to commemorate this 20th anniversary, so the garden was full of flowers, delicately placed around the pool. The garden itself is a real feat of emotional engineering, with 31 very poignant poles each commemorating a life lost. The mirrors at the top of the poles catch the reflected sun, which then reflects into the pool below. Beautiful! Then a 40-minute drive westwards to Donegal, crossing the border at a village called Pettigo. Blink and you miss it! A bit weird when all the Imperial road signs suddenly change into the yellow metric ones as you cross into Eire. Unfortunately, time was not on my side so I only had time to do the drive along the peninsula, but really wanted to have a stop in the beautiful town of Donegal itself. An excuse to come back, if ever there was one. So, there's so much to do in Northern Ireland and after just 3 days away, you feel like it's been much longer. If you want any further tips or have any questions, don't hesitate to give me a call on 01388 548390.

27 May 2018

OK, so not your glamorous destination of choice....but an amazing experience all the same! Having worked for Air France for many years in the past, and also in Paris for 2 years as a holiday rep with Thomson (TUI) Holidays, Charles de Gaulle airport (CDG) used to be the stuff of nightmares...not any more! For the majority of flyers, we've now moved away from the dreaded 'Camembert' satellite and into the quite futuristic Terminal 2E......then transiting on from either K, L or M... No longer is there a high number of travellers who miss their connections due to the previous crazy layout of the terminals: now it's just a hop (literally a 1 minute hop from K to L, and another minute if going from L to M via electric train. But please do stop in the centre one known a L....it's like you're in a First Class Executive Lounge BUT IT'S ALL FREE!! Yes, you have your First Class Lounges in L, and your Air France Executive Lounges in M (coming back to this one) but L was great. Not just because it's free (although that's a bonus) but because of its total tranquility and attention to detail. Relaxing lounge areas, areas to watch a movie if you so wish, areas with giant Jenga for the children, areas to re-charge your electronic devices.... even a hotel at the end of the corridor whose rooms you can pay for either overnight, or for a 4 hour period to have a shower and get your head down in between your connecting flights: a 'pod' hotel with amazing facilities: just perfect for the weary traveler, both singles, couples and families. Visiting the Air France Executive Lounge in the M terminal is a great experience. You can turn up on the day, pay your 45 Euros, and enter Heaven itself.....This price includes drinks, food by a top notch French chef, and also a 20 minute Clarins facial...I ask you...what's not to like! With its excellent facilities (yes, huge showers with Clarins toiletries), a Business section, a children's section with all sorts of Xbox paraphernalia going on....I reckon the entrance fee is a bargain. If you're travelling Business or First, then it's free and you can only pay to go in if room allows...that makes sense and seems very fair. So, not the most glamorous of day trips......but an eye-opener into how CDG has been transformed. I will now always use CDG as a transit hub.....bye bye Schiphol :-)

