Siem Reap, Cambodia – Mighty Angkor Wat, Hikes, Phare Circus & Vespa Street Tours (Part 2)
The following morning it was an early start to beat the crowds at the mighty Angor Wat, which for many, is one of the major highlights in Southeast Asia. The sheer magnitude and intricate workmanship put into the construction of this fascinating city, which in the early 12th century took over 37 years to build, undoubtedly blows everyone’s mind.
Suryavarman II was the King of the Khmer Empire from 1113 AD – 1145- 1150 AD and the builder of Angkor Wat, which he dedicated to the Hindu God Vishnu. Inside the temple, the walls are covered with stone carvings and bas-reliefs depicting Hindu mythology and the wars which he fought during his reign. Whilst walking through the grounds and temple enclosure which still contain much of a magical feel, I found myself transported back in time with the help of our fabulous tour guide Pierre, who simply brought back everything to life with his in-depth knowledge and fantastic storytelling.
Next, we headed to Kbal Spean which is one of the earliest Hindu pilgrimage sites in Cambodia and overlooked by many tourists. A 3km trek up the hill through dense jungle which I was dreading, will reward you with the “River of 1000 Lingas” and some remarkable stone carvings of Hindu gods, animals and other symbols in the river bed. During the rainy season, you can enjoy a refreshing dip in the waterfall. Once back at the base of the hillside, we were rewarded with a picnic of popular Khmer dishes of satay, fragrant curries and steamed rice delicately wrapped within banana leaves and sat in a neat woven box. Yum!
After lunch, we headed to the “gem” of the Angkor area, the pretty temple of Bantaey Srei, also known as the “Citadel of the Women”, which remains as one of the best-preserved temples in Cambodia. It displays some of the finest examples of classical Khmer art and is famed for its remarkable fine bas-reliefs. Banteay Srei is unique in that it is constructed of pink sandstone, which is seen nowhere else in Angkor. The temple complex was surprisingly quiet and hassle-free, mid-afternoon, enabling our group to explore the temple grounds at a leisurely pace, before heading back to Phum Baitang to freshen up for our evening’s entertainment.
Khmer banquet and ‘Phare, the Cambodian Circus’
After a superb Khmer banquet and inspection at the stunning Belmond La Residence D’Angkor hotel, sat in the heart of Siem River on the banks of the tree lined river, our host escorted us to the evening’s entertainment of ‘Phare, the Cambodian Circus’. This was not your usual circus!
Phare perfectly combines dance, theatre and circus acrobats to live music which intertwines to tell unique Cambodian stories both traditional and modern. This fun and energetic show is suitable for all ages, with breath taking acts from its artists who are all graduates of the Phare Pomleu Selpak - a NGO school and professional arts training centre in Battambang which again is helping the country’s street kids towards a better future.
The PPSA was founded in 1994 by nine young Cambodian men returning home from the refugee camp after the fall of the Khmer Rouge. At the camp, they took drawing classes and found art to be a powerful tool for healing, and so the school was born. Another heartfelt story which touched the group deeply, concluding a memorable show which left everyone feeling very upbeat.
Lakeside cookery class and Siem Reap hotel recommendations
Our final day in this charming, ancient city began with a visit to the countryside and nearby local market to buy produce needed for our half day cookery course. This took place in a stilted house overlooking a huge, tranquil lake. The fruits of our labour consisted of local delicacies of king prawn salad and fragrant amok fish curry accompanied with steamed rice, which were devoured within a matter of minutes and tasted great.
Mid-afternoon included a quick stroll through the tourist area in the city, then on to a few nearby hotels for inspection. A couple of favourites worth mentioning which won’t break the bank are the 4* Viroths and The Aviary which both sit in the heart of Siem Reap. Both hotels are modern and stylish with beautifully appointed rooms and great range of onsite facilities.
Vespa street food tour and mingling with the locals
For our final evening, we were collected at the hotel by a squad of 14 Vespas to whisk us towards a local street food market, and engage on a tour especially created for those with a sense of adventure.
From leaving the touristy Pub Street comfort zone and after a refreshing Vespa ride, night had fallen and we found ourselves in the middle of the hustle and bustle of street vendors inviting us to taste a seemingly endless variety of unusual foods and fruits that offer a spectacular diversity of flavours and colours. They were not for the faint-hearted, but all I can say is the crispy crickets, frogs’ legs and snails with garlic sauce all tasted surprisingly delicious.
The next stop of the tour was a typical local grill where tasty BBQ snacks and drinks are served. Into the night, we moved to yet another part of Siem Reap with numerous night spots which are frequented by locals. Our destination was a speciality restaurant hidden in between bars and nightclubs. This restaurant boasts a local menu that really stood out in quality and variety. A selection of their best specialties was served, accompanied by drinks and local music performances.
If like me, you prefer holiday experiences which steer clear of the main tourist trappings, then I could not recommend this 3-4 hour tour highly enough, as it keeps you well fed, hydrated whilst giving an authentic insight to the ways of local life.
