15 October 2023

She buzzes during the day with an army of pavement-pounding wanderers, clicking furiously with their phones at the gorgeous baroque architecture, intertwining cobbled streets, and stunning hillside views of the Douro River. Porto is a city that sits comfortably within its confines. There’s no need to shout from the rooftops; she knows her worth. This magnetic European bolthole makes the perfect break for an extended weekend, or longer if you feel the urge to explore further afield. Lisbon can easily be reached by train in just over 2 hours. It offers a mix of grand churches and restored traditional townhouses painted in beautiful colours of green, yellow, blue, and terracotta with those famous azulejo tiles. The streets, restaurants, bars, and Riverside are abuzz day and night. Tuk-tuks offering city tours whizz into the narrow streets, some of which are a little inaccessible for today’s standard cars. Boats and water taxis constantly float up and down the river, offering short bridge tours, Douro Valley wine tours, or quick and easy access to the Gaia opposite. Transport links are excellent, with a network of trains, metros, trams, and buses running around town and to the nearby charming town of Foz and its less fortunate-looking neighbour, Matosinhos. However, do not overlook the latter if fresh fish is your thing, as there are several brilliant seafood restaurants on offer. The food on our visit to O Valentim was fabulous. We had grilled octopus to start with a fresh side salad and variety of fresh baked bread, followed by two medium portions of seafood. My seafood dish was served with rice, clams, and shrimp (huge prawns) and my travel buddy's spaghetti, with fresh tuna and the same huge prawns. These were presented in fair-sized lidded cooking pots, and to be honest, one would have fed us perfectly. They were huge and such a bargain at only 17.00 euros per pot. The cost of this whole fishy affair, along with two local Super Bock beers and a delicious bottle of wine from the nearby Douro Valley, came to an unbelievable 70 euros—yes, that's right, the equivalent of approximately £60. Superb! Back in Porto, if you're wanting to hang out somewhere authentic and drink with the locals, head to Aduela. A tiny little bar with breezy outdoor space offering excellent priced local wine and beer, an energetic social scene, and plates of tapas. The food was OK, but that isn't why you'd visit here. It's all about experiencing local life, forming new friendships in an energised setting, and drinking affordably delicious wine and beer. I'll be back for sure on my next visit. We LOVED it! For something chilled-out and arty, head out of the city on a local bus, approximately 35 minutes to Serralves. It’s a fabulous cultural institution combining a museum, a stunning Art Deco mansion, and beautiful, extensive gardens with huge sculptures, hidden walkways, fountains, and seating amongst the undergrowth. There’s also a treetop walkway where you can observe and study the biodiversity of Serravles Park, but my fear of heights wouldn’t allow it. You can easily combine a visit here, then head to the coast for an early fish dinner, then back to Porto's riverside for an evening of drinks sat by the twinkling riverside. There’s an abundance of accommodation on offer, from luxury 5-star hotels to local B&Bs in the heart of the city, some of whom I met on my trip, so if you’re interested to find out more, please feel free to get in touch.

