Far East Adventure - Part 2, The Eastern Oriental Express
By early afternoon, the train has stopped, and we are at the River Kwai, where we are disembarking. The first version of the bridge, built in 1943, was all wood and was located 200m up stream. Later the same year, in April 1943, a steel bridge was built. During 1945 the bridge was bombed many times and was rebuilt only after the end of the war. The curved portions you see today are the only original remaining pieces. If it were not for Pierre Boulle’s novel and the film of the same name, this bridge would not have the international awareness it does today. One of my favourite photos of the train was taken here as the it proceeds over the bridge and returns 5 or so minutes later.
The large floating barge was waiting for us to board to take us along the Kwai Yoi and Kwai Noi rivers. This hour-long sailing gives you the opportunity to see the traditional teakwood houses amidst the peaceful scenery.
Reaching the Chung Kai cemetery, the sun is shining and its warm on my face, but there is a sombre feeling as I take in the Frangipani trees that dot this landscape of memorial plaques. A special addition given that Thai people only plant them at temples and cemeteries and do not allow them in their homes. Today is my 21st birthday. I am struck by the names and ages on the plaques of the soldiers that lie here, far away from home. More than most of them are in fact younger than I am at that very moment. Whilst sad, this place is peaceful and a place that I would hope my children would learn from when they have the chance to see it for themselves.
Onwards by coach past the sugar cane fields, stopping at the North Temple, Vietnamese Temple, Chinese cemetery, and Don Rak war cemetery before re-joining the train at Kanchanaburi main station. After relaxing in my compartment and reflecting on the sight s of today, it’s down to the Bar Car for a beautiful meal and a few drinks. Retiring back to the compartment I can hardly believe the transformation after my cabin steward as transformed it into a cosy bedroom.
Waking in the morning my breakfast is served to me, in bed, where I eat my toast and marmalade and sip tea that was poured from a silver teapot, watching the countryside teeter by the window. After getting dressed I spent the rest of the morning in the observation car chatting to other passengers on board.
It’s not long until I am disembarking in Butterworth to make the journey by ferry to Georgetown in Penang. Taking in sights such as Fort Wallis and Weld Quay where you can see the traditional houses built over the water on stilts. The labyrinth of streets through Chinatown reveal colonial architecture and lively local markets.
After visiting a Chinese Clan house, I then board a rickshaw where the ride back through the colourful narrow streets passes a Chinese temple before returning to the ferry terminal – returning to Butterworth and the E&O Express. Relaxed and dressed for dinner this evenings entertainment is in the Bar Car with a resident pianist, who to my surprise is dressed as Elvis and doing his best Thai impersonation of ‘the king’
When I boarded the train as a 21-year-old from Manchester who had never been anywhere so luxurious, I was daunted by the grandeur of this train, and it’s something I have heard off clients many times. ‘It’s not for us, we are not that posh!’
The staff, the other guests and the overall atmosphere was one of comfort and understated luxury, that never once made me feel like I shouldn’t be on board or was not welcome.
Waking up again to breakfast in bed, I relaxed until I watched the train head into Singapore via the causeway of the Straits of Johor.
I’ll be walking you through my adventure in the cultural melting pot of Singapore in part 3.
Claire.x
**Photo Disclaimer - these images are over 20 years old and have been taken from a traditional photo album, they may not be of the same digital quality we are used to today - but they are original.