Cambodian Southern Coastline and Untouched Islands (Part 4)
Depending how much time you have, one can either fly within 2.5 hours from Phnom Penh to the main costal region of Sihanoukville or drive, as we did for approx. 4.5 – 5 hours where you’ll be rewarded with beautiful scenery and the mutterings of WOW at every given turn.
Cambodia’s southern provinces offer dramatic contrasts to the flat central regions and provide keen photographers with those perfect picture opportunities, which would make most professionals green with envy. In this fertile region, overlooked by the Elephant and South Cardamom Mountain lurking in the background like a huge tidal wave, you will find farmers and water buffalo ploughing their fields, traditional stilted communities with playful children and grazing cows happily sharing the yard, iridescent green rice paddy fields stretching as far as the eye can see, plus 440 kilometres of unspoilt palm fringed coastline. Many of its islands are still untouched resulting in the true castaway experience, although signs of development are starting to creep in.
Most visit the south to hit Sihanoukville’s beach or to use as jumping off point to connect to the white sands and warm aqua waters of these undiscovered islands. Sihanoukville town centre has a weird feel and not to everyone’s taste, but offers plenty of shops, ATMs, bars, restaurants and sadly, several casinos. The main hub of activity is centred in or around Ochheuteal Beach and south-side of Serendipity Beach Road. The town’s furthest beach Otres is currently in the throes of rapid development, but still poses a chilled and more attractive alternative to this strange southern town.
After our midday arrival, a quick pit-stop in a buzzy open air restaurant seemingly serving every local in town, we headed towards the seafront for our ‘special’ treat. There were squeaking squeals of excitement as she was spotted sat in port, sparkling in all her white glory like a giant oyster pearl plucked from the seas – our very own private speedboat which would take us blasting through the ocean waves, whilst sipping on champagne and deliver us to the private island and luxury retreat of Song Saa - yet again, another of my bucket list dreams.
Song Saa Private Island & Foundation
Song Saa is the brainchild of Rory and Melita Hunter, who stumbled across these un-spoilt islands whilst sailing through the Koh Rong Archipelago in an old wooden fishing boat. They stopped at a tiny island and got chatting to a local family who after impromptu lunch, asked if they would like to buy the island for $15,000 US dollars and the rest is history.
This laid back retreat consisting of 27 one or two bedroom villas is spread over 2 small islands and blends into its natural surroundings beautifully. Just imagine shaded areas with daybeds set on white sandy beaches, over water, ocean view or jungle villas each with their own private pools, huge comfortable 4 poster beds, glass fronted bathrooms with tropical jungle or ocean views plus bar and restaurants offering 360-degree views of nearby islands, crystal clear seas, fishermen in long tail boats heading home with their daily catch amongst scarlet sunsets and you’ve got the picture.
Each spacious villa, with private decks, daybeds and plunge pools, are equipped with natural fixtures of drift wood, exposed sandstone and wooden floors giving a sophisticated but rustic finish. Ensuite bathrooms have huge sunken bathtubs with some overlooking the ocean, double sinks, spacious open air rain showers stocked with plenty of bathroom amenities for your pampering needs.
Ocean View Villas are set on the islands water’s edge and come with views of the sea which stretch as far as the eye can see, a small patch of private beach and small outdoor dining area. Jungle Villas are positioned slightly hillside amongst tropical rainforest and offer either sunset or sunrise ocean views. Over Water Villas are reached via open wooden walkways and offer steps straight down in to surrounding aqua seas.
For family or friends travelling together, there are five palatial villas - two sat over the water, two within the jungle, and the most luxurious of all - the Royal Villa enclosed in a sheltered corner which comes with its own private jetty and chef to hire.
The resorts stilted Vista Lounge and Restaurant comes equipped with huge comfortable sofa areas for cocktails, sunsets and stargazing over the rippling ocean waves. Lunch and dinner menus offer a mix of modern European and Cambodian fine dining, whereas casual offerings of pizza etcetera can be had from their Driftwood Bar on the beach.
For those special moments, one can request for tables to be set in any secluded areas around the resort. We had our evening’s BBQ of grilled meats and fish, salads and desserts, set on the beach with surrounding fire lit lanterns, whilst watching the sky turn from blue, to many shades of crimson, pink and amber. It’s one of those “I need to pinch myself moments” which shall stay with me for a lifetime.
The resort offers many activities from guided snorkelling tours, kayaking in nearby mangroves, picnics on deserted neighbouring islands, sailing, water skiing and diving, to a vast range of spa treatments and Buddhist inspired rituals. There’s plenty to keep one actively entertained in between those long leisurely days of relaxing within this chic, tropical hideaway.
Song Saa also has its own foundation which is a non-profit organisation established in 2013 to protect the habitats of the Koh Rong Archipelago and welfare of its communities. Its foundation has launched a broad range of conservation and humanitarian projects that go way beyond the borders of this archipelago and have grown to become distinguished coastal marine NGO, helping to protect the environment and its local people.