18 February 2023

A chance to return to Como Shambhala Estate has always remained high on my bucket list, after a life changing visit back in 2007. Since then, the wellness industry has boomed, so I was curious to discover if their offering is still up there with the big hitters of today, and oh boy, they certainly did not disappoint. As soon as we disembarked from the plane, our friendly VIP escort with the widest of smiles, and arms stretched with board in hand greeted us both eagerly. This made the entrance into Bali swift after prearranging this service via the hotel - a godsend after 22hrs of travel, as custom queues are arduous and slow. It's well worth spending the extra 35USD to be whisked past the envious crowds. Putting you in touch with yourself and nature – Como is the Queen of all sanctuaries and the perfect place for a total reset. It's set on a hillside, amongst lush tropical jungle with stone walkways surrounding the estate, all of which lead to the estates own freshwater pools sat alongside the River Ayung – the setting throughout is spellbindingly beautiful. Service is attentive but not overbearing – everyone knows your name which results in providing a reassuring feeling, that you are safely cocooned amongst family and friends, whilst embarking on a deep and meaningful process, if you have chosen to. Treatments from their spa are wonderful. Every stroke, knead and rub is delivered with expertise and the pressure adapted to your needs. The Como Shambhala Special massage by far was a firm favourite, with long, rhythmic strokes from head to toe. Also featuring high on our favourites list were the Taksu massage which entailed a different type of flicks and strokes and stretches to help loosen the joints. The hot stone massage delivered by the incredible Ivan, was one of the best treatments I’ve ever had. Basically, here’s a masseuse who certainly knows how to work his stones. Sheer bliss! Each accommodation is hidden amongst stunning green foliage or behind ancient Balinese doors and walls, so all very private and discreet. Our 2-bedroom villa which was split over two floors each was vast in size and offered a private pool with built in jacuzzi, and a large outdoor space with sunbeds, living and dining area. The beds were extremely generous in size and uber comfy and the main master came with an enormous black marble bath overlooking the pool, outdoor shower and chillout swing taboot. The food served at both restaurants is exceptional, and views from the breakfast restaurant, Kudus House, which is a stunning 150-year-old Javanese residence set on the cliffside, are totally spellbinding! The hotel also offers many activities on the estate from Yoga, meditation, Balinese blessings to hiking around the estate, along with outdoor activities. We decided on taking a private tour with our guide on a cycle ride through the villages and rice paddy fields, which was relatively easy going and the scenes from local life and landscape, just breathtaking. I can safely say after my last visit 15 years ago, Como Shambhala still has that special zing. And as for the jungle setting on the mountain side, surround by rice paddy fields, and the sound of trickling water from the river below, bird song in the trees and constant croaking from the geckos, frogs and cicadas in the night-time, something truly magical. If you’d like to find out more about this unique retreat, please feel free to send an email or give me a call.

30 August 2017

Angkor Wat and Kbal Spean The following morning it was an early start to beat the crowds at the mighty Angor Wat, which for many, is one of the major highlights in Southeast Asia. The sheer magnitude and intricate workmanship put into the construction of this fascinating city, which in the early 12th century took over 37 years to build, undoubtedly blows everyone’s mind. Suryavarman II was the King of the Khmer Empire from 1113 AD – 1145- 1150 AD and the builder of Angkor Wat, which he dedicated to the Hindu God Vishnu. Inside the temple, the walls are covered with stone carvings and bas-reliefs depicting Hindu mythology and the wars which he fought during his reign. Whilst walking through the grounds and temple enclosure which still contain much of a magical feel, I found myself transported back in time with the help of our fabulous tour guide Pierre, who simply brought back everything to life with his in-depth knowledge and fantastic storytelling. Next, we headed to Kbal Spean which is one of the earliest Hindu pilgrimage sites in Cambodia and overlooked by many tourists. A 3km