Wisdom, Spirituality & Sustainability in Kerala

Coconut palms bob their heads over tranquil brackish waters bedecked with clusters of lily pads; the occasional engine of the canoe is the only noise to be heard above bird calls and friendly greetings from residents living their lives on the backwaters of Kerala.

What are your first thoughts about India?  A burgeoning population? Poverty and Delhi Belly? Cricket, perhaps?   While this may be true across much of India, Kerala is a perfectly gentle introduction to this beautifully diverse country.

Kerala can boast the lowest positive population growth rate in India; the highest literacy rate (97%) and the highest life expectancy at 77 years.   This is a state which is rightly proud of its people, its landscape and its history.

Primarily hosted by CGH Earth group of hotels – luxury heritage hotels and nature wellness centres -  as well as the Windermere Estate, over 10 nights I visited 5 properties in very different topographies, all with a deeply environmental and sustainable focus. 

I believe that human encounters and connection are what bring a trip to life, allowing you to understand their existence, their landscape, their traditions, and their beliefs through their generosity, their curiosity and their humour.

In deep gratitude to them all, allow me to introduce some of the main characters from my trip to you:

Keith Hallegua – Above a fabric shop in the old streets of the seaside Fort, lives the last remaining Jewish citizen of Cochin.  Cochin has experienced Portuguese, Dutch and British influence and like many great trading ports around the world, the town became a melting pot of different cultures, including a considerable Jewish community which has thrived here since the time of King Solomon in Israel. The oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth, the Paradesi Synagogue built in 1568, can be visited here, as well as the Church of Saint Francis, built in 1503 and where Vasco de Gama was initially buried in 1524. But since the creation of Israel, the population has shrunk, leaving one remaining Jewish citizen, aged 76, and with no descendents. Efforts are being made to preserve this heritage.

Medha – the eagle-eyed naturalist at the serene Windermere Estate, walked me through a misty, organic (pesticides have been shown to alter a frog’s DNA) cardamom plantation, spotting frogs, elephant dung, millipedes & lichen, as well as native plant life.  Originally from just across the state line of Tamil Nadhu, she now lived high up in the majestic Western Ghats, where people come to escape the heat on the coast. She was rightly proud of her education at The Naturalist School, an institution where students learn about conservation and how best to align it with responsible tourism, fostering a deeper understanding of our natural world.

Ginesh – at Spice Village in the highlands of Periyar in Thekkady, I had my most personal encounter.  My maternal grandfather managed tea estates in this area for 40 years, until the early 70s, and was a keen birdwatcher and conservationist.  He played a large part in the development of nearby Periyar Tiger Reserve, and Mr Ginesh couldn’t have been more generous with his time and his resources to help me to discover a bit more about my grandfather’s legacy. Familiar with my grandfather’s work, we were as delighted as each other to meet and to hear the other’s stories.

Dr Sunil - Back down at sea level and in the backwaters of Kerala, by Kumarakom, I had a chance encounter with the guru Dr Sunil, the lead doctor at the Ayurvedic Centre at Coconut Lagoon .  With his measured speech, his intuitive gaze and holistic wisdom, Dr Sunil took a pulse diagnosis and read my doshas (Pitta Vata in case you’re wondering – think of a fairly fiery constitution!).  He advised me on how I can best bring more balance to my physical and emotional character with meditation, introducing cooling and bitter foods into my diet and other Ayurvedic treatments. I can personally recommend the deeply calming Shirodhara treatment, where warm oil is continuously poured over 'The Third Eye’, restoring your mind, your nervous system and your intuition.

At my final stop, the Marari Beach resort just south of Cochin, I got chatting to the local women who brought in a daily Chai Wallah (tea cart) with delicious homemade snacks every afternoon. These women were funny, vibrant and full of laughter, dressed in colourful saris and with red bindis on the Third Eye to access blessings and wisdom.

Words don’t really do justice to the people or the landscape- if you are curious about India, do give me a call for some expert advice. This country is vast and diverse, and is best discovered with the guidance of a responsible tour operator.