04 May 2017

Beautiful Cyprus - home of Aphrodite and so much more. Upon landing at Larnaca airport we were duly whisked away to the fabulous Adams Beach resort Hotel in Agia Napa on the East coast of Cyprus. We were met by the very friendly staff and after unpacking were shown around this fabulous 5 star property, right on Nissi Beach. It's a perfect place for families, couples, in fact anybody and everybody as they cater for all. I particularly liked the wedding gazebo and chapel in the hotel grounds, which were both so picturesque and right on the beach front. It has its own very small private beach to the side, but I would recommend the public beach to the other side more for children as it's very sandy, not shingly, and the water slopes more gently here. The décor of the hotel is certainly 5 star and very sumptuous with fantastic spa facilities, and classy shops on-site, as well as a wonderful cocktail piano bar to while away the balmy evenings. We then visited Agia Napa monastery, a wonderful hidden gem, right in the centre of party land! It's very small, but very beautiful and most certainly a must-see. Here you'll also find very welcome shade under the magnificent ancient and gnarled olive trees. But please remember that it is a place of worship, and entering all churches and monasteries in Cyprus, you are reminded to wear 'suitable' clothing and to cover up. After lunch at a local harbour-side tavern, and another overnight stay, we moved slightly further east around the coast to Protaras. From here, we visited the amazing Cavo Greko sea caves - what a visit! Taking care to descend the rickety steps down the slope to the sea, it was well worth it. Once inside the caves, you feel you've stepped back millennia and all you can hear is the crashing of the waves; it's so peaceful. From there, we went to Fig Tree Bay in Protaras itself, and from what I saw, I would certainly recommend this as a come-to area: less busy than Agia Napa certainly, but very beautiful too. We were fascinated by the history of the Turkish-Cypriot war in 1974 and could see the ghost town of Famagusta, a short drive away from Protaras, with its washing still left on the lines from all those years ago: very sad. Moving westwards along the coast, our next stop was Larnaka; not just an airport! We visited the beautiful church of St. Lazarus, which holds his tomb in the crypt. It would be a shame not to visit this lovely town when you come into/out of the airport. We then went to the famous hotel St. Raphael where we stayed overnight. Its entrance is awe-inspiring and its staff very friendly and welcoming. What the rooms lack in 5 star décor luxury, the restaurant certainly makes up for! I believe this hotel is due for, perhaps a warranted, renovation very soon. Cyprus is so much more than beaches and tavernas - although they are wonderful too - but head inland and up the hills to the vineyards and you'll be pleasantly surprised. We visited the Zambartas vineyards, a long-established family-run winery, with the most delicious Cypriot wines. From here, we travelled onto Omodos village. I can't recommend this place highly enough, as it's a beautiful working village, where you can even partake in a spot of bread-making yourselves! The smells were amazing as the bakery is open to the streets and draws you in. Yes, it can become quite busy in the peak season, with buses disgorging the many tourists who've been told about this place, but out of season, it's just beautiful, calm and relaxed. Don't forget to visit the Monastery too, with its wealth of history and artefacts on show. After an obligatory stop at the rock of Aphrodite for photo opportunities we moved onto Paphos, to the 5 star Almyra hotel. This is a very minimalist hotel, very stylish with its infinity pools, its spas and amazingly beautiful reception/eating areas. However, although the bedrooms were very generous in size, they lacked a 'woman's eye' for the necessaries. If only they'd think that women need a generous mirror, and not a small porthole fashion mirror whereby you need to be at least 6 feet tall to actually see through it, it would have been perfect! When you're only 5 feet 2, and have to stand on a chair to put your make-up on, for me, that let the otherwise beautiful accommodation down a little. On the plus side, the children's facilities and in particular the crèche facilities were world-class. It's so much more than a kids' club; this is truly certified infant/childcare at its best. No wonder the hotel has a high percentage of repeat customers with children! From there we visited the sister hotel next door, the Hotel Annabelle. In my opinion, this is more suited to the 40+ demographic, as it's a little more traditional than the Almyra in its décor. It's a wonderful, clean, bright place to be with fantastic pools and accommodation. It truly is a top 5 star experience, and I would stay here without a shadow of a doubt. The furnishings in the rooms were exquisite, but very cosy and the rooms had wonderful large mirrors; it had been truly thought through (possibly with a woman's eye!) My hotel of choice of all the ones we visited! From there we visited the most amazing and fascinating archeological site just up the road from Paphos harbor. You simply cannot leave Paphos without paying it a visit. The ancient history of the place is fascinating and the mosaics which had been discovered were stunning. It certainly helped having a local tour guide, who fascinated us with her wealth of knowledge about the stories depicted on each mosaic. Top tip: pay for a tour guide, otherwise you won't be able to get the most from this visit. I will never think of William Shakespeare again in the same light - I will leave that hanging! Our tour guide also took us to see the remains of an ancient theatre, not an amphitheatre as I would have called it, but it was not a full round, therefore didn't qualify for that name! Who knew! The ancient method of acoustics was tried out by all, it worked but not a microphone in site. Finally a visit up the hills en route back to Larnaca airport to the most beautifully relaxing place of them all: Tochni village! If you're looking for the rustic, no frills, but stunning vacation, you've found it right here: Mamma Mia territory. This is where agro-tourism meets eco-tourism and I promise you won't be disappointed. Although hidden away, it allows you to access all other main parts of the island and is a refreshing break from the 5 star luxury lifestyle. Come with a few books, turn off your WiFi (although it's available), chill by the beautiful pools with a bottle of the local wine, and RELAX. Beautiful Cyprus; I can't recommend it enough. Aphrodite was right! Many thanks to the wonderful Cypriot Tourist Board for welcoming and hosting us: I will certainly be back.

09 November 2016

Oh my! If ever there was a spectacle to see, it's this one, and yes we've now seen it eight times! Think Pollenca, Majorca and you will probably think of the better-known (and touristier) port area, totally beautiful in its own right. But venture inland and uphill for about 4km and you find old Pollenca town itself, an amazingly serene working town, typically Mallorcan in character. Its main square, Placa Major is dominated by the magnificent Catholic Church, Esglèsia de Nostra Senyora dels Àngels, and surrounded by plentiful cafes and tapas bars. So far, so good. However, if you go, and you must, try the first week in August for a spectacle never to be forgotten! This is the time for the La Patrona! Picture a re-enactment of when the Moors of yore invaded Pollenca (as they did quite regularly) and the time when the indigenous Christians fought back. They'd had enough and boy, what a battle! If you're lucky (or unlucky) enough to be in a hotel overlooking the main square, you will be woken up at 5am (yes, 5 AM) with the threatening and quite mournful sound of a conch shell, which was a call-to-arms for the menfolk in the village to get prepared to defend and fight the incoming invading Moors. The sound of the conch shell is really quite surreal. Then all goes quiet for a few hours. The townsfolk who represent the Christians are always dressed in white on this day, to symbolize the nightwear their ancestors were wearing at the time of the early-morning invasion by the pirates (the Moors). Quite a lot of visitors, like ourselves, also wear white to feel a part of this amazing Festival. Throughout the day, there are taunts between the Moors and the Christians but the main battle doesn't commence until about 6pm in the evening, whereby both sides have eaten their fill, and drank quite copious amounts of 'fuel'. You can literally smell the testosterone, you really can, as the two sides taunt each other from opposing ends of the main square. The pirates, think Johnny Depp on steroids, with their beautiful colourful silken outfits, and war paint to match, start making themselves known in no uncertain terms. After much cannon fire, much insult-hurling and spent gunpowder, the two sides start to clash (all completely choreographed of course); the townswomen and children to one side, as well as the tourists (no health and safety here by the way, and so much the better for it too!) the authenticity of the re-enactment is palpable. As battle commences, with sabres and pitch-forks aloft, the two sides are on a collision course in these tiny streets of this medieval town. The battle rages on with much pushing, shoving, gunfire and basic mayhem fuelled by their afternoon liquid lunches; it's totally fantastic! Eventually they make their way to the local football field just over the Roman Bridge to complete their shenanigans and 'make-up' and meet with their families. I do no justice whatsoever to this amazing festival, but feel free to Google away. I 100% recommend it as a 'have-to' event, most definitely leaving the port area and beaches for; you will not regret it.