trek up the hill through dense jungle which I was dreading, will reward you with the “River of 1000 Lingas” and some remarkable stone carvings of Hindu gods, animals and other symbols in the river bed. During the rainy season, you can enjoy a refreshing dip in the waterfall. Once back at the base of the hillside, we were rewarded with a picnic of popular Khmer dishes of satay, fragrant curries and steamed rice delicately wrapped within banana leaves and sat in a neat woven box. Yum! After lunch, we headed to the “gem” of the Angkor area, the pretty temple of Bantaey Srei, also known as the “Citadel of the Women”, which remains as one of the best-preserved temples in Cambodia. It displays some of the finest examples of classical Khmer art and is famed for its remarkable fine bas-reliefs. Banteay Srei is unique in that it is constructed of pink sandstone, which is seen nowhere else in Angkor. The temple complex was surprisingly quiet and hassle-free, mid-afternoon, enabling our group to explore the temple grounds at a leisurely pace, before heading back to Phum Baitang to freshen up for our evening’s entertainment. Khmer banquet and ‘Phare, the Cambodian Circus’ After a superb Khmer banquet and inspection at the stunning Belmond La Residence D’Angkor hotel, sat in the heart of Siem River on the banks of the tree lined river, our host escorted us to the evening’s entertainment of ‘Phare, the Cambodian Circus’. This was not your usual circus! Phare perfectly combines dance, theatre and circus acrobats to live music which intertwines to tell unique Cambodian stories both traditional and modern. This fun and energetic show is suitable for all ages, with breath taking acts from its artists who are all graduates of the Phare Pomleu Selpak - a NGO school and professional arts training centre in Battambang which again is helping the country’s street kids towards a better future. The PPSA was founded in 1994 by nine young Cambodian men returning home from the refugee camp after the fall of the Khmer Rouge. At the camp, they took drawing classes and found art to be a powerful tool for healing, and so the school was born. Another heartfelt story which touched the group deeply, concluding a memorable show which left everyone feeling very upbeat. Lakeside cookery class and Siem Reap hotel recommendations Our final day in this charming, ancient city began with a visit to the countryside and nearby local market to buy produce needed for our half day cookery course. This took place in a stilted house overlooking a huge, tranquil lake. The fruits of our labour consisted of local delicacies of king prawn salad and fragrant amok fish curry accompanied with steamed rice, which were devoured within a matter of minutes and tasted great. Mid-afternoon included a quick stroll through the tourist area in the city, then on to a few nearby hotels for inspection. A couple of favourites worth mentioning which won’t break the bank are the 4* Viroths and The Aviary which both sit in the heart of Siem Reap. Both hotels are modern and stylish with beautifully appointed rooms and great range of onsite facilities. Vespa street food tour and mingling with the locals For our final evening, we were collected at the hotel by a squad of 14 Vespas to whisk us towards a local street food market, and engage on a tour especially created for those with a sense of adventure. From leaving the touristy Pub Street comfort zone and after a refreshing Vespa ride, night had fallen and we found ourselves in the middle of the hustle and bustle of street vendors inviting us to taste a seemingly endless variety of unusual foods and fruits that offer a spectacular diversity of flavours and colours. They were not for the faint-hearted, but all I can say is the crispy crickets, frogs’ legs and snails with garlic sauce all tasted surprisingly delicious. The next stop of the tour was a typical local grill where tasty BBQ snacks and drinks are served. Into the night, we moved to yet another part of Siem Reap with numerous night spots which are frequented by locals. Our destination was a speciality restaurant hidden in between bars and nightclubs. This restaurant boasts a local menu that really stood out in quality and variety. A selection of their best specialties was served, accompanied by drinks and local music performances. If like me, you prefer holiday experiences which steer clear of the main tourist trappings, then I could not recommend this 3-4 hour tour highly enough, as it keeps you well fed, hydrated whilst giving an authentic insight to the ways of local life.

30 August 2017

Bantaey Chhmar Village and Temple BBQ Once our touring of Siem Reap came to an end, I found myself still craving further adventure in this vibrant city awash with French colonial architecture, galleries, lakes, rivers and the friendliest of locals, but sadly it was time to hit the road to our next stop of Bantaey Chhmar village and temple complex. Our digs for the night would be in a local village homestay, something which I least was looking forward to and my main reason of wanting to stay in the comfortable, soothing confines of Siem Reap. Those who know me well, know of my massive fear of getting close with nature and the alien creatures which come to life in the dark of the night, but NOW was the time to step out of my comfort zone. The temple of Banteay Chhmar is a place of exceptional atmosphere which gets very few visitors. Its crumbling ruins seem sadly forgotten even though they form one of the great temple complexes from the Angkorian era. As expected, our village accommodation was basic but was assured fully functioning. After our temple tour, we strolled back through the village to our accommodation to change in to suitable clothing and apply plenty of mozzie spray before our BBQ dinner set within the temple ruins, whilst listening to the strumming of instruments from local musicians. Dinner consisted of a stir fry of vegetables, BBQ fish and, dare I say water snakes! Being the cowardly person that I am, I passed on the grilled snake but happily tucked in to the fish, vegetables and steamed rice, which again tasted moreish and thankfully washed down with a very strong Gin & Tonic to calm my jitters. As the night drew in, our energetic guide Pierre announced very enthusiastically that we had an evening to relax making my heart sink even further, as this meant extra bonus hours to my assumed night of horror. I moved hesitantly during our 10-minute stroll back to the village and after fretting and procrastinating on a benched table outside with my roomies, I finally gave in at 10.15pm and entered my room of doom. I lay for hours like a stiffened corpse, securely sealed within the confines of my mozzie net listening for any sudden sounds of those alien creatures of the night, but the next thing I knew it was daybreak, and awoke to the sound of a lip sync battle of neighbouring cockerels. Yay, I’d made it without a glimpse of any scuttling creatures and must admit, after pushing myself way beyond my normal comfort zone boundaries, this was such a fantastic experience getting down with the locals and would certainly do it all again in a heartbeat. Battambang bike rides, hand pulled noodles and on to the buzzing streets of Phnom Penh We hit the road again to our next destination of Battambang for a quick overnight stay before our early morning 30k cycle ride deep in to the beautiful, lush countryside. On this exhilarating tour, we cycled through the peaceful villages and at every turn, were greeted with many beaming smiles and the warm welcome of ‘hello’ as we were introduced to local farmers and villagers. This well organised authentic ½ day bike tour (approx. 4 hours and easy going), highlights the diversity of Cambodian culture and the complexity of its history, economy and local society, is suited to all and one which I cannot rate highly enough. After our bicycle ride, we made way for an early lunch stop at Lan Chov Khorko Miteanh of hand-pulled noodle and handmade dumplings which sell for approx. 70p a dish. I’m an avid fan of a similar well known place in South London, but this guy nicknamed ‘Noodle Guy’, firmly pipped them to the post. Don’t be put off by the grimy, ramshackle shop front or interior, as the food is amazingly fresh and appetisingly tasty. We arrived in Phnom Penh in the early evening for a swift check in to our hotel La Rose Suites, which boasts a prime location in the heart of the city. My ground floor room was enormous with adjoining kitchen/diner fully equipped with washing machine, fridge freezer and would easily accommodate for a family of three/four with plenty of extra space thrown in. Cambodians love their BBQs, so after a quick shower and scramble through my suitcase, we headed to Sovanna II for a feast of various meats and national dishes with our destination specialist and his team. It was a mouth-watering meal on a mammoth scale, so I found myself slipping into a trance like state before our mains had arrived. Fortunately, my room in La Rose sat opposite the restaurant, so the walk home was short and very slow. Walking Tour of Phnom Penh & IRoha Hotel visit The following morning, we took a walking tour to the leafy suburb of Boeun Keng Kang, then on to Wat Lanka, one of the oldest pagodas in Phnom Penh, then to a local community which with the help of a couple of French expats, who have turned this part of the city into an cool village with incredible street art, local bistros, funky bars and boutique shops. I loved this part of the city as it has a similar vibe to many of my favourite haunts in London, but there was not enough time to spend here as we made way towards the monumental Royal Palace and gardens. Next up we headed to the lovely IRoha Garden Hotel, which is roughly a 10 mins tuk tuk ride (approx. $3 US Dollars) from the main hub of Phnom Penh. This cute little boutique retreat offers a small selection of double and family rooms, all designed with a fresh, minimalist look with prices starting from as little as £50 per night. The hotel is set in a gorgeous, peaceful garden accompanied with a good-sized pool. We stopped for a spot of lunch which was beautifully presented and more importantly, delicious. Genocide Museum & Eclipse Bar Our visit to IRoha was followed by a visit to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and although harrowing, I feel it is so important to try and understand more about the Cambodian people and the dreadful atrocities which they suffered under the evil rule of Pol Pot from 1975 – 1979 which resulted in a quarter of the population perishing. Our mood was sombre as we drove back to the hotel for a quick freshen up before heading out for our final farewell of Phnom Penh. Our host felt it important to lift our spirits so arranged a visit to the Eclipse Sky Roof Bar which offers fantastic panoramic views of the city twinkling in the night. I’d always assumed apart from the Royal Palace, there wasn't much else happening in Phnom Penh but I can now confirm it’s a buzzing city full of wide tree-lined streets, French colonial buildings, bars, restaurants, street art and blend of interesting people. I loved its energy and feel a great future lays ahead, as more hotels and businesses start to head its way.

30 August 2017

Otres Beach, Sihanoukville After reluctant goodbyes with staff and management of super Song Saa, we headed back to port and towards Otres Beach which swoops around a massive bay. It’s dotted with several small boutique hotels, with low key restaurant and bars, overlooking the beach and nearby neighbouring islands which are soon to see luxury retreats from the Six Senses and Alila hotel groups. My favourite of these small retreats well suited to families, couples or singles alike, is the Ren Resort. This cosy hotel provides a selection of reasonably priced standard, club, premier and superior rooms - some with balconies, interconnecting doorways or direct access to their 50-metre pool which runs alongside rooms to the right-hand side of the property. Its beachside open-air restaurant provides day beds and parasols offering a very chilled setting which then atmospherically comes to life in the evening, with its soft beat music and twinkling lighting. The resort offers free use of its on site bicycles and can arrange private boat trips to neighbouring islands of Koh Tres and Koh Charloh which is great for snorkelling, Koh Ta Kiev for its beautiful beaches, horse riding on the beach or countryside, quad biking, paddle boarding and diving. Snoozing Riverside Town of Kampot Back on the road we drove through the dorian fruit and pepper growing region of Kampot, which in my eyes is the most beautiful part of Cambodia. In this sleepy, crumbling riverside town you’ll find streets lined with French architecture shophouses, which certainly have seen better days but which is half of its appeal. The pace of daily life here is snoozy and dreamlike. The Kampong Bay River sits attractively alongside the towns perimeters, serving as a pretty backdrop and watersports playground for visitors lodging in either the boutique retreats or backpacker accommodation on its river banks. It makes a fabulous base for those wanting to explore the abandoned and creepy buildings of Bokor Hill Station and Bokor National Park, cave-temples of Phnom Chngouok, wildlife and lush surrounding fertile countryside. Sadly, we were up against the clock so there was no time to spare in this dozy little town tugging at my heartstrings, so it was onward bound to the coastal town of Kep for our last supper, and overnight stay before our final farewells the following day. Kep - Knai Bang Chatt Resort This secluded art deco style retreat consisting of 3 villas sits on the seafront overlooking the Gulf of Thailand and provides a mixture of 18 different styled rooms, some with sea or garden views. The rooms, each with mosquito netted beds, are individually designed with rustic finishes of water coloured walls, natural stone, wood and beautifully dressed with stylish antique furnishings. No TVs are provided in the rooms, making it the perfect place to reconnect with oneself and unwind with a good book whilst lounging on one of their king size daybeds, surrounding the pool in the main garden This retreat provides spa treatments, yoga and meditation, sailing courses, fabulous food and sundowner cocktails from its in house restaurant and neighbouring sailing club bar. Its vibe is stylish but without the pretence resulting in a relaxed, homely feel and one which I loved so much, I decided to stay for an extra night before heading back to Phnom Penh for my flight back to the U.K. Cambodia is a nation full of surprises. It has something for everyone from families, culture and history lovers, to backpackers just looking for that perfect stretch of white sand. There is never a dull moment in this beautiful, friendly and vivacious country. If you would like to find out more about here or nearby surrounding parts of Asia, please do not hesitate to get in touch.

22 August 2017

Cardamom Mountain Range & Sihanoukville Depending how much time you have, one can either fly within 2.5 hours from Phnom Penh to the main costal region of Sihanoukville or drive, as we did for approx. 4.5 – 5 hours where you’ll be rewarded with beautiful scenery and the mutterings of WOW at every given turn. Cambodia’s southern provinces offer dramatic contrasts to the flat central regions and provide keen photographers with those perfect picture opportunities, which would make most professionals green with envy. In this fertile region, overlooked by the Elephant and South Cardamom Mountain lurking in the background like a huge tidal wave, you will find farmers and water buffalo ploughing their fields, traditional stilted communities with playful children and grazing cows happily sharing the yard, iridescent green rice paddy fields stretching as far as the eye can see, plus 440 kilometres of unspoilt palm fringed coastline. Many of its islands are still untouched resulting in the true castaway experience, although signs of development are starting to creep in. Most visit the south to hit Sihanoukville’s beach or to use as jumping off point to connect to the white sands and warm aqua waters of these undiscovered islands. Sihanoukville town centre has a weird feel and not to everyone’s taste, but offers plenty of shops, ATMs, bars, restaurants and sadly, several casinos. The main hub of activity is centred in or around Ochheuteal Beach and south-side of Serendipity Beach Road. The town’s furthest beach Otres is currently in the throes of rapid development, but still poses a chilled and more attractive alternative to this strange southern town. After our midday arrival, a quick pit-stop in a buzzy open air restaurant seemingly serving every local in town, we headed towards the seafront for our ‘special’ treat. There were squeaking squeals of excitement as she was spotted sat in port, sparkling in all her white glory like a giant oyster pearl plucked from the seas – our very own private speedboat which would take us blasting through the ocean waves, whilst sipping on champagne and deliver us to the private island and luxury retreat of Song Saa - yet again, another of my bucket list dreams. Song Saa Private Island & Foundation Song Saa is the brainchild of Rory and Melita Hunter, who stumbled across these un-spoilt islands whilst sailing through the Koh Rong Archipelago in an old wooden fishing boat. They stopped at a tiny island and got chatting to a local family who after impromptu lunch, asked if they would like to buy the island for $15,000 US dollars and the rest is history. This laid back retreat consisting of 27 one or two bedroom villas is spread over 2 small islands and blends into its natural surroundings beautifully. Just imagine shaded areas with daybeds set on white sandy beaches, over water, ocean view or jungle villas each with their own private pools, huge comfortable 4 poster beds, glass fronted bathrooms with tropical jungle or ocean views plus bar and restaurants offering 360-degree views of nearby islands, crystal clear seas, fishermen in long tail boats heading home with their daily catch amongst scarlet sunsets and you’ve got the picture. Each spacious villa, with private decks, daybeds and plunge pools, are equipped with natural fixtures of drift wood, exposed sandstone and wooden floors giving a sophisticated but rustic finish. Ensuite bathrooms have huge sunken bathtubs with some overlooking the ocean, double sinks, spacious open air rain showers stocked with plenty of bathroom amenities for your pampering needs. Ocean View Villas are set on the islands water’s edge and come with views of the sea which stretch as far as the eye can see, a small patch of private beach and small outdoor dining area. Jungle Villas are positioned slightly hillside amongst tropical rainforest and offer either sunset or sunrise ocean views. Over Water Villas are reached via open wooden walkways and offer steps straight down in to surrounding aqua seas. For family or friends travelling together, there are five palatial villas - two sat over the water, two within the jungle, and the most luxurious of all - the Royal Villa enclosed in a sheltered corner which comes with its own private jetty and chef to hire. The resorts stilted Vista Lounge and Restaurant comes equipped with huge comfortable sofa areas for cocktails, sunsets and stargazing over the rippling ocean waves. Lunch and dinner menus offer a mix of modern European and Cambodian fine dining, whereas casual offerings of pizza etcetera can be had from their Driftwood Bar on the beach. For those special moments, one can request for tables to be set in any secluded areas around the resort. We had our evening’s BBQ of grilled meats and fish, salads and desserts, set on the beach with surrounding fire lit lanterns, whilst watching the sky turn from blue, to many shades of crimson, pink and amber. It’s one of those “I need to pinch myself moments” which shall stay with me for a lifetime. The resort offers many activities from guided snorkelling tours, kayaking in nearby mangroves, picnics on deserted neighbouring islands, sailing, water skiing and diving, to a vast range of spa treatments and Buddhist inspired rituals. There’s plenty to keep one actively entertained in between those long leisurely days of relaxing within this chic, tropical hideaway. Song Saa also has its own foundation which is a non-profit organisation established in 2013 to protect the habitats of the Koh Rong Archipelago and welfare of its communities. Its foundation has launched a broad range of conservation and humanitarian projects that go way beyond the borders of this archipelago and have grown to become distinguished coastal marine NGO, helping to protect the environment and its local people.

22 August 2017

Cambodia, tightly sandwiched in-between the ever-popular Thailand and Vietnam, is a region sadly overlooked by many of today’s travellers. This wonderful country is full of the gentlest of people wearing the biggest of smiles, beautiful landscapes and undiscovered southern islands like those of Thailand 20 years ago, and certainly has more to shout about than just the spellbinding temples of Angkor. It’s always sat highly on my bucket list, so I was thrilled when given the opportunity in June 2017 to join our destination specialist on a road trip from Siem Reap to the southern coast, with 12 agents from around the world. June is considered low season which can be subject to intermittent downpours, but with plenty of sunshine thrown in and fewer temple visitors than those found during peak season, so makes the perfect time to grab a getaway bargain. I fell totally under the spell of this ancient, forgotten land of many untouched wonders, so only fair I share its magic and some of my favourite highlights over my next four blogs: • Siem Reap, Cambodia – Mighty Angkor Wat, Hikes, Phare Circus & Vespa Street Tours (Part 2) • Cambodia Village Homestay, Countryside Bike Rides & On the Road to Phnom Penh (Part 3) • Cambodian Southern Coastline and Untouched Islands (Part 4) • Cambodia’s Captivating Countryside, Sleepy Riverside and Coastal Towns (Part 5) Shinta Mani Club I stayed for my first few nights at the beautiful boutique hotel of Shinta Mani, in the heart of the city’s leafy French Quarter. It is sat within a calm oasis with the lovely aroma of burning jasmine oil wafting throughout the hotel's rooms and walkways. My second-floor Deluxe Room was stylishly designed with Khmer art, polished floors, a super-sized comfy bed, plasma TV with surround sound, a vast walk in wet room with rain shower, and a large balcony. The shaded pool area is set within a gorgeous courtyard making it a great place to relax, but sun worshippers do not despair - guests can make use of their larger, sun kissed pool and gardens at their sister hotel Shanti Mani Resort sat opposite. Their breakfast offering is plentiful with an a la carte menu and selection of fresh fruits, meats, cheeses, yogurts and cereals. Khmer and international dishes at their in-house restaurant Korya are imaginatively delicious, and same with their cocktails. The hotel has its own spa offering various treatments including facials, body treatments, and manicures with prices starting from 45 dollars. I sampled their in-house massage which was excellent. Service throughout the hotel is faultless, from well trained, friendly staff all wearing the biggest of smiles. Shinta Mani means ‘good heart’ or ‘to do good things’, which the hotel is doing in abundance. A percentage of each guest’s room rate is donated to the Shinta Mani Foundation, and goes way beyond just donating to the local football team - it truly seeks to improve the lives of the Siem Reap community. For example, the hotel brought in dentists and assistants from around the world to provide dental care, at no additional cost, to 750 locals. I applaud you Shinta Mani – so many could learn from your drive and concept, as not only do you offer a heavenly retreat in the heart of the city, but huge commitment to provide a better future for those who would certainly lead a bleaker existence without you. Introductions and Phum Baitang I awoke on day 3 with nervous excitement, as today the touring would begin and introductions would be made with my unfamiliar travel buddies. Firstly, I met our host and great destination specialist Chris from EXO and our fantastic guide Pierre, who would be with the group throughout our road trip. We made our way to our next hotel base for three nights whilst we toured and sampled some of the highlights of Siem Reap, and boy oh boy was I excited, as I’d been drooling over this unique retreat for years. Phum Baitang, meaning ‘green village’, is in a league of its own. The resort lies in the countryside some 10-15 minutes outside the city centre and only a short hop from the airport. This eco-chic hotel is sat within a sprawling landscape of eight hectares of rice paddy fields, wooden walkways and even houses, with its own family of water buffalo. The resort owners at Zannier Hotels wanted to create a retreat which gives the feeling of a traditional Khmer village, and I feel they have done just that. This stunning Zenlike resort offers two bars, two restaurants, a spectacular 50-metre swimming pool, a large spa and well-equipped fitness centre. There’s a kids’ club offering complimentary babysitting between 10am and 9pm. The service is fantastic and offered again with the heart-warming Cambodian smile. There are two room categories - Terrace Villas spanning 50 square metres or Pool Villas with 80 square metres of space. Each villa contains the same beautiful rustic interiors of wooden furnishings, natural stone bathrooms with fantastic sized baths, huge walk-in showers of polished plaster and those all-important complimentary touches of luxury bath products, slippers, robes, night time pillow treats which one would expect from a hotel of this standard. As night falls, the resort's wooden walkways are subtly lit, prompting mother nature’s orchestra to come alive with sounds of croaking frogs, singing cicadas and harking geckos. It’s truly a magical haven and makes the perfect retreat after a hard, hot day of touring the temples. Bayon Temple At the hotel’s open-air reception, swift introductions were made before we hit the steets in a convoy of seven ‘remorks’ (similar to the Thai ‘tuk tuk’) which zoomed towards the enchanting ancient city of Angkor Thom. This city is surrounded by an 8-metre high wall, drawing a perfect square. We entered through the ancient south gate, and were immediately hit by its impressive stone carved with elephants and four giant faces, as we walked to the exact centre of the city, and the famous Bayon Temple. This 12th century masterpiece is a study in grandeur, well-known for its 54 towers with enigmatic faces representing the 54 provinces of the Great Khmer Empire. Ta Prohm We continued to Ta Prohm, built between the mid-12th to early 13th centuries. Ta Prohm is unique in that it has been left largely as it was found; overgrown by jungle trees and vines, with many parts of the temple crumbling to the ground. This makes the ‘Tomb Raider Temple’ one of the most picturesque and memorable of the Angkor temples. Angkor Thom Moat & Gondola Next up, and what better way to finish off touring of these magnificent temples, than with a rewarding gondola cruise, on the peaceful moat surrounding the compound of Angkor Thom, whilst feasting on Khmer canapes and sipping on chilled champagne. A magical and very chilled way to end one’s day as you watch the sun go down.